ANH Greedo Blaster DT-12 Build

[Corellianexports]

A member recently asked me how to build up one of my kits so I decided to create a "build" thread.
As a friend once told me, "There's many different ways to the finish line." Parts can simply be glued to the pistol or bolted. This is simply an example of how I've decided to "tackle" this project.

This is actually my third build. I built two prototypes a similar way.

As with all props and even model kits, it's always one thing at a time until it's time to paint and perform a final assembly.
It's all about making sure the parts fit in place first, otherwise if they're already painted and have to be modified after the fact, the end result
is a awful looking prop.

Barrel Extension Install:

I'm starting with a slight modification to the pistol, which is a replica KJW Ruger MKI. The original barrel comes straight off by removing
a tiny, Allen head set screw at the very bottom, edge. Here's a typical Ruger with a replacement, barrel extension:



Use a ruler to mark the brass rod a little over 2" from the end (about 2 1/16"). Use a hacksaw to cut off the 2".




Use a belt sander to round off the edges of the brass tube. A file and/or sandpaper can also be used. Test fit the barrel extension. Be sure to turn the part so that the notch is near the top of the barrel:



Once fitted in place, use a small tool to tighten the set screw near the bottom edge of the barrel extension.

Up next, replacing the grips.

 

[Corellianexports]

I found a rare, chrome KJW Ruger for this build. It's sturdier, but it's basically the same as the black version.
I'm using some real, early MK1 grips:



One of the problems with the replica pistol is that the threading for the grips actually sticks out of the surface, so if it's removed, there's nothing to hold the grips in place. The replica grips are just above the pistol in this photo:



I'm measuring a depth of about 1/16" that needs to be removed from the hole areas on the real grips:



I used a mill to remove the plastic material, but a dremel or X-acto knife could be used as well:




The grips came with some really nice gun bolts, which are slightly smaller than the original bolts (metric) but since the threaded holes are spaced closer together than the grip holes, they work just fine.



Up next, adding the disks/discs to the grips.

 

[Corellianexports]

I found a guy on Etsy who makes some really nice, Imperial Disks:




I checked with ACE Hardware and found some very nice gun screws (8-32) about 1" in length. I cut these down to about 1/2" and drill through the disks using a lathe, but a simple drill press or hand drill will do. The depth of the outer hole for the screw head is a tough call since the original prop was painted black. I just used the top step as a reference for the depth and viola:



Left Side:


Up next, fitting the trigger cover.

 

[Corellianexports]

I'm using a resin trigger cover. The cover is a little too snug, so I've used an X-Acto knife and some 220 gritt to clean up the center section, inside of the cover. I also fill in a tiny hole with some modeler's puddy:




Done:


Next is fitting the rear sight:



I used a small file and a large X-acto knife to expand the indentation on the Ruger. Typically, this area is a tight fit so that the part doesn't move around, but since this version of the Ruger is chrome coated, the area is definitely undersized.



Next is the flash hider installation. I was lucky enough to get the real deal from Reade Models years ago. The actual part name is "Veron Tom-Tit Dummy Radial Engine Cylinder". There's a thin piece of plastic about halfway, inside the part that needs to be drilled out. Here's a bottom view of it:



And a top view:


I use a 5/8" drill bit to hollow out the part. It isn't a snug fit, but some contact cement will help keep it in place one we're ready for final assembly:



Up next, assembling the side rod parts and getting them installed.

 

[Corellianexports]

One of the nice things about the side rods is that they already come pre-assembled, but the "stylus" or "rectangular" parts that are attached to the other side of the rods are another story.
I suppose these parts could just be glued on, but it's already known that the parts were used with a very small set screw so that's what I'm going to use with these. The smallest set screw I could find is a 4-40 which is about 1/4" long. The hole on the side of the parts needs to be drilled and then tapped:



As small as the set screw is, it still needs to be shortened, so I use a small pair of pliers and a belt sander to cut down the screws.
The screws can only be shortened so much, so to help get them installed, I mill out a small amount of material on the rod. A drill bit or file will also work. Be sure to line up the parts with the holes on the side rods. This part of the assembly can be put off until the rods are actually attached to the side of the pistol to make sure that the parts are perfectly vertical. We'll see why in the next post:



The set screws should be facing downward once attached to the pistol:



Up next, attaching the side rods to the pistol.

