1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

[gt350pony66]

Funniest thing, I ordered another set of bells, just knowing I'd destroy them getting them off. So went to just rip them out...and they came off in one piece...all of 'em. So after I stripped the paint off, which by the way didn't go as planned...Citadel is extremely resistant to easy off. I tried the first round and let it sit for 5-10 minutes, scrubbed with the old tooth brush and all I got off was the wash. tried again and let it sit for a half hour...thinned it a bit more but that stuff wasn't coming off like paints in the past. anyway, I decided to just light scrape with the exacto where I need to stick stuff. and here is my progress so far. As stated earlier, there was no way I was going to even get close to what Invar has done with his, but this is better than if I had done nothing. It's really time consuming but it'll look good at the end. Have to admit my greeblie stash is due for refreshing. Thanks again Invar for the inspiration :thumbsup

 

[INVAR]

That looks really damn good to me. Achieves the effect without the ridiculous amount of time, eye-straining and styrene-carving that I put myself through.

But then, I'm a stupid perfectionist when it comes to trying to make this thing look like the ILM ESB model... because well....when you stare at these ILM reference photos long enough - you lie to yourself and say "no problem!".


Then you spend the next 3 months attempting to make the engine section of your model look just like that!

 

[gt350pony66]

Hey thanks my friend! This was about 4 hours Saturday, and about that on Sunday. I think I could have done better had I more appropriate greeblies available. But in all, it's good for who it's for right? I'd forgotten I have a stash of 1/72 WWII armor in the closet, so I'll be bashing a couple of those. They were the 6 to 8 dollar ones and some I have multiple of.
Nothing wrong with striving for perfection, and since this is a grail kit for you, you'd expect no less from yourself, right? I know what you mean about looking at something and going' "I can do that", then later asking myself what I had gotten myself into. But at that point it's follow through. I'm thoroughly impressed with what you've done, and thankful that you posted it for the rest of us to work off of. Between you and Escape, there's a lot I otherwise would not have done to this and I'm glad I saw your work before I got to the point where I couldn't go back and do more :thumbsup

That looks really damn good to me. Achieves the effect without the ridiculous amount of time, eye-straining and styrene-carving that I put myself through.

But then, I'm a stupid perfectionist when it comes to trying to make this thing look like the ILM ESB model... because well....when you stare at these ILM reference photos long enough - you lie to yourself and say "no problem!".

View attachment 779541
Then you spend the next 3 months attempting to make the engine section of your model look just like that!

 

[Escape068]

Great work on the engines. You lucked out that you weren't too far along and was able to add all that detail to them. Sometimes going slow and taking your time gives you the opportunity for all these great upgrades.

Just finished adding some detail to the top of the super structure like you and Omnious did. I may do some to the engines but not sure when I want to tackle that beast. Finished FO for the tower and lit the garbage chute up with an 0805 SMD. Command Tower angle adjusted and all trim around it finished Should have some pictures of all this tomorrow. The magnets holding down the top and command tower worked out great. You can't tell if it's glued or not. Counted and have about 250 holes left to fill with FO. Lots more to do but I think I'm close to passing the half way mark.

I tested the remote and sensors from Model Trains and it works very nice. I think it's 5 levels on brightness and it remembers the last setting. I placed sensors behind the plastic of the model and the signal passed through with no problem however the sensors are very sensitive and pick up IR signal very easily and can be hard to isolate. May have to place one sensor on each side and shield the back of the sensor so it only works when you point the remote directly at the sensor. For me not a big deal.......going to set brightness once and leave it and use my other controller to turn things on and off. Only using this to set the brightness.

Hey thanks my friend! This was about 4 hours Saturday, and about that on Sunday. I think I could have done better had I more appropriate greeblies available. But in all, it's good for who it's for right? I'd forgotten I have a stash of 1/72 WWII armor in the closet, so I'll be bashing a couple of those. They were the 6 to 8 dollar ones and some I have multiple of.
Nothing wrong with striving for perfection, and since this is a grail kit for you, you'd expect no less from yourself, right? I know what you mean about looking at something and going' "I can do that", then later asking myself what I had gotten myself into. But at that point it's follow through. I'm thoroughly impressed with what you've done, and thankful that you posted it for the rest of us to work off of. Between you and Escape, there's a lot I otherwise would not have done to this and I'm glad I saw your work before I got to the point where I couldn't go back and do more :thumbsup

