1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by SteveStarkiller, May 7, 2012.

  1. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hi Gang,

    Time for the "End of the Weekend Update"! Part I of V

    It was a different type of weekend this time around as I have begun taking video of what I'm doing. It eats a little bit of time but I'm hoping with the new YouTube channel everything will work out! :)

    Anywho... PART I: Corridor Ring

    I continued work on the corridor ring
    IMG_20181215_090739_zpsokalwmtj.jpg

    I added more styrene
    IMG_20181215_091801_zpsfmikazve.jpg

    Super glue is good stuff... until it doesn't work and you need tape to help as it cures
    IMG_20181215_091828_zpsnqpjiwjl.jpg

    Lots of tape
    IMG_20181215_091942_zpschbosisr.jpg

    I then added filler
    IMG_20181215_120030_zpscu7nl3pb.jpg

    IMG_20181215_120035_zpsstjh68gm.jpg

    IMG_20181215_120038_zpsxkkcmq4r.jpg

    What a mess!
    IMG_20181215_120042_zpswum4bqi8.jpg

    HA... more tape
    IMG_20181215_125348_zpsmb8zcafz.jpg

    IMG_20181215_125356_zpsj1kvagim.jpg

    Seriously... the Super Glue just didn't want to adhere. I have to pick up some of that "Super Glue Actuator" spray. I hear its good stuff!
    IMG_20181215_125403_zps3dwodpmw.jpg

    PRIMER!
    IMG_20181215_131734_zpsdvspmbhk.jpg

    IMG_20181215_131740_zpsgmbagp1b.jpg

    I laser cut some new details
    IMG_20181215_082644_zpsvqpotyvi.jpg

    Once everything is sanded smooth and the edges are all clean I'll adhere the trim back in place
    IMG_20181215_131813_zpsct3b4hvu.jpg

    So much filler and sanding
    IMG_20181215_134428_zpsg4fh0qwt.jpg

    IMG_20181215_134434_zpsye1bayhn.jpg

    IMG_20181215_134758_zps4vef6u4b.jpg

    IMG_20181215_134805_zpsggb19spl.jpg

    Still fits!
    IMG_20181215_151735_zpse7zoupwn.jpg

    PART II - Below
     
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  2. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    PART II: Corridor Ring (Cont'd)

    Filler
    IMG_20181216_114150_zpsn1baq5wx.jpg

    Filler and tape
    IMG_20181216_114154_zpssaldxzj2.jpg

    It's funny... a majority of this ring wont even be seen because of the ring pads and or its facing away from view ;)
    IMG_20181216_114159_zpswu7y32gs.jpg

    First coat of primer after all the sanding
    IMG_20181216_131022_zpseqcrtpsu.jpg

    YUCK! Still lots to do
    IMG_20181216_131027_zpscspli1uz.jpg

    IMG_20181216_131036_zpsxzltplmz.jpg

    Not to worry... I'll make it smooth :)
    IMG_20181216_131040_zpsida34nzk.jpg

    PART III - Coming!

    The first video for the YouTube channel is in the works so as I always say... Stay Tuned!
     
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  3. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hey BK,

    Oh not to worry! The guys in TX are working the canopy now. Once its ready, I'm going to step in and begin adding all the greeblies and details to include the canopy boxes. Here are a few photos of the finished boxes...

    20151201_181342_zpsmqetayhs.jpg

    20151201_181354_zpsz2rz4o8v.jpg

    20151201_181405_zpsi7h0dsry.jpg

    20151201_181417_zpsqhyr0lwi.jpg

    Can't wait to see these turned over and permanently mounted in place!
     
  4. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Looking forward to seeing it!
     
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  5. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Once again, still my favorite build thread on the RPF!
    Great work!
    Curious? regarding the Falcon corridors , how would you go about the square pads and rectangular pads the line the corridor walls and rings?
    Do you know how they were done on the original set?
     
  6. BruceKenobi

    BruceKenobi Active Member

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    WOW!!!!!!! Those look amazing!! in Solo they are used to deploy the landing gear, can't find another use in the OT, but these look so great!!!
     
