Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming

[Nwerke]

I had no idea this was possible. Amazing! When I finally get around to tearing mine down to fit the steel barrel, I'll give it a try just for the hell of it.

 

[Trickshot72]

It is a great kit...but considering they reached out to Richard Coyle for specific details on the actual prop, I would say Rich still makes the most accurate kits and fully built models available.

Agreed, especially the grip colour, but they are rather soft and fragile. If you dropped a tomenosuke it would probably be ok. I you dropped a coyle, it could well be ruined.

 

[racprops]

I HAVE dropped a couple of mine, once out of a holster when wearing it at a con, minor damage, as in a dent is all so far.

I would wonder how well a plastic pistol frame would handle all that metal hung onto it, my metal bends, plastic breaks.

I don't know if their plastic will break or not BUT consider this, I can be reached for parts and repairs, can they?

Rich

 

[Trickshot72]

I'm sure you've seen these before but if not, they are pictures of the blaster when it was delivered to the set and they should help with seeing how the firearm was finished.

View attachment 206061

View attachment 206062

Wow! I have never seen these photo's. What an absolutely gorgeous prop. Do we know who it's original creator is?. Did his ideas come from what he had lying around, what he could see?. Just the idea of putting the Steyr reciever on top of .44 revolver. Really, it must have been a fluke. It's just so right, and beautiful in ways I cannot describe. I loved this before I had any ideas what it was. It was a Coyle that I saw first.
These builds are terrific fella's - many thanks for sharing.

 

[Trickshot72]

Ted you're very close to right.

The Hero is seen along the wall, note the white wires.

ONLY at the last second just before Batty punches though the wall do we see the stunt and yes you can see the seam AND That the grip is broken near the top screw.

And of course you see the stunt when Leon bats it out of Deckard's hand..(perhaps he should have been called Batty??)

I bet this where the stunt got its broken grip.

The stunt should have been used when he drops the gun climbing that shelf unit BUT the shot of the gun bouncing off the floor IS the hero: A) the green and red LEDs are very visible, B) as is the cocking lever which swings out in one bounce. C) Also the white wires can been seen. Details missing on the stunt.

Funny as the hero also has a broken grip so I bet this is where it got it. Also the left side cover is also broken and cracked...

My 2 cents worth.

Rich

Dear Mr Coyle. May I ask, do you think that the ABS plastic parts on the pro kit will take a chrome plating?.

 

[racprops]

ON those photos they are misleading...they were shot under poor lighting, if you put them into photoshop and lighten/brighten them then it looks more like the worldcon gun.

Second, ABS should be chrome plate-able, BUT with the metal content of this plastic (as reported here) it could be better or worst.

I would suggest stopping at the nickle layer, as in nickle plating, chrome plate is added to nickle. Then you might be able to blu the nickle..not sure never tried.

Of interest I can have my pewter Nickle Plated and even then Gold Plate or Chrome Plated.

Rich

 

[Trickshot72]

I HAVE dropped a couple of mine, once out of a holster when wearing it at a con, minor damage, as in a dent is all so far.

I would wonder how well a plastic pistol frame would handle all that metal hung onto it, my metal bends, plastic breaks.

I don't know if their plastic will break or not BUT consider this, I can be reached for parts and repairs, can they?

Rich

I had no idea that you could. How wonderful. Rich, would you have any idea how I could aquire a set of clear grips?. Would a pair of your grips fit a Tomenosuke?. I have an idea for a chrome blaster with clear grips. This will be accompanied by the latest version of your worldcon model if I ever again have that good fortune. Thank's so much for taking the time to correspond.

 

[Trickshot72]

ON those photos they are misleading...they were shot under poor lighting, if you put them into photoshop and lighten/brighten them then it looks more like the worldcon gun.

Second, ABS should be chrome plate-able, BUT with the metal content of this plastic (as reported here) it could be better or worst.

I would suggest stopping at the nickle layer, as in nickle plating, chrome plate is added to nickle. Then you might be able to blu the nickle..not sure never tried.

Of interest I can have my pewter Nickle Plated and even then Gold Plate or Chrome Plated.

