3D printed Obi-wan Lightsaber

Just keep coming back to see this, just amazing. you certainly have made a grand entrance to rpf.
for any one on the fence about 3d printing i think you can now consider them sold. :) Is the ultimaker the best option at the moment?
Questions, questions, questions.
 
Printing the 4 piece design right now! I would love a crack at the full 14 piece model though :)

Soon, I think... I'll post here when it's up somewhere.
I saw the stuff you make in your sig.. Really awesome! I made a mini Thor hammer a while back, I remember referencing some of your stuff.

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This is 3d Printed too, the small one is like 2 inches across.

Just keep coming back to see this, just amazing. you certainly have made a grand entrance to rpf.
for any one on the fence about 3d printing i think you can now consider them sold. :) Is the ultimaker the best option at the moment?
Questions, questions, questions.

Thanks :p

You can check out more stuff I make at Redicubricks | The ridiculous things we make All of that stuff is 3D printed on an Ultimaker. Some are useful, some are just fun. There are currently tons of choices out there for 3D printers. Makerbot Replicators and Ultimakers seem to be the most popular ones right now if you're looking at FDM printers (hot glue gun on CNC). There are others entering the market that use DLP projectors or lasers with photoresins which are higher resolution, but cost more.

For prop type stuff I would recommend FDM machines like the Ultimaker. The build area is large and filament is cheap. Also the end result is much stronger than many other methods of printing. I would recommend the UM2 (1800EU) if you could afford it or want something more user friendly, UM1(1000EU) kit if you're looking for bang for your buck or you're the tinkerer type.

I'm obviously a bit biased since I use UM. :p but objectively the quality seems comparable between the two top dogs, Makerbot and Ultimaker. but UM is Open source, and Makerbot is going the ways of the corporate empire, with introductions of voiding your warranty if you use unapproved filament -or so I've heard anyways. I don't think we need another printer ink industry...
 
I#M not a jedi but your lightsaber looks pretty cool! 3-D printing is the door to a new industrial revolution;-)
 
I'm looking for projects to improve my not so great paint skills, so I am quite liking your site. Look forward to the 14 part kit! I will def be getting that printed and have a shot at painting.
 
I#M not a jedi but your lightsaber looks pretty cool! 3-D printing is the door to a new industrial revolution;-)

I think so. ideally we can melt down our waste plastics, coke bottles etc, and print new things for cheap/free locally while recycling.

Or we just get metal printers cheap enough that we can print ourselves some metal lightsabers. :)
 
Finished printing this morning... The grenade came out fantastic looking! Still need to do some clean up on the emitter face and pommel cubes, then I'll give it some paint and weathering. Printed on a Solidoodle 3 at .1mm using clear ABS. Here it is next to my Roman's AFBB.

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Quick question: How strong is it? Will it break into pieces if it falls to the floor? Is it brittle?

I've never 3D printed anything before, so I'm just wondering.

SB
 
it is only as strong as what it is printed and glued with... i am sure it will survive a drop...it is not hollow plastic...
 
Finished printing this morning... The grenade came out fantastic looking! Still need to do some clean up on the emitter face and pommel cubes, then I'll give it some paint and weathering. Printed on a Solidoodle 3 at .1mm using clear ABS. Here it is next to my Roman's AFBB.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h33/wkevingossett/20140505_221321_zpsntypaqkg.jpg


That's really awesome to see the comparison! I didn't have any parts to reference, so I just kinda winged it from pictures on the internet, I'm glad it looks relatively accurate. Thanks for posting the pic!


Quick question: How strong is it? Will it break into pieces if it falls to the floor? Is it brittle?

I've never 3D printed anything before, so I'm just wondering.

SB


This style of printing is quite durable. You would not be able to crush it in your hands. If you dropped it, it would probably be ok unless it hit a specifically weak part like the lever. But you could probably throw it across the wall and it would fare better than your wall.

And it's adjustable, usually people print with an infill of 20-30%, which means it'll fill the space between the outer wall with a honeycomb or square pattern that's roughly 20% of the volume. This saves filament, keeps the part light, adds a bit of strength and makes sure the top layers have something to sit on.

If you wanted a part that is more durable, you can increase the outer wall thickness and fill to 100% which would make a completely solid part. You could probably run that over with a car. But it would take a long time to print and be quite heavy.

I've made a crossbow that works with just a solid piece as the bow. Like wood however, it is stronger along the 'grain' (or the print layers).


The 'brittle' prints you're probably thinking of are the sandstone ones from shapeways, they are made from fusing powders which would shatter if dropped.


There are no glued parts, it all snaps together.
 
I had a similar question as Steven above

I'm late to the party (I saw posts on facbeook though) and I can't thoroughly express my awe, fanTASTIC job! The 14 piece one is much more enticing, at least to me, and probably a little more reliable considering printing time is chunked. Can you imagine something going wrong halfway up the bottom section? augh - anyways, I love this! great, accurate work and surely something to inspire people :)
 
This is so awesome. here's my build. just got my printer and this was my biggest build. In case anyone is curious how the process looks, it's like Valcrow said a computer controlled very accurate glue gun. here's the grenade being started and about halfway through. the extra material is support material to keep the melted plastic from drooping. the grenade took me about 8 hours. I was pleasantly surprised at the accuracy and how clean it came out. I'm still trying to remove the support material from the grenade, mine got really set in there so it didn't come out easy.

big thanks, I've always wanted an Obi!

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I gambled on my grenade and printed without support knowing what a mess it would be to clean up. Fortunately it came out perfect!
 
Thanks everyone!

There probably should have been more instruction in hindsight, but it is designed to be printed without supports including the grenade part. If you look really really closely, the angle of each row of grenade squares is less steep on the overhanging side than the top side if you orient it the way it's printed. enough to make a bit of a difference when printing the overhangs, but not quite noticeable enough visually as a flaw. You shouldn't experience any printing issues unless you're running too hot or fast.

There are a few areas where it's accuracy sacrifices for the ease of printing in the 4 piece, that's the part where the pummel attaches to the bolster thingie, the buttons, clampy lever thing, the connection between the grenade and the clamp and the emitter is angled deeper. That's where the 14 part one comes in, it corrects all of those flaws for print, but only the most discerning crowd would really notice (I'm sure I'm in the right place for that :p). It also allows for mods if you wanted to put in lights or a crystal chamber or something.

I had a similar question as Steven above

I'm late to the party (I saw posts on facbeook though) and I can't thoroughly express my awe, fanTASTIC job! The 14 piece one is much more enticing, at least to me, and probably a little more reliable considering printing time is chunked. Can you imagine something going wrong halfway up the bottom section? augh - anyways, I love this! great, accurate work and surely something to inspire people :)

Thanks! I think it's the Ultimaker crowd, but they seem to prefer to have 30 hour single prints rather than having to setup multiple print jobs... I'm using the UM1, with no heated bed so I'm not particularly afraid it'll burn down the house if I leave it overnight.

I like lots of pieces mostly because the result is often better since you can orient the parts the way that prints the best. (buttons for instance) But it does require a bit more design time.
 
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