  7. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hi Gang,

    PART III: The Cockpit Entrance Corridor Walls

    I designed and laser cutting these pieces
    IMG_20181215_150003_zpshp9l0gnn.jpg

    I'm going to permanently adhere the corridor wall frame pieces together
    IMG_20181215_150022_zpsgdxlqqt5.jpg

    IMG_20181215_150440_zpswaer0rlo.jpg

    The new laser cut pieces will overly the joints
    IMG_20181215_150503_zps08mwqrbx.jpg

    I have to make sure everything is aligned
    IMG_20181215_151707_zps3kckaejw.jpg

    IMG_20181215_151714_zpshfbimzxd.jpg

    IMG_20181215_151725_zpsddytevq8.jpg

    Let's have some fun!
    IMG_20181216_131716_zpsyqikmaru.jpg

    I cleared out Wally World of their "For Sale" signs and began to skin the corridor frame
    IMG_20181216_140945_zpsloslgh8u.jpg

    Han is very particular about who he lets in the cockpit! ;)
    IMG_20181216_140950_zps1gardnrl.jpg

    Trim to fit
    IMG_20181216_143340_zpsbzp3nnjr.jpg

    IMG_20181216_143344_zpsqoostp6b.jpg

    IMG_20181216_143349_zpskhpx6b3e.jpg

    I then laser cut these parts
    IMG_20181216_144518_zpsu8jzbe0n.jpg

    Its difficult to see but they are guides points on the bottoms of the frame to help with mounting into the floor - there are 6 points in all (3 ea side)
    IMG_20181216_144530_zpskhtmajv7.jpg

    There's the famous blue tape!
    IMG_20181216_153938_zpsziwfeevy.jpg

    IMG_20181216_153943_zpsxtnsl41t.jpg

    IMG_20181216_153951_zps3l3j0mkx.jpg

    The edges of the maint console fit perfectly!
    IMG_20181216_154036_zpstqgqfrqi.jpg

    More to Follow! :)
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2018
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  8. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    WOW! Thanks, GG! That means a lot! Thank you. :)

    Re: the smaller ring pads - check out the link. This walks you through the process I used to create the pads :)

    1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build

    I'm still not sure how we'll approach the larger pads. We might create one and then make a mold and create the rest from fiberglass. Still working on different ideas.

    We think the originals were in fiberglass. A few years back I chatted with someone who was on the TFA set and they told me the Falcon pads, for TFA, were in fact fiberglass. We might take that approach.
     
  9. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hey BK,

    THANKS! I can't believe how long ago those were made. They are anxiously awaiting to be put to use. poor lil guys. ;)

    There is a scene from ESB where Han flips a few switches that are mounted on the boxes. I believe its the scene where they enter the asteroid field and just before Han says "Chewie set 271"
     
  10. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey Thanks,
    I must of mistakenly skipped over those pages, when I was trying to get caught up on this thread. sorry about that
    The decals and smaller scale consoles look great BTW !
     
  11. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    SofaKing,
    I was reading through the section of you working with the decal and decal paper.
    I'm sending you (PM) a message with some links to a fellow who still has working ALPs printer (with a stockpile of spare parts and cartridges).
    He is here on the RPF and has a lot of experience with decals and their graphics
    The Alps printer as you may know can print with white opaque ink and also a 4th color metalic (silver or gold)
    That means one piece/one step waterslide decals like the kind made professionally in model kits.
    Also link a fellow who also has a state of the art $10K Laserjet printer that can also print in opaque white and metallic inks.
    It also has a larger print bed than the alps.
    If you are using the "Testors" Brand decal paper from your LHS , there are better performing specialty decal papers available out there. I will dig up those links too.

    Regarding:
    The trouble you are having with the clear film causing the back-ground black to not be as dark where the decals are placed on the surface;
    -- Is the base paint color beneath the decal a semi-gloss (or satin) black?
     
  12. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    No worries at all! It's always fun to go back and see what I was doing and where i was. ;)

    Thanks so much! Just got some great news from fellow RPFer Izzy re: the decals!
     
  13. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hey GG,

    Funny you mention the ALPS printer... Fellow RPFer Izzymel used his ever so impressive wheeling & dealing skills to secure an APLPS 5000P (I believe) printer and it should be delivered within the next week or so! We are VERY excited and one step closer to having the decals for the 1/4 and 1/6 scale ready for delivery!

    Any link you can provide to better paper would be wonderful. Please note: I need the paper to be 11x17 for the larger instrument panel decals.
     