 

[gt350pony66]

thanks brother! :thumbsup I think I can make it a bit better with some bashed stuff, but still won't be near as good as Invar's. It is a lot of work, 8 hours in just what I've done so far, but I reckon I'm committed to it now. I suppose I'd better look into sensor placement myself somewhere in the engine panel now, for the engines, and scout a place for the other for the rest of the lights. I was under the impression that the sensors tripped only in direct line of sight...I'm glad you said that. I know now to take those same precautions so it will function as desired. I'ma thankin' ya. I'm sure glad I have all you guys around to teach me this stuff. :thumbsup like I say, I'm still taking smaller steps with electronics, and now, obviously getting the add-ons to another level. I actually thought I was just past the half way mark till I hit the brakes to do the engine panel, but so glad I did. Looking forward to seeing those pics my friend :thumbsup

Great work on the engines. You lucked out that you weren't too far along and was able to add all that detail to them. Sometimes going slow and taking your time gives you the opportunity for all these great upgrades.

Just finished adding some detail to the top of the super structure like you and Omnious did. I may do some to the engines but not sure when I want to tackle that beast. Finished FO for the tower and lit the garbage chute up with an 0805 SMD. Command Tower angle adjusted and all trim around it finished Should have some pictures of all this tomorrow. The magnets holding down the top and command tower worked out great. You can't tell if it's glued or not. Counted and have about 250 holes left to fill with FO. Lots more to do but I think I'm close to passing the half way mark.

I tested the remote and sensors from Model Trains and it works very nice. I think it's 5 levels on brightness and it remembers the last setting. I placed sensors behind the plastic of the model and the signal passed through with no problem however the sensors are very sensitive and pick up IR signal very easily and can be hard to isolate. May have to place one sensor on each side and shield the back of the sensor so it only works when you point the remote directly at the sensor. For me not a big deal.......going to set brightness once and leave it and use my other controller to turn things on and off. Only using this to set the brightness.

 

[Escape068]

Definitely test out placement and see how it works before you close it up. I had varying degrees of success moving the remote around and having one sensor on each side of the ship. If your using 2 then one placed in the back where the engines are and on in the front would give you the most distance between them. Aiming the remote past the back should only turn the back on and aiming past the front should do the same and not interfere with each other.

thanks brother! :thumbsup I think I can make it a bit better with some bashed stuff, but still won't be near as good as Invar's. It is a lot of work, 8 hours in just what I've done so far, but I reckon I'm committed to it now. I suppose I'd better look into sensor placement myself somewhere in the engine panel now, for the engines, and scout a place for the other for the rest of the lights. I was under the impression that the sensors tripped only in direct line of sight...I'm glad you said that. I know now to take those same precautions so it will function as desired. I'ma thankin' ya. I'm sure glad I have all you guys around to teach me this stuff. :thumbsup like I say, I'm still taking smaller steps with electronics, and now, obviously getting the add-ons to another level. I actually thought I was just past the half way mark till I hit the brakes to do the engine panel, but so glad I did. Looking forward to seeing those pics my friend :thumbsup

 

[INVAR]

I'ma thankin' ya. I'm sure glad I have all you guys around to teach me this stuff. :thumbsup

We were blessed to have Masters like Robert/Robiwon help us along with advice and suggestions. They set the bar and it is the least we can do to carry on his legacy of helping one another out in this hobby. I've never been to a model show as so many here have been with their works, but I'm happy to share what things I am doing to please myself in building these kits.

I'm still taking smaller steps with electronics, and now, obviously getting the add-ons to another level.

That's where my patience is truly going to be tested, in the electronics. Mainly because on Robiwon's encouragement I've only lit one model before I began work on this Zvezda. So I am jumping from a 1/29 scale X-wing kit with only engines and some cockpit lights, to something with remotes, yards of FO and various LEDs to light thousands of micro-drilled holes and recessed lighting areas and landing bays.

Intimidation does not quite adequately express how I feel about getting into that, but there are enough pros and masters here to help us along when we run into issues.

My main worry is going to be on the primer and paint. I think I'm going to go the ultra-fine Tamiya rattle can primer followed by a good off-white enamel fine spray versus using my airbrush because I mainly use acrylics, and plan to only use the airbrush for aztec enhancements in the hull plating and recessed areas the rattle cans do not get into well. I recall Robert did his entire first Zvezda build that he sold using just rattle can enamels and nothing else. I was amazed.

