Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming
- Thread starter phase pistol
- Start date
did you not have success with the red sharpie + rubbing alcohol trick to make the grips more of an amber color?
mtrixman
Well-Known Member
Tried it but couldn't get it as even as I wanted. Plus, I've gotten a bit used to the grip color and dont mind it much especially after they are polished up
DeathFromADesk
Active Member
I wish I would have begun my search for this gun a little sooner, as alas, I have missed out.
Very good work.
I hope things work out for those with their kits tied up in customs.
Very good work.
I hope things work out for those with their kits tied up in customs.
VFX Freak
Sr Member
Hmmm... I've been messing around with the bluing chemicals on the zinc parts. As a test I blued one of the cylinder covers since I will be painting it black anyway. Here it is with some reflection to show it's nice and glossy:
And here it is without the reflection to show the gory details. I didn't spend a lot of time sanding and polishing this part since it will be primed and painted. I did buff it with polishing compound using a dremel. It takes a lot to get the zinc really smooth. I did better with the Steyr receiver.
This was done using Casey's Aluminum Black and I think it looks pretty good. About three applications with some buffing followed by Barricade.
I'm going to try Casey's Super Blue on the other cover. I made the mistake of buying Casey's Perma Blue which did absolutely nothing to the zinc.
And here it is without the reflection to show the gory details. I didn't spend a lot of time sanding and polishing this part since it will be primed and painted. I did buff it with polishing compound using a dremel. It takes a lot to get the zinc really smooth. I did better with the Steyr receiver.
This was done using Casey's Aluminum Black and I think it looks pretty good. About three applications with some buffing followed by Barricade.
I'm going to try Casey's Super Blue on the other cover. I made the mistake of buying Casey's Perma Blue which did absolutely nothing to the zinc.
VFX Freak
Sr Member
In other news, I really don't understand what's going on in Nobu's photo tutorial for polishing and bluing the plastic parts. Here's his photo of the barrel:
Now here's mine after using the same materials and lots of elbow grease, but before applying any bluing solution:
I did use a different plastic polish. I used Novus 2 and then 1. Could THAT be the problem? No sheen at all. The barrel still looks like the one in the top of Nobu's photo. Are the two barrels in his shot supposed to represent before and after? It still looks like the lower one has been painted with something. I know Karl asked Nobu and was told there's no paint used, but I'm a little skeptical.
In case anyone wonders, I did use the other side of the sanding pads.
Has anyone had any luck with this technique?
Now here's mine after using the same materials and lots of elbow grease, but before applying any bluing solution:
I did use a different plastic polish. I used Novus 2 and then 1. Could THAT be the problem? No sheen at all. The barrel still looks like the one in the top of Nobu's photo. Are the two barrels in his shot supposed to represent before and after? It still looks like the lower one has been painted with something. I know Karl asked Nobu and was told there's no paint used, but I'm a little skeptical.
In case anyone wonders, I did use the other side of the sanding pads.
Has anyone had any luck with this technique?
It's cold cast - we'd had that discussion well before this over on PropSummit. If you did a barrel replacement, the cutoff was super shiny - it is possible to get the plastic to look metallic all over, but it requires more technique than I have. I think the top picture is to represent the barrel having been properly buffed to bring the zinc out. After that, as with the white metal parts, you have to do multiple applications of the aluminum black and really let it soak in. That series of photos he took is about how mine looked after each consecutive treatment.
And a total hat tip to whomever's name escapes me at the moment - the above technique was explained over there and it worked like a charm.
And a total hat tip to whomever's name escapes me at the moment - the above technique was explained over there and it worked like a charm.
In other news, I really don't understand what's going on in Nobu's photo tutorial for polishing and bluing the plastic parts. Here's his photo of the barrel:
View attachment 223798
Now here's mine after using the same materials and lots of elbow grease, but before applying any bluing solution:
View attachment 223799
I did use a different plastic polish. I used Novus 2 and then 1. Could THAT be the problem? No sheen at all. The barrel still looks like the one in the top of Nobu's photo. Are the two barrels in his shot supposed to represent before and after? It still looks like the lower one has been painted with something. I know Karl asked Nobu and was told there's no paint used, but I'm a little skeptical.