  14. joberg

    joberg Master Member

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    This thread keeps on giving: giving me pleasure (and a big smile) every time I'm checking the cockpit progress:)(y)
     
  15. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hi Gang,

    PART IV - The Nose Cone

    Time to address and get some more work done on the nose cone / canopy
    IMG_20181215_090729_zpspmwxubiw.jpg

    So how am I going to skin the lower nose without messing it up! ;)
    IMG_20181215_090734_zps5k16x0oc.jpg

    So... while thinking about the nose skin I sanded the canopy a little more
    IMG_20181215_102540_zpscl0gedgc.jpg

    IMG_20181215_102545_zpscoerdt3d.jpg

    Still have to get into those tight areas
    IMG_20181215_102552_zpsdg7hs4kx.jpg

    IMG_20181215_102559_zpsoztdoz5q.jpg

    Sanded the interior filler and finally got some primer added!
    IMG_20181215_132915_zpsqqfrxi7d.jpg

    IMG_20181215_132924_zpskpkhx9jw.jpg

    IMG_20181215_132934_zpsz21o9ysu.jpg

    OK... Time to address the lower nose skin! I taped off the entire nose and trimmed the tape edges
    IMG_20181216_121709_zpsodomcaea.jpg

    IMG_20181216_121716_zpshk6ejyzf.jpg

    IMG_20181216_121721_zpsxwe463v0.jpg

    I had to add some horizontal tape pieces to keep the tape from coming apart when removed - adhered to styrene
    IMG_20181216_122450_zps0sicw0pr.jpg

    Began to cut away from the styrene
    IMG_20181216_122655_zpshrvuszuo.jpg

    Left myself enough slack on all sides to ensure a good fit
    IMG_20181216_122828_zpspqhqshmh.jpg

    And that's where we are so far!

    Stay Tuned!
     
  16. BruceKenobi

    BruceKenobi Active Member

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    Hey SK, I just wondered, are you working form blueprints or from "head-prints"? (like head cannon but for blueprints)
     
  17. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hey J,

    That's the idea! So long as you guys/gals keep inspiring me... I can only do the same. :)
     
  18. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hey BK,

    The basic structure is based very heavily on Steve Starkiller's 3D model of the MF. But the actual frame is completely made up by me as I go. I look at a LOT of the behind the scene images and just sort of copy and scale down... They dont call her the "Ship of Riddles" for nothing! ;)
     
  19. Sni9er

    Sni9er Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    man with that primer on it takes a whole new look, always good to see grey on things in progress!!

    blows my mind to see you go at a small scale one !!
     
  20. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hey S,

    I love the primer stage! The 1/4 and 1/6 scales have been a LOT of fun to do. More work than I thought... but still a lot of fun! :)
     
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  21. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    here here! me too!
    with primer you can pretend you don't know what it looks like "underneath" or what it's actually made of...just focus on the shape and surface quality.
     
  22. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    SofaKing,
    Regarding the decals, if your base coat of black paint is a semi-gloss or satin, that is why you are getting that slightly lighter "hazed/film" look where the transparent parts of the decal are located.
    It is because Flat (Matte) and semi-gloss finishes have a very fine "tooth" to their surface. This traps very minute air bubbles under the surface of the decal film,
    The way to avoid this is; You need to have a purely Gloss surface / substrate - on the areas that you are placing the decals. A good glosssy surface is perfectly smooth.
    You will not get the micro air bubbles trapped underneath. After the decals have dried, You can then put a clear-coat of Flat or Semi-gloss over the area to achieve the final finish that you desire. (which also serves to protect the decals from wear and tear)
    This may mean you initially paint (for example) the console with a gloss black and then, spray a semi-gloss finish to the entire piece after the decals are set in place.
    Or you can just spray a clear gloss coat over just the areas that receive decals, following up with a clear semi-gloss after the decals have dried for at least 24 hours.
    I would definitely do some experimentation and testing with the paints/finishes you are using first. To thoroughly check compatibility.
    Mixing brands or types of spray paints can sometimes cause bad results /interactions. Ie: cracking, wrinkling, peeling etc.

    Keep in mind too, Satin, and Semi-Gloss clear coats, and especially Matte (flat) clear coats can "cake" white in corners and crevices if applied too thick in one coat. Better to have 2-3 thin coats allowing some dry time between coats.
    And definitely no high humidity when painting these clear finishes!
    True lacquer paints will give you best results if you can get them, they are increasing hard to find with most major spray paint brands.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2018
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  23. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    BTW, I apologize if you already knew this about decal applications,
    I don't mean to insult your intelligence,
    ... nor am I trying to sound like a know it all.
    (Before the advent of the "Digital Age", I use to use an airbrush and touch-up gun for a lot of illustration work... and have painted on a myriad of surfaces.(and paints too) Not jus illustration board, but also surf-boards, glass,textiles, cars, motorcycles, helmets etc.)
    I am very impressed with the ingenuity you have shown during this build!
    I have certainly been taking notes; and learning a few new techniques to "add to my play book"
     
  24. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey SofaKing01,
    not to be a pest...
    but, may I ask what 2D/3D software are you using for you CAD work?
    sorry, if this was already mentioned earlier in this thread.
     