Of course the most amazing thing about Robiwon was his speed in doing these kits. I don't think it took him more than 3 months to go from build (including scratch-built areas) to lighting, paint, base and final. It took me that long just to greeblie the engine area with custom cut styrene bits and brass PE from a 1/700 battleship.

I think it will be safe to say your build will likely be finished well before mine, so I may get to be inspired by and mimic some of the things you manage to pull off.

 

[gt350pony66]

Copy that, will do. Thanks again buddy :thumbsup

Definitely test out placement and see how it works before you close it up. I had varying degrees of success moving the remote around and having one sensor on each side of the ship. If your using 2 then one placed in the back where the engines are and on in the front would give you the most distance between them. Aiming the remote past the back should only turn the back on and aiming past the front should do the same and not interfere with each other.

 

[gt350pony66]

I agree completely, Robert was a gift. I too was a bit intimidated by modern lighting, but the more I do it...I want to light everything possible. Escape has a good grip on the electronic, he's planned some amazing things for his build. Though I won't be going quite as far as he is, he's given me some great tips and direction for what I am doing,as I'm sure you've seen on his posts. When you get to the lighting stage, don't hesitate to ask anything, though my skills aren't what Escape's are I'm certain he'd be happy to field any questions as well. I'll also say that I'm not the greatest with paint and finish, but I am getting better. This is so much fun, and I love the collaboration :thumbsup

We were blessed to have Masters like Robert/Robiwon help us along with advice and suggestions. They set the bar and it is the least we can do to carry on his legacy of helping one another out in this hobby. I've never been to a model show as so many here have been with their works, but I'm happy to share what things I am doing to please myself in building these kits.



That's where my patience is truly going to be tested, in the electronics. Mainly because on Robiwon's encouragement I've only lit one model before I began work on this Zvezda. So I am jumping from a 1/29 scale X-wing kit with only engines and some cockpit lights, to something with remotes, yards of FO and various LEDs to light thousands of micro-drilled holes and recessed lighting areas and landing bays.

Intimidation does not quite adequately express how I feel about getting into that, but there are enough pros and masters here to help us along when we run into issues.

My main worry is going to be on the primer and paint. I think I'm going to go the ultra-fine Tamiya rattle can primer followed by a good off-white enamel fine spray versus using my airbrush because I mainly use acrylics, and plan to only use the airbrush for aztec enhancements in the hull plating and recessed areas the rattle cans do not get into well. I recall Robert did his entire first Zvezda build that he sold using just rattle can enamels and nothing else. I was amazed.

Of course the most amazing thing about Robiwon was his speed in doing these kits. I don't think it took him more than 3 months to go from build (including scratch-built areas) to lighting, paint, base and final. It took me that long just to greeblie the engine area with custom cut styrene bits and brass PE from a 1/700 battleship.

I think it will be safe to say your build will likely be finished well before mine, so I may get to be inspired by and mimic some of the things you manage to pull off.

 

[gt350pony66]

didn't get much done last night. a couple more pipes, tiny one at the bottom and the other long upper elbow pipe, then started on the upper panel stuff.

 

[gt350pony66]

a whittle moe progress on the starboard upper section, still a couple plates and piping to do. No where near the same zip code as Invar's. much of my troubles here are lack of good and appropriate greebs...but, I'm doing what I can with what I have to work with. And lets be quite clear, if I hadn't seen Invar's months of very impressive hard work, heck I'd never taken this step. He's made this relatively easy to follow his work. Raise a glass for Invar! :cheers:thumbsup

- - - Updated - - -

I'm anxious to do the center section actually, mostly piping so it should go much easier

 

[Escape068]

Looking fabulous.......What size rods, tubes and anything else you are using for this? I need to buy some if I'm going to attempt this upgrade.

What size and color SMD/Pico are you using for the 6 lit up areas along the trench (3 on each side)?.....I'm thinking 0402 (1005) in cool white.......