In case anyone wonders, I did use the other side of the sanding pads.
Has anyone had any luck with this technique?
Interesting. I may take mine apart and try it on a part that is concealed to see if I can get it to work.
Okay, Here's how mine turned out using their method. I just used what I had so it didn't turn out AS good, but still, for an hour's work, not too bad.
Here's how it looked before.
Then the progress of sanding.
I used a sanding sponge, starting with the gritty side, then going to the fine grain side. Then I used fine steel wool to bring out the polish.
DO NOT WET SAND!! DO NOT USE POLISH AT THIS POINT! anything wet will immediately take the silver back down to a dark gray. I made that mistake and had to start over. sanding it roughly to bring out the zing, then going fine, and using steel wool will bring out a nice shine so keep it dry!
Starting the Bluing process.
Then after several coats of Permablue ( i didn't have aluminum black). I just used a soaked cotton ball, let it dry, repeat, repeat, repeat. After several coats, I used the steel wool on it again, then did another couple of coats until the Permablue beaded up and wouldn't soak in anymore.
Buffed it one final time and DONE!
Here's how it looked before.
Then the progress of sanding.
I used a sanding sponge, starting with the gritty side, then going to the fine grain side. Then I used fine steel wool to bring out the polish.
DO NOT WET SAND!! DO NOT USE POLISH AT THIS POINT! anything wet will immediately take the silver back down to a dark gray. I made that mistake and had to start over. sanding it roughly to bring out the zing, then going fine, and using steel wool will bring out a nice shine so keep it dry!
Starting the Bluing process.
Then after several coats of Permablue ( i didn't have aluminum black). I just used a soaked cotton ball, let it dry, repeat, repeat, repeat. After several coats, I used the steel wool on it again, then did another couple of coats until the Permablue beaded up and wouldn't soak in anymore.
Buffed it one final time and DONE!
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DeathFromADesk
Active Member
Looks good. I really wish I had discovered this forum sooner so I could have gotten one of these.
In other news, I really don't understand what's going on in Nobu's photo tutorial for polishing and bluing the plastic parts. Here's his photo of the barrel:
View attachment 223798
Now here's mine after using the same materials and lots of elbow grease, but before applying any bluing solution:
View attachment 223799
I did use a different plastic polish. I used Novus 2 and then 1. Could THAT be the problem? No sheen at all. The barrel still looks like the one in the top of Nobu's photo. Are the two barrels in his shot supposed to represent before and after? It still looks like the lower one has been painted with something. I know Karl asked Nobu and was told there's no paint used, but I'm a little skeptical.
In case anyone wonders, I did use the other side of the sanding pads.
Has anyone had any luck with this technique?
I'm sorry, I do not for one second believe that there is no paint on that barrel! You just don't get that light of a color by sanding and polishing alone.
I don't know. I got at least 2/3rds of the way there if not more, using just what I had. I know I did have to sand down quite a bit, but it did start lightening up a lot once I got passed the outer layer.
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VFX Freak
Sr Member
Trooper_trent, thanks for taking another shot at this and especially for posting your progress. I did wet-sand mine so I'll have another go with everything dry.
So. Tired. Of. Sanding...
So. Tired. Of. Sanding...
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lol! Easier for you :lol. Of course I would have preferred to get one of your steel barrels, but since that didn't work out, spending an hour sanding and polishing to get at least a decently similar look, is pretty much my only option.
Trooper_trent has nailed it I think. I will be using the method it looks great!
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Trickshot72
Member
Ha ha!, mate, that's funny. Yeah, that seems to be pretty much how it works. The greatest lesson I have learned on my collecting journey is patience. You will always have another chance. I also collect original comic art and that is much, much worse because there is only one of each drawing. Best of luck to you my friend.
