ForceAfterCoffe
Member
That's not mine, just one that I found on Google but I hope mine turns out just as good if not better.
Keep Moving Forward.
Mysterio Build - SpiderMan
- Thread starter ForceAfterCoffe
- Start date
That's not mine, just one that I found on Google but I hope mine turns out just as good if not better.
Keep Moving Forward.
George
Master Member
May I suggest:
-looking in the JfCustom's foam thread for an iron man foam chest with shoulder pads (I believe it was the Extremis 1 or 2 suit) with which the cape can be held up (instead of turning you into a cocoon with sphere on top)
-perhaps a round foam collar (classic iron man costume part,same thread as mentioned above) with custom narrow edge on the inside of the collar on which the sphere can rest,once put on your head.Perhaps add magnets to keep dome in place while moving?
As mentioned by others,you'd want to go for bulky body and tucked-in-cape dome for realism.
Rooting for you,F !
-looking in the JfCustom's foam thread for an iron man foam chest with shoulder pads (I believe it was the Extremis 1 or 2 suit) with which the cape can be held up (instead of turning you into a cocoon with sphere on top)
-perhaps a round foam collar (classic iron man costume part,same thread as mentioned above) with custom narrow edge on the inside of the collar on which the sphere can rest,once put on your head.Perhaps add magnets to keep dome in place while moving?
As mentioned by others,you'd want to go for bulky body and tucked-in-cape dome for realism.
Rooting for you,F !
Rogviler
Well-Known Member
Hmm, I wonder if it would work to mirror the inside and then put LEDs all around the bottom cut edge, like this effect:
But instead of a logo it would be (hopefully) bouncing off the mirrored surface, disguising the interior even further. Something to play around with if you decide to light it.
Definitely do some light blocking though, so the light isn't seeping out the bottom of the chest.
-Rog
But instead of a logo it would be (hopefully) bouncing off the mirrored surface, disguising the interior even further. Something to play around with if you decide to light it.
Definitely do some light blocking though, so the light isn't seeping out the bottom of the chest.
-Rog
ForceAfterCoffe
Member
I will take a look at that thread. Thank you so much. A foam collar is a great plan to keep everything comfortable and help with the proportions.
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ForceAfterCoffe
Member
Hmm, I wonder if it would work to mirror the inside and then put LEDs all around the bottom cut edge, like this effect:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/p8gj01VZQqA/hqdefault.jpg
But instead of a logo it would be (hopefully) bouncing off the mirrored surface, disguising the interior even further. Something to play around with if you decide to light it.
Definitely do some light blocking though, so the light isn't seeping out the bottom of the chest.
-Rog
Ohh yes! That would look really cool!! Plus, if it helps the mirror effect that is just good multi tasking.
Haha yeah. I do like his chest piece as a support for the dome but not with the glow coming out.
Thanks!!
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ForceAfterCoffe
Member
Alright! I started my first cut on my globe and used the excess to test the Krylon Looking Glass paint. I am THRILLED with my results! We tested just a thin layer to see if there would be any visibility out of it and there IS! Yes!! Now we are marking the place where I will see out and will spray the rest with more layers around it.
Keep Moving Forward.
Keep Moving Forward.
XXpennywisexx
New Member
This is quite the badass cosplay. I'd say amazing but I have an aversion to that word as well as spectacular and sensational.
Here are the things I learnt from doing mine.
You need to get the fixing of the dome/globe sorted first. You need to look at some form of collar or shoulder pads to keep it from moving around,
Gold boots are very hard to come by, If you paint some, the paint comes off
It gets very hot inside the globe
You need to get some good muscle padding for the chest/abs
You need to get the fixing of the dome/globe sorted first. You need to look at some form of collar or shoulder pads to keep it from moving around,
Gold boots are very hard to come by, If you paint some, the paint comes off
It gets very hot inside the globe
You need to get some good muscle padding for the chest/abs
MWiggs
Well-Known Member
I'm may be a bit late to the party, but I must say I'm a fan of all the Spider-Man villains! Looks like you've got a great start on this! Looking forward to more progress and what you come up with for the lighting effects.
If I may input my 2 cents, as far as the one-way mirror effect goes, I recently came up with a method of my own and got really good results, being totally one-way and able to see thru quite nicely. If you have access to an airbrush (I think you can buy my same one for about $25) and Alclad Chrome, you'll get about the best surface finish I've seen for something like this without going the expensive vacuum metallizing route. If you're interested you can check out my method here, otherwise I'm really curious to see your method. Best of luck and can't wait to see more!
If I may input my 2 cents, as far as the one-way mirror effect goes, I recently came up with a method of my own and got really good results, being totally one-way and able to see thru quite nicely. If you have access to an airbrush (I think you can buy my same one for about $25) and Alclad Chrome, you'll get about the best surface finish I've seen for something like this without going the expensive vacuum metallizing route. If you're interested you can check out my method here, otherwise I'm really curious to see your method.
Best of luck and can't wait to see more!
ForceAfterCoffe
Member
I'm may be a bit late to the party, but I must say I'm a fan of all the Spider-Man villains! Looks like you've got a great start on this! Looking forward to more progress and what you come up with for the lighting effects.
If I may input my 2 cents, as far as the one-way mirror effect goes, I recently came up with a method of my own and got really good results, being totally one-way and able to see thru quite nicely. If you have access to an airbrush (I think you can buy my same one for about $25) and Alclad Chrome, you'll get about the best surface finish I've seen for something like this without going the expensive vacuum metallizing route. If you're interested you can check out my method here, otherwise I'm really curious to see your method.