View attachment 779841View attachment 779842 a whittle moe progress on the starboard upper section, still a couple plates and piping to do. No where near the same zip code as Invar's. much of my troubles here are lack of good and appropriate greebs...but, I'm doing what I can with what I have to work with. And lets be quite clear, if I hadn't seen Invar's months of very impressive hard work, heck I'd never taken this step. He's made this relatively easy to follow his work. Raise a glass for Invar! :cheers:thumbsup

- - - Updated - - -

I'm anxious to do the center section actually, mostly piping so it should go much easier

 

[gt350pony66]

hey there man, thanks...not as good looking as Invar's to be sure, but like he said, the effect is there. the trench LED's are just more of the 2mm whit I used for the main hangar and the tie hangars, that's all I have and when I bought the 2mm I got like 40 of them so I'd have extra. I've only done the tie hangars so far, so I have to examine some images to determine where to place the other trench LED's.
As far as Evergreen rod, I think I bought everything from .35mm up, the tube and rod assortment pack and pretty much .35mm and up of half round, at 3.50 a pack I just grabbed whatever I thought I needed and took a color phot of Invar's posted pics with me to the hobby shop for reference. Then just scrounging through scraps and bashing a few low dollar 1/72 armor kits for greeblies. I gotta tell you, Invar has some fantastic looking greebs, and I knew I wasn't going to be able to get in the same ball park so I'm doing the best I can without breaking the bank on it. :lol

Looking fabulous.......What size rods, tubes and anything else you are using for this? I need to buy some if I'm going to attempt this upgrade.

What size and color SMD/Pico are you using for the 6 lit up areas along the trench (3 on each side)?.....I'm thinking 0402 (1005) in cool white.......

 

[Dingbat]

Hi gt
I signed up to this forum after lurking along time and seeing your build log. The work you and INVAR have done on this kit has given me alot of ideas for my own build. Im a couple of steps behind you guys: I just finished drilling all the windows and have started filling gaps and rescribing lost panel lines on the top and bottom two halfs. Im excited to start stuffing fibers. I also bought the hanger upgrade, shield generators and the Falcon from shapeways. Nice stuff.
Keep up the great work and and the pics rolling.

 

[gt350pony66]

Welcome, our new friend...glad you've decided to join us. Scribing panel lines...now that's something I'd never thought about. Quite clever and fore thinking. Too late for me on that as I've already painted and weathered. What size FO are you gonna use? Are you happy with the Shapeways generators? I bought them as well, but then I got the 3D Falcon version which are far better IMO. Have you seen those?

Hi gt
I signed up to this forum after lurking along time and seeing your build log. The work you and INVAR have done on this kit has given me alot of ideas for my own build. Im a couple of steps behind you guys: I just finished drilling all the windows and have started filling gaps and rescribing lost panel lines on the top and bottom two halfs. Im excited to start stuffing fibers. I also bought the hanger upgrade, shield generators and the Falcon from shapeways. Nice stuff.
Keep up the great work and and the pics rolling.

 

[gt350pony66]

btw... Invar, Escape and the other guys are the true smart guys. I may have started the thread but the other fellas here are the brains of the operation...I'm just feeding off of them thumbsup

Hi gt
I signed up to this forum after lurking along time and seeing your build log. The work you and INVAR have done on this kit has given me alot of ideas for my own build. Im a couple of steps behind you guys: I just finished drilling all the windows and have started filling gaps and rescribing lost panel lines on the top and bottom two halfs. Im excited to start stuffing fibers. I also bought the hanger upgrade, shield generators and the Falcon from shapeways. Nice stuff.
Keep up the great work and and the pics rolling.

 

[INVAR]

a whittle moe progress on the starboard upper section, still a couple plates and piping to do. No where near the same zip code as Invar's. much of my troubles here are lack of good and appropriate greebs...but, I'm doing what I can with what I have to work with. And lets be quite clear, if I hadn't seen Invar's months of very impressive hard work, heck I'd never taken this step. He's made this relatively easy to follow his work. Raise a glass for Invar! :cheers:thumbsup

I be blushing... thank you for the compliments. But don't go cheering yet because I haven't gotten to the painting or electronic stage yet. I have plenty of time to screw this up. Those stages of adding the fiber and electric and painting is months away yet in all probability with work and babysitting the grandkids twice a week. I do have the forward trench sections done on both the port and starboard sides. I now have the larger back hull halves trenches to greeblie before I can start on the wedding cake sections of the superstructure. That may be easier because the hard part of creating the hangar bays and all the trench work and engine sections will be done.

