Show your custom Lightsabers!

thd9791 · Apr 27, 2015

My dad just picked up one of these! It will be his first solo custom build...isnt the clamp so cool looking on the inside? I keep marveling at the engineering of De Mornay flashes..he's removed those prongs on the sides...he got T track from Roy and I think he's going in an ANH vader esque style.

D48thRonin said:
So I just dug this out of storage...

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It's a DeMornay-Budd 3 cell flash that I acquired about 16 years ago. The design is rather ironic, when you consider the new Kylo Ren saber.

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Once upon a time I started converting it into a saber, but only got so far as dressing out the emitter end a bit - if I remember correctly, I used some parts from a plastic sprinkler head and a rubber O ring.

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I think it's about time that I finally finish it off, with some T-track and a D-ring. The only question is, do I go with a bubble strip or a BUS card in the clamp? No need for mylar tape either, as the logo is actually pretty cool:

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Here's a shot that I dug up, taken back when I first got it - you can kinda' see what was going on inside the socket. There's also that lever (bulb release?) that I removed.

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And here are some auction pics that I grabbed, probably back around that same time - this one appears to be a 2 cell and it looks like the "prongs" are slightly different (at least that back one, anyway)

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SolosHold · Apr 28, 2015

Pinousse · Apr 29, 2015

My wife saber just completed :love

https://youtu.be/hZNyUgZbpr8

usajdm · Apr 29, 2015

^^^^^
That is great.

Heres a few I've acquired this week.
Nothing done to them yet, but open for ideas.

Sym-Cha · Apr 29, 2015

Some Vader sabers could be constructed ... if shroud and clamp parts can be found ...

Chaim

mvanwalks421 · Apr 29, 2015

^^ Second that

Calaeryn · Apr 30, 2015

usajdm said:
^^^^^
That is great.

Heres a few I've acquired this week.
Nothing done to them yet, but open for ideas.

Some nice finds there. =D

ARKM · Apr 30, 2015

Here are the saber-staves I have built (not counting the extremely short-bladed Nifo'oti which I posted earlier in this thread), in the order I built them. The first is the only staff (Other than Nifo'oti) that I have installed electronics in (no sound board). It is just a staff and as such, does not separate in the middle. It's simply named "Saber 12".

This next one is called "Overkill, has no electronics and it separates in the middle via a Corbin coupler with the addition of a nut and bolt.

This last one, like the previous one, has no electronics and it separates in the middle via a Corbin coupler with the addition of a nut and bolt. I call it "Sith Assassin". It's based off of concept art for the Star Wars - The old Republic MMO. That concept art saber is also in the game though it looks a little different for the artwork.

Sluis Van Shipyards · Apr 30, 2015

I love the black one! That is wicked looking!

ARKM · Apr 30, 2015

Thanks.

usajdm · May 1, 2015

Don't want to steer the threes of track, but at the same time didn't want to waste a whole new thred either.
Figured this would be a good thread to ask in.

Any ideas for a "beginners" sound/light board for a custom saber?
Thanks a lot,
Robert

ARKM · May 1, 2015

usajdm said:
Don't want to steer the threes of track, but at the same time didn't want to waste a whole new thred either.
Figured this would be a good thread to ask in.

Any ideas for a "beginners" sound/light board for a custom saber?
Thanks a lot,
Robert

Well some people use the Hasbro FX boards from the older non-removable blade Force FX sabers (I guess there's issues using the newer boards but maybe with the newer LEDS on the market, might no longer be an issue). Other than that, I'd say the Nano Biscotte would be a good option for beginners (sold at The Custom Saber Shop or if you're in Europe, Plecter Labs).

scythe1980 · May 2, 2015

buddy of mine wants a lightsaber based off of bluntmans bong saber from j and silent bob strikes back. i've wired it up and he's going to polish it up and paint it. here it is so far, basically all that needs to be done is for him to smooth it out some, paint it the color he wants and get a better retention screw.

Sym-Cha · May 2, 2015

Now that's a different approach ... how would you wield that saber? Got a picture with your friend holding it? Or the original of bluntmans bong saber from j and silent bob strikes back to compare?

Chaim

GreenCircleCube · May 2, 2015

The Last two sabers are just stunning. Very impressive, how long did it take you to make those?

GreenCircleCube · May 3, 2015

SoloHold said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkLtGyAZQro

This is a fantastic custom, especially the leather grip. Can you please tell me what technique did you use to wrap the leather around the handle and what did you do to make it look weathered?

red4 · May 3, 2015

ARKM said:

Would you be willing to tell us your paint brand and technique for this? I love the way it looks, and would like to achieve similar effects with my own hilt.

ARKM · May 3, 2015

GreenCircleCube said:
The Last two sabers are just stunning. Very impressive, how long did it take you to make those?

If you mean those last two saber-staves, again, I don't really clock the hours (though I'm thinking maybe I should start). If I were to work on them 40 hours a week then maybe it would take 1 or 2 weeks. *shrugs*.

red4 said:
Would you be willing to tell us your paint brand and technique for this? I love the way it looks, and would like to achieve similar effects with my own hilt.

I normally use Krylon but for that one I used Rustoleum flat black. After painting it, I put it in a normal household electric oven at 200F for 4 hours to fully cure the paint (please don't use a gas oven as paint fumes are flammable). After it was cooled off, I lightly sanded the edges and banged the saber on parts of my mill and lathe to get the dings and dents, so that overall, it has a slightly worn look.

red4 · May 3, 2015

ARKM said:
I normally use Krylon but for that one I used Rustoleum flat black. After painting it, I put it in a normal household electric oven at 200F for 4 hours to fully cure the paint (please don't use a gas oven as paint fumes are flammable). After it was cooled off, I lightly sanded the edges and banged the saber on parts of my mill and lathe to get the dings and dents, so that overall, it has a slightly worn look.

Do you prefer one brand over the other?

ARKM · May 3, 2015

I have not tried many brands but I like both equally. X-O Rust also has a spray paint that is both a paint and primer in one. They have multiple colors in multiple finishes. I have used their Satin Black a few times and it works great.

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