View attachment 638510
Wow that looks terrific! If my original plan doesn't plan out I will definitely be trying this!! Thank you for sharing
Keep Moving Forward.
Won't be able to do that without creases or seam lines as the tint won't go round a sphere
xl97
Master Member
I can help with the lighting if needed.
I suggest to use a simple Arduino.. and a Neopixel led strip (RGB leds with built in driver chip).. any color you want.. and individually addressable LEDS in the strip.
Almost any Arduino can drive a Neopixel strip.. (ie: ATTiny/Digispark..etc or even full blown Arduinos.. UNO. Nano, Pro-Micro's..etc)
battery pack needed will depend on how leds in your strip you use.
with some diffusion inside the 'globe'.. the whole thing could 'light up'..
I dont think edge lighting will do anything for you.. well... because you dont have any edges! LOL
ie:
It works on acrylic because.. there are 'edges' and/or there are etchings in the side.. that pick up the light. (you have neither)
I suggest to use a simple Arduino.. and a Neopixel led strip (RGB leds with built in driver chip).. any color you want.. and individually addressable LEDS in the strip.
Almost any Arduino can drive a Neopixel strip.. (ie: ATTiny/Digispark..etc or even full blown Arduinos.. UNO. Nano, Pro-Micro's..etc)
battery pack needed will depend on how leds in your strip you use.
with some diffusion inside the 'globe'.. the whole thing could 'light up'..
I dont think edge lighting will do anything for you.. well... because you dont have any edges! LOL
ie:
It works on acrylic because.. there are 'edges' and/or there are etchings in the side.. that pick up the light. (you have neither)
ForceAfterCoffe
Member
I can help with the lighting if needed.
I suggest to use a simple Arduino.. and a Neopixel led strip (RGB leds with built in driver chip).. any color you want.. and individually addressable LEDS in the strip.
Almost any Arduino can drive a Neopixel strip.. (ie: ATTiny/Digispark..etc or even full blown Arduinos.. UNO. Nano, Pro-Micro's..etc)
battery pack needed will depend on how leds in your strip you use.
with some diffusion inside the 'globe'.. the whole thing could 'light up'..
I dont think edge lighting will do anything for you.. well... because you dont have any edges! LOL
ie: http://dmstudios.net/misc/TASM_display/tasm_display_6.jpg
It works on acrylic because.. there are 'edges' and/or there are etchings in the side.. that pick up the light. (you have neither)
That makes sense. Thanks for the tip! I will definitely look into the LED strip. How big are the battery packs? I wonder where I'd be able to hide it. In a utility belt maybe or under my cape? Or if it doesn't have a lot of give maybe in the globe base? Just thinking out loud here.
Keep Moving Forward.
ForceAfterCoffe
Member
Yeah I've seen some with this and It looked more like aluminum foil. :/
I so far I'm liking the looking glass spray from Krylon. I did a second coat on it the other day and it's turning out nice, with good visibility. I'm going to ride it out for now and see how it pans out.
Keep Moving Forward.
xl97
Master Member
Since the Neopixel strips need +5v to run... I would suggest a +7.4v li-ion pack.. (2 x 3.7v cells)..
I cant remeber the exact size (14500's? maybe).. but should fit in a 2 x AA battery holder.. the 18650 sized ones are more like shotgun shells.. (each)..
that will give you enough juice to power the Neopixel strip and the Arduino itself..
* You will need a voltage regulator to ensure the +7.4v pack is regulated down to +5v for the led strip.
I would line the base/bottom/inside of the bucket with the led strip... the battery pack can go anywhere you feel comfortable.. HOWEVER.. IMHO.. it might be best to figure out a way to secure it the helmet as well.. so you dont have wires running all over your body when you want to remove the dome.
Looks like the 'cloak/cape' covers up some of the bottom.. so it might hide both the led strip and the battery pack.
*Note: Neopixel strips MUST be used with a microcontroller (like an Arduino).. can not be used -standalone-..
But you can color mix.. blink... fade.. step.... do whatever.
I cant remeber the exact size (14500's? maybe).. but should fit in a 2 x AA battery holder.. the 18650 sized ones are more like shotgun shells.. (each)..
that will give you enough juice to power the Neopixel strip and the Arduino itself..
* You will need a voltage regulator to ensure the +7.4v pack is regulated down to +5v for the led strip.
I would line the base/bottom/inside of the bucket with the led strip... the battery pack can go anywhere you feel comfortable.. HOWEVER.. IMHO.. it might be best to figure out a way to secure it the helmet as well.. so you dont have wires running all over your body when you want to remove the dome.
Looks like the 'cloak/cape' covers up some of the bottom.. so it might hide both the led strip and the battery pack.
*Note: Neopixel strips MUST be used with a microcontroller (like an Arduino).. can not be used -standalone-..
But you can color mix.. blink... fade.. step.... do whatever.
You can try a single 3.7V battery with neopixels. Based on what I have read, the brightness will be lower, but it will work. You would also use a 3.3V arduino. I'm building something with a single 10440 (AAA size) and pixels, but the pixels haven't arrived yet. I also ordered a LED strip with single color LEDs that you can cut down to single segments (or use as strips). It was rated for 5V, so I'm expecting each segment to just be a resistor and LED. They should also light up with a 3.7V battery, but at lower brightness. I haven't been able to find LED strips designed for maximum current with a 4V (or 3.7V) supply voltage.
kevinv
Active Member
Yeah I have a few ideas on how to accomplish it. I ordered this which will get here tomorrow. I'm going to try Krylon Looking Glass spray to create a 2 way mirror effect. It works on some plastics but I'm going to test it on the acrylic.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cool. What size is that.
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