The 48th Ronin - thank you for the clarification and the photo!
DL-44 FDM c96 & MGC replicas…
- Thread starter chubsANDdoggers
- Start date
JamesM242
The 48th Ronin is on point as the locked frame should theoretically always sit flush but the truth is.. not all do. Trying to figure out just how this part can be “accurately“ replicated led me to studying many pictures of a c96 mausers, including MGC’s as well (since we know they were also used for building these DL-44 film props). What I noticed was not all locked frames lined up flush as one would think. Some stuck up just a bit. So OK it doesn’t need to be fully flush for it to be accurate was the 1st observation when trying to figure out what can be done when replicating this part. But as I always do I just don’t study actual mausers when it comes to replicating these props. More importantly I turn to the actual film props as much as possible for all these details.
First heres a couple pics of the c96 mausers I studied and you can see how the locked frame sits..
So once I noticed not all locked frames are flush I next looked at the actual props themselves. These three original film used props were all built from MGC replicas. One from Star Wars (Greedo Killer), one from TESB (Hoth) and the last from ROTJ (Auction Blaster). The pictures speak the loudest but again I was pleasantly surprised by my findings as not all are fully flush. It’s subjective obviously but mostly noticeable on the Hoth blaster (3rd down). I also own two MGC’s myself which where also helpful..
But the most important prop is obviously the Hero from SW which was built on a real c96 and not an MGC. There isn’t a lot of available pics of this blaster but the couple that are available definitely leave this locked frame and how it sits up for discussion. As you can see one can make a case for it not being flush either. Now if it is not flush it‘s probably only 0.015 to 0.020 of an inch sticking out at most. The thickness on my design is 30 thousands of an inch if I remember correctly. I honestly didn’t think it would print at that thickness on a MJF printer but to my surprise it did..
Also because the Denix is more inline to an MGC than a real c96 I used that as a template when designing this part. I did kind of blend both mausers (c96 & MGC) together when creating it and took some liberties for it to be scaled properly. For example the Denix safety is not where it would be on a real c96 or even an MGC so I had to get a little creative there so each side would be symmetrical. Keep in mind the Denix hammer in these below pics have been replaced with my modifed c96 hammer, also the whole top of the Denix itself has been slid forward to better replicate that of an actual mauser.
Long story short, not all locked frames are truly flush as we can see and there is room for discussion on just how flush they were on the actual props themselves. Which justified joyfully the creation of these slip fit locked frame sticking out. Once I noticed all that I went full steam ahead in getting these designed up. And my first impression is they fit the bill pretty nicely even with a sloppy (rushed) paint job..
The 48th Ronin is on point as the locked frame should theoretically always sit flush but the truth is.. not all do. Trying to figure out just how this part can be “accurately“ replicated led me to studying many pictures of a c96 mausers, including MGC’s as well (since we know they were also used for building these DL-44 film props). What I noticed was not all locked frames lined up flush as one would think. Some stuck up just a bit. So OK it doesn’t need to be fully flush for it to be accurate was the 1st observation when trying to figure out what can be done when replicating this part. But as I always do I just don’t study actual mausers when it comes to replicating these props. More importantly I turn to the actual film props as much as possible for all these details.
First heres a couple pics of the c96 mausers I studied and you can see how the locked frame sits..
So once I noticed not all locked frames are flush I next looked at the actual props themselves. These three original film used props were all built from MGC replicas. One from Star Wars (Greedo Killer), one from TESB (Hoth) and the last from ROTJ (Auction Blaster). The pictures speak the loudest but again I was pleasantly surprised by my findings as not all are fully flush. It’s subjective obviously but mostly noticeable on the Hoth blaster (3rd down). I also own two MGC’s myself which where also helpful..
But the most important prop is obviously the Hero from SW which was built on a real c96 and not an MGC. There isn’t a lot of available pics of this blaster but the couple that are available definitely leave this locked frame and how it sits up for discussion. As you can see one can make a case for it not being flush either. Now if it is not flush it‘s probably only 0.015 to 0.020 of an inch sticking out at most. The thickness on my design is 30 thousands of an inch if I remember correctly. I honestly didn’t think it would print at that thickness on a MJF printer but to my surprise it did..
Also because the Denix is more inline to an MGC than a real c96 I used that as a template when designing this part. I did kind of blend both mausers (c96 & MGC) together when creating it and took some liberties for it to be scaled properly. For example the Denix safety is not where it would be on a real c96 or even an MGC so I had to get a little creative there so each side would be symmetrical. Keep in mind the Denix hammer in these below pics have been replaced with my modifed c96 hammer, also the whole top of the Denix itself has been slid forward to better replicate that of an actual mauser.
Long story short, not all locked frames are truly flush as we can see and there is room for discussion on just how flush they were on the actual props themselves. Which justified joyfully the creation of these slip fit locked frame sticking out. Once I noticed all that I went full steam ahead in getting these designed up. And my first impression is they fit the bill pretty nicely even with a sloppy (rushed) paint job..
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chubsANDdoggers - a thorough and much appreciated post, sir! I dig your attention to detail and always enjoy it when you share your research! THANKS!
I was hoping to get this onto a fully modified Denix ANH Hero build as that’s always the gold standard but I’m a LONG ways away in completing one of those at the moment.
But I do have a Luke Bespin thats been modified quite a bit already. Also I wanted to rework the grips so I decided to do that as well as add this new part. The gluing was a very tedious, delicate time consuming process in order to keep it from getting to messy. At first I honestly didn’t like it as it seems to obvious and didn’t really seem blend well at first sight. But over a short period of time it’s really started to grown on me a lot..
But I do have a Luke Bespin thats been modified quite a bit already. Also I wanted to rework the grips so I decided to do that as well as add this new part. The gluing was a very tedious, delicate time consuming process in order to keep it from getting to messy. At first I honestly didn’t like it as it seems to obvious and didn’t really seem blend well at first sight. But over a short period of time it’s really started to grown on me a lot..
This build is now the farthest I’ve taken a Denix. With the added lock frame detail I also reworked the grips as well to go along with all the previous mods a already did to this build over the summer. What do you think? This is my scratch built Luke Bespin Blaster..
chubsANDdoggers, these Denix mods are really outstanding. Well done!
Modified denix in progress..
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I posted this in the hero blaster thread but wanted to share here as well. I think this is about as canon as this blaster can get at the moment for reference..
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Poikilotherm
Sr Member
“I know you are peeking at me” as well
I’ve renamed these my “OCD” builds as I’ve excepted the fact that I can’t stop trying to improve them
But I think I’ve taken it about as far as one can at the moment. This has to be one of the most accurized Denix hero builds there is?? I’ve done over 20 modifications alone to the denix itself (some small, some major), hence.. it’s new name
Still not finished either..
But I think I’ve taken it about as far as one can at the moment. This has to be one of the most accurized Denix hero builds there is?? I’ve done over 20 modifications alone to the denix itself (some small, some major), hence.. it’s new name
Still not finished either..
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