Logan's Run ---- Life Clock

Apollo,

Thank you for your reply. To be clear then, the underside of the crystal is flat? The facets that make up the surface of the crystal are sharper, not soft as shown in this photo?

Yellow lifeclock closeup small.jpg

I had surmised that the back of the crystal was concave to allow better adhesion when glued in to the palm of the actors hand. I was counting on this to allow for a LED and small battery to light the crystal. If they are meant to be flat we may have to rethink how to make them.

None I misunderstood thought you were talking about the pull of it the facets are sharp not soft if that makes sense
 
None I misunderstood thought you were talking about the pull of it the facets are sharp not soft if that makes sense

The facets are SHARP ? Okay, that would indeed be different than extra's crystals. But easily doable.
 
It is slightly concave go a google search of logans run lifeclock there is another angle of the green one that can help you

Thank you for helping to clear that up, how deep is the concave section? Is it as thick as the crystal surface?
 
The only image I could find for a green crystal at an angle was from richardmwilcox.com and this is that image.
Yellow lifeclock at angle small.jpg


Is this the one you meant? I resized the image for a closer look. There appears to be a small 'bump' on the underside.
Yellow lifeclock at angle smallbig.jpg
It is slightly concave go a google search of logans run lifeclock there is another angle of the green one that can help you
 
The precision that has gone into these lifeclock replicas is truly incredible!

I made a set myself (photos below) but it was very basic compared to this: silicon mould made from a very worn casting of a supposed original, then cold cast in hand-tinted resin (without a vacuum chamber) and backed with silver foil.

Please put me down for a set of these new examples if ever they come to pass!

Simon

Addendum: My deepest apologies - the last two photos of life clocks (on a light wooden surface) actually belong to another RPF member and I used them for inspiration when I was making my own. I confusedly added them to my pictures in this comment and now I cannot find a way to remove them!
So once again, many apologies to the original poster of those photos - it I was certainly not my intention to claim credit for work other than my own!
 

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Thanks for the photos !!!

Yes, creating them from scratch gives a little more control if I want to change something.
 
First off, thanks for sharing your collection and for the photos, it will all help.

Second, in two photos you look as though there is an LED or two in the center of a mold/cast. What did you use for the light(s) and how did you power it?
Light Crystal 01.jpegLight crystal 02.jpeg


The precision that has gone into these lifeclock replicas is truly incredible!

I made a set myself (photos below) but it was very basic compared to this: silicon mould made from a very worn casting of a supposed original, then cold cast in hand-tinted resin (without a vacuum chamber) and backed with silver foil.

Please put me down for a set of these new examples if ever they come to pass!

Simon

Addendum: My deepest apologies - the last two photos of life clocks (on a light wooden surface) actually belong to another RPF member and I used them for inspiration when I was making my own. I confusedly added them to my pictures in this comment and now I cannot find a way to remove them! 
So once again, many apologies to the original poster of those photos - it I was certainly not my intention to claim credit for work other than my own!
 
First off, thanks for sharing your collection and for the photos, it will all help.

Second, in two photos you look as though there is an LED or two in the center of a mold/cast. What did you use for the light(s) and how did you power it?
View attachment 585358View attachment 585359

Hi,
Thank you - I'm very glad to be able to contribute to this fascinating thread and, to answer your question, yes I cast a single, flashing LED into one of the red crystals which I then attached to a small battery pack.
I'm very sorry for the late reply but I was trying to find a way of uploading a video of the flashing lifeclock display. I wasn't successful in this and so instead, I have posted several more photographs of the crystals in various stages of completion and the framed display along with the small battery box containing two AA batteries.
Finally - and I'm not sure if this is of any help - I wanted to give you the acrylic resin ratio I used for the green crystal (which was by far the hardest colour to replicate):
Based on a total of 45 drops per lifeclock, it was 24 drops clear resin + 3 drops green + 3 drops blue + 15 drops hardener. Basically, you need to keep a ratio of 2/3 resin to 1/3 hardener but the colour mix was trial and error and experimentation.

All the best,
SimonIMG_4231.JPGIMG_4229.JPGIMG_4228.JPGIMG_4227.JPGIMG_4226.JPGIMG_4223.JPGFullSizeRender.jpgFullSizeRender-2.jpg

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FullSizeRender.jpg


IMG_4223.JPG


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IMG_4228.JPG


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SiR,

Thank you again for your generous sharing of work. I hadn't realized the flashing crystal was in your display. That would certainly make it stand out.

Have you ever tried to "sharpen" the facets of the crystals? Especially the start of life ones? They shouldn't be worn down at all.

You have given lots to ponder.


Hi,
Thank you - I'm very glad to be able to contribute to this fascinating thread and, to answer your question, yes I cast a single, flashing LED into one of the red crystals which I then attached to a small battery pack.
I'm very sorry for the late reply but I was trying to find a way of uploading a video of the flashing lifeclock display. I wasn't successful in this and so instead, I have posted several more photographs of the crystals in various stages of completion and the framed display along with the small battery box containing two AA batteries.
Finally - and I'm not sure if this is of any help - I wanted to give you the acrylic resin ratio I used for the green crystal (which was by far the hardest colour to replicate):
Based on a total of 45 drops per lifeclock, it was 24 drops clear resin + 3 drops green + 3 drops blue + 15 drops hardener. Basically, you need to keep a ratio of 2/3 resin to 1/3 hardener but the colour mix was trial and error and experimentation.

All the best,
SimonView attachment 585751View attachment 585750View attachment 585749View attachment 585748View attachment 585747View attachment 585746View attachment 585745View attachment 585744
 
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Nothing on your illustration, you did great with it, I was just wondering if you saw the stronger definition in some of the screen caps. Blowing up the images only blurred the lines so I was worried i was the only one seeing them.


I removed the majority of the "softness". What would you like different ?
 
image.jpeg

SiR's images look soft. The center four petals don't have much definition. I think my design has more detail in some respects.

And maybe you ARE seeing something I'm not. :) Because it's translucent instead of solid, it is hard to make out detail.
 

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