 

[Corellianexports]

This is probably the most difficult part of the build. If the threaded holes aren't in perfect spot, the rods won't sit correctly. It's one reason why I've opted for doing the first installation on the left side, since this side will mostly be hidden once I display it.

To make things easier, I've pre-installed the set screws (10-32) to help get an idea where the holes should go, which are just above the indentation line, above the trigger area:




I double checked the reference photos and noticed that the very edge of the stylus part lines up with the edge of the pistol barrel, where the barrel extension begins:




I use a drill press and 1/16" drill bit to mark the holes before using the final drill bit.
A 10-32 tap is used to thread the holes on the side of the pistol:

 

[CWalker67]

Wow, great build. Very nice.

 

[Corellianexports]

With the left side done, I remove the left side rod to help stabilize the pistol before drilling similar holes on the right side.

One key thing to remember is to make sure that the holes line up with each other, perfectly.
Here's the right side with the rod installed:



Here's a forward shot. Notice that the stylus part is perfectly vertical. This is what we want:



Up next, installing the sight and the pontoon part with electronic connectors.

 

[Corellianexports]

To help give me a better idea where the sight should be located, I'm going to install the "Pontoon" (one of the original Veron Tom-Tit radial engine parts) with electronic connectors first.

I use the reference photos to position the "Pontoon" part on the pistol. I'll use a spacer and a small, wood screw for the install:



I use a punch and a ruler to mark a hole for the wood screw:




I've marked the hole in the center of the part. Something I forgot at this point is that the electronic connectors actually need to be installed off-center if they are going to be bolted in place, but more on that later.

The hole is drilled through the part and then used to mark the hole on the pistol. This is the "Ejection port" or "oval" area on the pistol:




The part and the spacer is sanded, lightly. I use a little super glue to attach the spacer.
The hole in the pistol is threaded with the wood screw and then I use some pliers to hold the screw against a belt sander to shorten it a bit:



I use a center, counter sink tool to partially hollow out one side of the Coax Reducers. This will allow some space so that they will fit over the head of the wood screw. With my previous prototype, I did this with only one of the reducers and then milled out part of the other reducer so that the screw head would simply sit inside of the reducer so that the other reducer could simply be threaded in place using some threaded rod. However, because I've already centered the screw, I'm going to mill out some space on both reducers and simply glue them in place when it's time for final assembly:



To help line up the two parts, I'm using a standard, 1/4" threaded rod, about 1.5" long:



To make the final install easier, I use a little contact cement to connect the threaded rod inside one of the reducers:

 

[Corellianexports]

Today I'm moving on to the sight part.

Rather than just drill two holes straight through the part and bolt it to the pistol, I'm going to drill a couple of holes, halfway through and then glue the part to the pistol.

To make things easier, I'm going to space the holes 1" apart. Looking at the reference photos, the sight appears to be centered behind the pontoon part, so this is where I mark the holes, using the part as a reference:



The smallest thread rod I have is 4-40, so this is the thread I'm going to use to tap the holes with. The sight part and the mount are drilled with the same spacing of 1":



Here's the final installation:



The parts fit snuggly on the pistol, so only a drop of glue will be needed for final assembly.

With all the parts ready for assembly, it's now time to clean every thing with some denatured alcohol and get all of the parts hung up, ready for painting:



Up next, painting and final assembly.

 

[Corellianexports]

I used Rust-oleum satin black paint on all the parts with the exception of the Reade Model (Veron Tom-Tit Radial Engine) parts.
Three coats of paint, sprayed from different angles does the trick.