  25. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Sadly, we're our own worst critics when it comes to "making". We ALWAYS know what's underneath all the filler and primer! ;)
     
  26. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hey GG,

    THANKS for the info! VERY helpful. I'm hoping the ALPS printer will solve ALL my continuing issues with the decals. I'm sure there will be a slight learning curve, but the fact we have the ALPS is awesome! Stand by for some 1/4 and 1/6 scale console updates with some newly printed decals.
     
  27. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    NOT AL ALL! I appreciate the time and experience you're sharing. How are we to learn anything if we're not open to other's experiences and expertise! :)

    Thanks so much! I'm still learning as I go.
     
  28. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Again... not at all! :)

    Believe it or not... I'm a Corel guy. Not a huge fan of the Adobe drawing tools. Photoshop is a different animal and VERY impressive. But their drawing tools... eh...

    Anywho, we started using a free drawing app called Inkscape. It's not a bad app at all. The PC we have at the shop is not a graphics machine by any definition so we installed Inkscape for everybody to use. Inkscape also exports DXFs - the format the laser cutter s/w uses. I have to be able to make quick and real-time changes, so... the long answer to your question - Inkscape. ;)

    I hope that helps?
     
  29. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey thanks, I will look into Inkscape.
    I like Adobe Illustrator and Corel both, but have not kept up with the latest iterations of corel. The Laser cutters I use prefer Corel as the final format for exporting.

    By the way here is a simple formula for determining the surface development for a cone (Ie: the cockpit's main shape)

    Cone Development.jpg

    Also, do you know about "repositionable" spray-mount?
    Used by quilters. You can get "Aleene's" repositionable "Tacky Spray" at Joanne Fabrics & Crafts

    I use it when cutting with a CNC mill or Laser cutter is not practical.
    I simple print the 2D shape/pattern from the printer, spray the back of the paper and plop it down on the styrene sheet ( or leather, fabric, vynil etc).
    Its easy to remove after you cut out the shape. It leaves little if any residue, which can easily be cleaned off with some water or alcohol.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 21, 2018
  30. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hey GG,

    I have always wondered what the formula was for finding the surface of cone. Now... if I only knew what I was looking at? ;)
     
  31. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Do you mean the diagram?
     
  32. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    In the case of the CockPit "Cone" (technically a "conic section)
    You would have to project the slope of sides of the cone (forward) in space to where they converge to one point.
    The length, measured to that imaginary point is "S" (the Slant Height)

    A number of years back I was working on an exhibit for the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum ( in DC).
    We were making a 1/10 scale model of the Chandra Satellite.
    even at 1/10 scale the tapered conic section was 9 feet long. Projected to the Point" or "Tip of the cone it was about 29 feet long.
    We actually threw together a 30'-foot long beam compass. went out to the parking lot, taped down a large sheet of tyvek, and 3 of us wrangled a large arc with the compass. The pattern came out great. --Only off by 1" which was ok as I planned a 3" over-lap. The final material was thin gauge aluminium wrapped over a Metal and MFD superstructure. (not unlike some of your framing)
    It's still on display suspended some 14 feet up in the air.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2018
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  33. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hi Gang,

    PART V: The Exterior Skin

    I was finally able to fiberglass the lower section of the exterior skin
    IMG_20181215_094035_zpsil8jpivc.jpg

    There is still LOTS of clean up to do but we're making progress!
    IMG_20181215_094043_zpswlzo1ccw.jpg

    Nice clean edges
    IMG_20181215_095716_zpsxclwnspe.jpg

    I found center and aligned on the base
    IMG_20181215_100125_zpslcqkkmaj.jpg

    WOW... that looks strangely familiar
    IMG_20181215_100442_zpsopfmyp7d.jpg

    IMG_20181215_100448_zpsa6tgwbkq.jpg

    I have to create some mounting point for the skin to screw into
    IMG_20181215_100453_zpsanxbwblz.jpg