What size rods, tubes and anything else you are using for this? I need to buy some if I'm going to attempt this upgrade.

I got a variety pack of Evergreen rods, then ordered .030 round rods, .020 square and also .020 round rods, 1.5MM square rods (used to raise the trench height) and also for greeblies. 1/16" hollow round rods and thin flat sheet styrene sheets.

What size and color SMD/Pico are you using for the 6 lit up areas along the trench (3 on each side)?.....I'm thinking 0402 (1005) in cool white.......

I'm doing 4 on each side in 1 mm Picos - WARM WHITE - not cool. I'm trying to capture the ILM 8 footer and the cool whites are in the engines and hangar bays while the fiber is mostly warm-yellowish light with bits of red here and there.

My only concern is that I only have 1 AA battery power pack for the inside hull to light the whole beast. I may need to look into getting another power pack and finding a way to hook them together to light the entire ship using the remote sensor. Of course I could get another sensor remote and put the engines on 2 AAs and the Fiber and hangar bays on another cell and sensor. Still thinking I want to turn his beast on using only one remote.

Well, I have months of greeblie-ing left to go before I get hot and heavy into electronics.

 

[Escape068]

Hi Invar....Your build should be an inspiration to anyone that is hesitant to start one of their own to just jump in and get started. Yours is fantastic with all the scratch built enhancements.

What voltage are you powering the LEDs with?

I have a suggestion if you don't want to install a power jack on the hull and power from a wall transformer what about a 12V DC 9800mAh Super Rechargeable Portable Li-ion Battery pack. It probably will fit inside the hull and would last a day or 2 on one charge if just powering 5-10 LEDs. You said you were making the top section removable like mine so that may be a good option. It takes about 16 hrs. to charge and you can get smaller rated ones. The 9800mAh is the highest I seen in this model. The smaller rated ones will also be smaller in size. I have 2 of them so as I'm using one I have the other one charged. This is also great if you are going to take your kit to a show and need to power it. Most palaces don't have outlets close by to the tables. The unit is approx. 122x85x38mm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ECO-12V-DC...114634&hash=item5b31e2ca19:g:G2cAAOSwx2dYJX5B


Thanks to gt350pony66 and you for telling me the sizes of the tubes and rods for the engine section

I be blushing... thank you for the compliments. But don't go cheering yet because I haven't gotten to the painting or electronic stage yet. I have plenty of time to screw this up. Those stages of adding the fiber and electric and painting is months away yet in all probability with work and babysitting the grandkids twice a week. I do have the forward trench sections done on both the port and starboard sides. I now have the larger back hull halves trenches to greeblie before I can start on the wedding cake sections of the superstructure. That may be easier because the hard part of creating the hangar bays and all the trench work and engine sections will be done.



I got a variety pack of Evergreen rods, then ordered .030 round rods, .020 square and also .020 round rods, 1.5MM square rods (used to raise the trench height) and also for greeblies. 1/16" hollow round rods and thin flat sheet styrene sheets.


I'm doing 4 on each side in 1 mm Picos - WARM WHITE - not cool. I'm trying to capture the ILM 8 footer and the cool whites are in the engines and hangar bays while the fiber is mostly warm-yellowish light with bits of red here and there.

My only concern is that I only have 1 AA battery power pack for the inside hull to light the whole beast. I may need to look into getting another power pack and finding a way to hook them together to light the entire ship using the remote sensor. Of course I could get another sensor remote and put the engines on 2 AAs and the Fiber and hangar bays on another cell and sensor. Still thinking I want to turn his beast on using only one remote.

Well, I have months of greeblie-ing left to go before I get hot and heavy into electronics.

 

[INVAR]

What voltage are you powering the LEDs with?

3 Volt LEDs. They achieve the brightness I need. The folks at Model Train Software said that the one AA battery pack should run 50-75 3 Volt LEDs. I'll probably be running about half of that.

 

[gt350pony66]

with the exception of a tiny box greeb and a piece of round stock yet between the smaller bells, the starboard side is as good as I can get it. I mis-calculated...it took nearly a week to do just this much and I thought I'd have ALL of it in a week. So this is a testament to the time and effort Invar put in creating his. he says 3 months and I don't doubt that for two seconds. The other photo here is what I call, Invar's Guide to Great Greeblies thumbsup