Since the pistol is already in the correct position, I decide to start the final assembly by gluing the cap in place with a little contact cement:



After 24 hours, I begin assembly again by starting with the sight parts. The rear sight is installed first.
The small, piston rods from Reade Models, are bolted into place on the main sight:



I use a tiny amount of contact cement on the edge of each threaded rod before installing the completed, main sight:



I can tell just by handling the parts that they're not completely dried, so I'm going to let them set for at least a few more days before completing the final assembly.

 

[Elevader]

This is great. I just got all my parts and I’m starting my build.

 

[Corellianexports]

The next step is to re-install the barrel extension and the right side grip with the disk. I used a reference photo to position the notch on the disk:




Before installing the "pontoon" piece, the side rod is installed with two, set screws. This is because the "pontoon" part sits on top of the side rod.

The "pontoon" part is simply bolted with a very small, Philips wood screw. A small, combo screw driver comes in handy for this assembly. I think I found this one in a local surplus store:



The Coax reducers are put together with the small piece of 1/4 threaded rod. I use a small amount of contact cement inside the reducers and on the threaded rod. The reducers fit around the head of the wood screw, so I also apply some of the contact cement around the edges of the wood screw head. I use some painters tape to keep the parts in place while the cement dries for 24 hours:

 

[Corellianexports]

Next up is the left side parts and the flash hider installation.



Because the side rods parts are painted as one piece, there's no need to glue anything.



The painters tape is removed from the parts and I double check the placement of the flash hider against some of the reference photos. It's about an inch from where the pistol barrel ends and the extension begins. I use a small amount of contact cement inside the flash hider and install it on the barrel extension:



The side rod is a little loose, so I use a few drops of super glue on both set screws and wiggle the part a bit to make sure the glue gets between the threaded holes and the sets screws. The prop is left to dry over night.

Here's a few "as built" photos of the blaster, completely assembled:







Up next, weathering and final photos.

 

[Corellianexports]

Most of the weathering is actually on the side rods, but there's a little on the disks, BNC extenders and the pistol itself.
I used all the reference photos I have but the most useful one is probably the Jawa pic and the screen cap with Solo.
I start with 200 gritt sandpaper, hitting the edges:




I use a large X-acto knife to add scratches to the side rods and pistol. At one point I went back and forth between the 220 grit and the X-acto knife:



Some of the weathering on the pistol is a tough call because some of the bright edges are actually just light reflections from the camera off what's actually a semi-gloss, black surface, so I stick to areas that would normally be worn down, like the trigger and hammer areas.
There aren't any good, close-ups of the left side, so I basically weather it similarly to the right side:



One photo shows some weathering on the tip of the barrel extension:





Some top and bottom photos:


...and finally after 8 months, I get fill my empty display case.




..which goes right next to my Han Solo "Greedo Killer":

As usual, it was a group of rpf guys that researched this prop and it's various parts, so as always, thanks goes out to you guys for your input. Special thanks goes out to Frank Bono for his help with the trigger guard and to Chris Trevas for his research on the stylus parts which really helped catapult this prop replica into existence.

 

[chubsANDdoggers]

Nice work Corellianexports! Beautiful

 

[Pedro]

Great work Vince! I love this blaster, need to finish up a few projects and get to work on mine! I'll definitely be referencing this thread, so thanks for sharing. I guess I missed it - Did you turn the barrel extension? I didn't even realize it was like this until I saw yours.

 

[history Hunter]

Hi, I'm working on a Greedo Blaster build myself, and need some advice. For the side pistons (whatever you call them), am confirming that they should be silver? Any technical assistance (accuracy) would be welcomed!

 

[mrwax]

Everything's black but weathered a bit.

 

[history Hunter]

Okay, so I thought they MIGHT be black. Why do people paint the side pistons (whatever they are called) silver? I know I'm not always screen accurate with my builds, often preferring a little bit of customization. But for this one, I wanna be as screen accurate as possible.