    IMG_20181215_100459_zpswytojnjk.jpg

    Both pieces married up
    IMG_20181215_100544_zps7xglvjgt.jpg

    OVERHANG! That's beautiful sight. I'd rather there be more than less
    IMG_20181215_100552_zpsr7l3piyx.jpg

    IMG_20181215_100600_zpsssfneuei.jpg

    Time to start cleaning up these edges
    IMG_20181215_121552_zpsp0uslwem.jpg

    IMG_20181215_121555_zpsdxgmw7to.jpg

    IMG_20181216_154103_zpsfubpoh9s.jpg

    This weekend will include sanding the fiberglass smooth and hopefully the first layer of styrene
    IMG_20181216_154111_zpszw06cq3n.jpg

    More to Follow!
     
  34. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    sorry, I missed the "wink" ...was viewing on my mobile...didn't know you were kidding.

    I was wondering, if you might be having trouble adhering the plastic to the wood?
    I have had that trouble too. For bigger surfaces, Like your fullsize stuff we had used industrial grade contact cement.
    This stuff gets mixed with lacquer thinner or acetone (depending on the maker) and sprayed through a paint gun.
    I learned to work with it in High-School as I worked at a place that made Camper, Trailers and RVs
    This it what was used to put on the Fiber-Glass, metal or Plastic siding onto the frame of the RVs.
    It is a bit of a pain to go to all the trouble of mixing and spraying. (it looks like silly string when sprayed on)

    I was going to look into the type of contact cement we used for laminate countertops. That can be brushed or rolled on (or sprayed)
    I've also been using barge cement on a leather work project. I was going to try it too. This is the toxic version (red can) which is what your cobbler uses to glue the soles of your shoes together. A big advantage is that it remains flexible.
    It can be thinned though ...I do not know (yet) if the solvent will attack the styrene.

    The Toxic version of Barge cement (Red can) works better than the newer, less toxic (Blue tube/can)
    Fair Notice: the Toxic stuff is known to cause cancer in the state of California, fortunately you are based in Texas! ;)
     
  35. BruceKenobi

    BruceKenobi Active Member

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    Here is a sneak peak!!.....To answer the proverbial question: how do you turn-on/power-up/start-up The Falcon? the answer: "there's more than one way to skin a womp-rat"!

     
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  36. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    wow! really nice work!
    Disney should have contract you guys to build the full-size stuff!

    BTW SofaKing, you might be interested in this:
    These guys make plastic film for adhering to glass / windows. Most, go on with a static cling or like tinted glass film used on car windows and autobody wraps
    They have some films that are good for use as light-diffusers, back-lit graphics, as well as color tints and various geometric effects, chrome, silver & metallic finishes.

    They have free samples ...which in themselves are often plenty big enough for most normal scaled spacecraft miniature projects
    (perhaps not however for your gy-normous scales!)

    Decorative Film Products | Decorative Films

    1PVC frosted sheet
     
  37. IzzyMel

    IzzyMel Well-Known Member

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    Worked on making the scaled down versions of the Dome Pan lights. 1/4 and 1/6 scale versions:

    44594633180_1643296751_c.jpg Dome panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

    46360686162_b3a92e2c55_c.jpg Dome panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

    44594633090_c5cf6616ed_c.jpg Dome panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

    I rushed to paint them and assemble them should have waited for the paint to completely dry. The 1/6 will need to be repainted. Oh well its a test anyways:

    45499062225_2858a8d467_c.jpg Panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

    45499062175_93d1ba188a_c.jpg Panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

    31471982047_2040752b16_c.jpg Dome panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

    Now I just need them in red, blue, white, and yellow.
     
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  38. joberg

    joberg Master Member

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    Wow...talkin' 'bout miniature:eek::cool::cool:
     
  39. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Nice work Izzy!
    I loved your 1/6 scale X-wing cockpit build.
    I see you have since taken the plunge and come over to the "digital side"
    Curious? what type of 3D printer are mainly using?
     
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  40. IzzyMel

    IzzyMel Well-Known Member

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    thanks. I use the Raise3D and CR 10 for large prints and the AnyCubic photon for the small very detail pieces
     
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  41. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Ooh! I have had my eye on the Raise3D too!
    It deserves all the kudoz it's been getting, not surprising considering who had a hand in developing it, :cool:
    I've been lucky and have had access to so really nice hi-end 3D printers for the last 15 years or so.
    It wasn't until recently that the Desktop 3D printers have gotten to where I may actually want one.
    I'm considering the Formlabs latest model for small detailed stuff.
     
