1/350 Klingon Bird of Prey - Improving the AMT Kit

Here's a little more of the work that I've done on the neck. This concentrates mostly on the shaft that runs underneath it.

So, I already spent some time studying this area to get a feel for the elements that were needed, what I could make and what I could use from the kit and the Green Strawberry upgrades. I've already shared in an earlier post some of the details I'd a added to the GS resin shaft. Trouble was that after more study of the studio model I wasn't feeling very happy with the way everything looked in comparison.

Things came to a head when I tried out one of the PE parts against the model. A small rectangular plate just behind the PE radiators under the neck.
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According to the studio model it should sit in-between the wider cylinder of the shaft on the left and the 'V' shaped strut to its right. There wasn't enough room for it though.
Neck side on port.jpg


Might not seem like too big a deal but this little test triggered a realisation that the proportions of the GS resin shaft weren't right.
The two 'V' struts are bigger than they should be and wider apart. The rectangular parts on the shaft that the V's points are connected to are too far apart. There are also some issues in my placement of the hanging radiator parts, I think I should have put these further forward rather than gluing in the same spot as the removed kit parts.

Initially I did try cutting up the shaft a bit more to widen the spot where that rectangular plate goes. But this just pushes those PE Vs further right and even more out of position. Here's my first try at putting it right anyways.

Cutting out the resin shaft.
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Drilling the larger cylinder to accept a 2.5mm styrene rod.
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Gluing in a wider piece of styrene. All the white circles top left are my attempts to cut the end of the styrene rod nice and square.
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All back together but still not happy as the Vs are no where near the correct position.
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Okay, literally back to the drawing board. I opened the studio model pics on my computer, measured the length of the neck on my model kit, then sized the images so they were 1:1 scale. Next I drew over the top the various shapes I was going to try and replicate. Not everything will be in the right place on the kit as the radiator parts and the slotted pieces in front of them are too far aft. However I was prepared to let that go as the work to sort it did not balance with how minor a difference it is.

Here's the drawings I made. I then removed the image from the background and printed out the in scale line drawings to work against.
KBOP neck details port and starboard.jpg


The first part I rebuilt was the double V struts. They have a U beam profile so to make this I laminated three thin strips together. One at 0.5mm x 0.25mm with a piece at 0.75mm x 0.25mm either side.
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Here's a profile view to get a better idea.
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These were next laid over the drawing, miter cut to the correct size with a razor blade before being glued together. They were then attached to the base part of the strut and detailed with some brackets I could see in one of the ref pics.
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I'll pick this up again in the next post.
 
After sorting those V struts I moved onto the shaft. From my scale drawings it looked like I needed a 3mm tube for the main shaft and a 5mm tube for the larger diameter section between the grills near the front. I didn't have any styrene in those diameters but did have some aluminium tube instead.

I started with the larger 5mm diameter piece. It looked a little too wide so I thinned it down a bit first. I chucked it into my drill and whilst it was running I wrapped sandpaper around and ran it back and forth. It didn't take much off but it felt better proportioned after doing so.
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I then cut a piece to the correct length as per my drawing. From the ref pics it looked like one end was hollow and the other filled and slightly stepped. To achieve this look I cut a smaller 4mm dia piece and CA glued it inside of the 5mm piece. It was about half the length of the larger piece and positioned slightly proud of one end.
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As it's shorter the other end is left open so there'll be a gap between it and the smaller shaft when installed.
PXL_20230923_163245357.jpg


This was then CA glued into position over the 3mm dia shaft. One end of the 3mm shaft was also bevel cut to fit against the hull.
PXL_20230923_163753956.jpg


Between the two rectangular boxes that the V struts attach to there is a flat plate that wraps around a portion of the shaft.
To replicate this I cut a strip of 0.25mm styrene sheet to the correct width, wrapped it around the shaft and CA glued it in place.
It was then trimmed down to the correct height either side of the tube.
PXL_20230923_164121353.jpg


I also reshaped the PE radiator grills at this point. From the ref it looked like they are uniform thickness flat plates at an angle rather than tapered wedges. You can also see a little of the detail I've invented in this area, I don't have any good ref under the neck so having to get creative here.
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I then looked at the larger diameter piece as there appear to be some fine ridges around this on the ref. The GS resin piece features these as indentations rather than raised and they're quite wide. I ended up trying to do this with 0.2mm wire, stripped out from some hook up wire.
PXL_20230924_091107951.jpg


I don't have many pics of this process as I've got to be honest, it didn't work out too great. I was finding that the CA glue was just not bonding to the aluminium tube. The wire has such a small surface area that I don't think there was enough to bond. I was also finding that any styrene detail I added would not glue well either. I tried a lot of things to help over a few sessions but ended up too frustrated and decided to get some styrene rod and start again.

The Plastruct styrene rod I purchased was wider than needed at 3.2mm dia. I thinned this down a little with the drill and sandpaper method I'd used earlier.
PXL_20231002_164132009.jpg


It was then bevelled at one end and cut to length.
PXL_20231003_111159234.jpg


I then trimmed a piece of the 4.8mm tube I'd bought to make the larger diameter section as before. The tube slid fit over the smaller dia piece so I didn't need to make a shim inside, just drilled out one end. The black marker on the edge was used as a guide to keep the edge thickness consistent.
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For the other end I wrapped a couple of pieces of thin styrene strip to create the lip I'd seen in the ref pics. They were thinned to be more in scale with fine sandpaper.
PXL_20231003_111257622.jpg
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I then fashioned the small plate between the rectangular boxes. Same method as before, cutting a strip of 0.25mm styrene to width. This time I pre-shaped it over a thinner dia metal tube and then glued in place using EMA Plastic Weld.
PXL_20231003_112428459.jpg
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A thin strip was also glued onto one edge to match the ref images.
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