Almost done! My metal Blade Runner blaster...

KarlBud420

Well-Known Member
Well, after months of sitting in its box, the motivation struck me to finally get working on this when I heard about the PropSummit BR blaster building contest.

It was painted with real gun blue and Rustoleum high gloss enamel for the black parts.

So without further ado, I proudly present my (almost) finished all metal BR blaster.

First, a couple of overall shots of both sides:

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The back end:

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The hammer area with extra space drilled out:

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The front end probe:

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And with probe retracted via the cocking lever:

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The underside of the cylinder cover was Dremeled out to reveal the cylinder per Karl's excellent WorldCon photos. That's a real Weaver 344 scope knob that I scored from eBay a while back before the supply got real scarce. :cool

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The slide stopping groove was also Dremeled out although I didn't drill out the molded screw since I was having trouble finding button head hex screws in town:

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Added the little screws on the ammo clip with the little grey disc made out of Aves Apoxie Sculpt:

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Ammo clip magnetic attachment system:

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LEDs lit up (the most nerve wracking part of this build as I had never done any electronics work, but I got that sucker to light up and then figured out the switch system, hah!)

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Modified front trigger (drilled groove and cut down the front tab as shown in the photos):

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I still need to stop by the hardward store for a large hex screw for the bottom of the ammo clip (I'm still using the phillips head included with the kit) and I had hoped to find a proper sized switch box to go in between the LEDs on the right side, and may get around to custom sculpting one from Aves, but for now I'm content.

I'm on the fence about the white wires too. Luckily, they're easily added and could also be a removable option if need be.

As everyone else has said, it's a heavy bugger! I thought it was bad before I put the bullets in it, but after, it's a real beast.

A big thank you to Karl "PhasePistol" Tate for making a great discovery at WorldCon and taking the reference photos that make all the BR fans drool! You da man, Karl!

Thanks for looking!

Bruce
 
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What kind of switch controls the lights since you haven't installed the side switch yet?

Looks great!

Nick
 
Yet an0ther STELLAR build.

The hits just keep on coming. :thumbsup :thumbsup
 
That is up there with the best WC Hero conversion I have seen. Very nice work. I have been debating keeping my Sid silver finish, but this is making me change my mind. Awsome job.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone! This thing was great fun to build and I'm glad you all like it. :$

I've been a member here for a couple years but haven't had the opportunity to show anything off, but I think I may have to spend more time with my hobbies.

This indeed is the SidKit from Italy.

Before he decided to extend his run to 270 pieces, I purchased 2 of them and requested #s 249 and 250 in the hope of building an idealized one and an accurized one. Now that I've finished this one, I'm thinking of selling it to finance another prop purchase and building the second one to be just like this.

The LEDs are activated by a small hidden switch that came with the kit. It sits at the rear of the ammo clip, just in front of the trigger guard. It's a pretty ingenius solution from SidKit that keeps the clean look of the gun. Plus, if I have to scratch build a dummy switchbox, it won't detract from the look I was going for.

I've also got a question: what does everyone think about those white wires? I've been going back and forth on whether to add them, and would like to hear some yeas and nays to maybe push me in one direction or the other.

Thanks,
Bruce
 
I'd say leave off the white wires. For one thing they look crappy (trust me on that). Also they are cut off and just hang there (or are glued in place, not sure)... I imagine they were originally there to power the green LEDs or something, with the wires running down Harrison Ford's arm to a power pack somewhere.

Regarding the swtich, well the real prop actually HAS a big on-off switch! So to be brutally accurate you'd have to have it.

But if you're leaving off the wires I guess you can leave off the switch. But personally I'd keep the switch and lose the wires.

- k
 
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EXCELLENT build and paint job, like all the accurising youve done. how did you do/change the dile on the side ?????

cheers :thumbsup
 
I'd say leave off the white wires. For one thing they look crappy (trust me on that). Also they are cut off and just hang there (or are glued in place, not sure)... I imagine they were originally there to power the green LEDs or something, with the wires running down Harrison Ford's arm to a power pack somewhere.

Regarding the swtich, well the real prop actually HAS a big on-off switch! So to be brutally accurate you'd have to have it.

But if you're leaving off the wires I guess you can leave off the switch. But personally I'd keep the switch and lose the wires.

- k

Yeah, I am kind of leaning towards leaving the wires off, but the trick with the switch is finding one that is the proper size, has a black body with a white slide, and preferably has the "ON/OFF" text already there.

Quite a tall order apparently, as I looked up and down and all around the net for a usable version with no success.

If anyone has a lead they'd like to share, I'm all ears!

EXCELLENT build and paint job, like all the accurising youve done. how did you do/change the dile on the side ?????

cheers :thumbsup

Thanks for the kind words, Stonedog7563.

For the dial, I was lucky enough to win an auction from eBay for a Weaver 344 scope at a reasonable price (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=260106329310&rd=1&rd=1). I had been waiting for a scope under $30 and my patience finally paid off. It was very lucky as I've only seen a handful of 29S and 344 scopes for bid since then.

I then drilled a hole in the center of the molded screw with a 1/8" bit leaving a perfectly sized hole in which the Weaver knob can thread itself into.

I hit the molded screw with a Dremel sanding drum until it was worn about halfway down, smoothed and evened out the wear, and viola, you have the perfect surface to mount the replacement.

The SidKit provides a great build right out of the box, but it also gives you a great starting point to go nuts and really have some fun!

Bruce
 
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