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  42. BruceKenobi

    BruceKenobi Active Member

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    So I tried to see the differences in the cockpit between Solo-Ep4-Ep5-Ep6-Ep7-Ep8, and there quite a few!! see for yourself:
     

    Attached Files:

  43. IzzyMel

    IzzyMel Well-Known Member

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    That’s why you need to pick the one you like best and go with it. Mine is the ESB.
     
    Hostamon likes this.
  44. BruceKenobi

    BruceKenobi Active Member

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    Interesting take IzzyMel, now, after seeing them up close, I realized that Ep5-Ep6 are the SAME set, and that Ep7-Ep8 are based of the Ep5 set, so those four are pretty much the same, Solo has some details that you can throw it in the "that's lando's version" basket, and nothing to argue there, although I miss the 2 working screens in that iteration: on that is used by Han in ESB when searching for systems, even tough we never see it on full front, and another one, that has dissapeared by the time of EP4 right next to the pilots seat, that is a sad miss. Ep4 is a puzzle is different from all other sets, and has less lights.

    Something I found for SofaKing to check is this (be sure to see it on mobile phone, as computers don't give you the full effect): Star Wars 360: View The Force Awakens Set Panoramas at StarWars.com - UPDATED 4/5 | StarWars.com
     
  45. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hi Gang,

    Check out EP 1 on our new YouTube Channel "...What a Piece of Junk.."


    Sorry for the poor sound quality. I'm still figuring all this editing out... ;)

    OK... Time to get back to work!
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018
  46. DaddyfromNaboo

    DaddyfromNaboo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Awesome as usual. My carpenter uses a polyurethane glue, superstrong stuff, much better than superglue.
     
  47. teecrooz

    teecrooz Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just watched the new video! Thanks for the shout out! I can’t wait to see where the series goes.
     
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  48. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hi RPF,

    Wishing you all a very Happy Holiday, Merry Christmas and a Safe and Happy New Year! : )
     
  49. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Hi Gang,

    Time for that "End of the Holiday Weekend Update" - in 5 Parts ;)

    Part I: The Exterior Skin
    As you all know I created a fiberglass skin to go around the exterior of the 1/4 scale cockpit - time to trim it up!
    I marked the area to be removed
    IMG_20181222_080629_zpsmwwt84cp.jpg

    IMG_20181222_080603_zpsmuvwrcup.jpg

    After making a pass with the band saw (tough to get pics)
    IMG_20181222_081140_zpsjmlocap8.jpg

    I placed the smooth edge on the back side against the corridor ring and taped into position
    IMG_20181222_081554_zpsesgqpgzz.jpg

    Time to sand / file away all this overhang!
    IMG_20181222_081600_zpshwcl1gar.jpg

    I slowly removed material and taped the edges flush as I went around the body
    IMG_20181222_082655_zps0ta083ks.jpg

    IMG_20181222_082703_zpsaxargq5c.jpg

    Taping as I go
    IMG_20181222_083759_zpsrnxnxdul.jpg

    IMG_20181222_083813_zpsji49jp82.jpg

    Nice and smooth! All the edges are plumb
    IMG_20181222_092730_zpsu9hw9iyf.jpg

    IMG_20181222_092733_zpswapqtbwq.jpg

    I decided to butt the skin against the corridor ring - this would have added too much overall width to the skin
    IMG_20181222_092740_zpshb9osxte.jpg

    The lower skin is going to be fun...
    IMG_20181222_092745_zps3xcgdj7u.jpg

    I HAVE to sand down some of the underside areas of the skin so it sits flush before I can add any styrene
    IMG_20181222_092754_zpss7pdc46v.jpg

    Part II Below
     
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  50. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    PART II: Main Window, Corridor Ring and the Nose

    Added more filler/primer to the nose
    IMG_20181222_104223_zpsjsyjrsif.jpg

    Main window finally saw some primer
    IMG_20181222_104229_zps4q2q5wbd.jpg

    LOTS of filler to add
    IMG_20181222_104236_zpsadkhbrhi.jpg

    And the corridor ring as been fighting me every step of the way!
    IMG_20181222_110439_zpsgymr3pp1.jpg

    UGH
    IMG_20181222_110458_zpsx11t0su7.jpg

    IMG_20181222_110445_zps24d5oqwr.jpg

    PART III Below
     
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