Rich

I think gold may be a step to far. In my opinion, to have one of your blasters in anything other than worldcon just wouldn't feel right. Sacreligious even. I don't mind being creative with the Tomenosuke kit, it doesn't have any soul.

 

[racprops]

Sorry No.

We are not running the same holes and shape and size.

There was a project on propsummit to do the amber grips and later PERHAPS then clear.


Rich

I had no idea that you could. How wonderful. Rich, would you have any idea how I could aquire a set of clear grips?. Would a pair of your grips fit a Tomenosuke?. I have an idea for a chrome blaster with clear grips. This will be accompanied by the latest version of your worldcon model if I ever again have that good fortune. Thank's so much for taking the time to correspond.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks.

Rich

I think gold may be a step to far. In my opinion, to have one of your blasters in anything other than worldcon just wouldn't feel right. Sacreligious even. I don't mind being creative with the Tomenosuke kit, it doesn't have any soul.

 

[racprops]

See??Note how dark the black parts are:

I'm sure you've seen these before but if not, they are pictures of the blaster when it was delivered to the set and they should help with seeing how the firearm was finished.

View attachment 206061

View attachment 206062

Wow! I have never seen these photo's. What an absolutely gorgeous prop. Do we know who it's original creator is?. Did his ideas come from what he had lying around, what he could see?. Just the idea of putting the Steyr reciever on top of .44 revolver. Really, it must have been a fluke. It's just so right, and beautiful in ways I cannot describe. I loved this before I had any ideas what it was. It was a Coyle that I saw first.
These builds are terrific fella's - many thanks for sharing.

 

[VFX Freak]

Another question for those who have successfully blued their zinc parts. Which bluing chemical worked best for you and did you dilute it? Here's why I ask:

- I polished the zinc parts to a mirror polish and neither the Casey's Perma Blue or Super Blue affected the metal at all. And I mean zilch.

- Casey's Aluminum Black, on the other hand, turns the part a very dark smoky black right away, like it's working too well. I want to achieve the blue/black look, but I think the chemical is reacting way too fast. I'm using the Casey swabs and wiping the chemical off within about 20 to 30 seconds and then rubbing Barricade into the parts. Still too black. A matte black. Not what I'm looking for.

Any tips from the experts out there? Thanks!

 

[mtrixman]

You can distill aluminum black with water to slow down the blackening of the parts. I believe to get the perfect Blue finish, you need to let the black parts sit overnight to "cure" to some degree and polish the hell out of it (and repeat)

Another question for those who have successfully blued their zinc parts. Which bluing chemical worked best for you and did you dilute it? Here's why I ask:

- I polished the zinc parts to a mirror polish and neither the Casey's Perma Blue or Super Blue affected the metal at all. And I mean zilch.

- Casey's Aluminum Black, on the other hand, turns the part a very dark smoky black right away, like it's working too well. I want to achieve the blue/black look, but I think the chemical is reacting way too fast. I'm using the Casey swabs and wiping the chemical off within about 20 to 30 seconds and then rubbing Barricade into the parts. Still too black. A matte black. Not what I'm looking for.

Any tips from the experts out there? Thanks!

 

[VFX Freak]

Thanks for the tip, mtrixman. I guess in the polishing process I remove a lot of the oxidized metal to get back to a shiny surface, then repeat, repeat, repeat, and eventually I should get back to a shiny, and hopefully deep, blue. Funny thing is I managed it once with a test piece, and I haven't been able to repeat it since. Eventually I'll learn to write down exactly what works...

 

[Trickshot72]

In other words, someone in German customs is a BIG fan of Blade Runner...:behave

Exactly!.

 

[Marv]

Going to sound like an odd question, but how many tones of colour would you say the blade runner blaster has, and to what extent of the blaster would the hand grips cover? Would principle colour apply to the hand grips?

 

[Nwerke]

- I polished the zinc parts to a mirror polish and neither the Casey's Perma Blue or Super Blue affected the metal at all. And I mean zilch.

There's your problem. Scotchbrite them lightly instead, then blue, THEN polish...polishing first is either putting a barrier of polish on top of the metal or simply removing too much of the grainy microstructure for the blue to bite, or both.

 

[Nwerke]

Going to sound like an odd question, but how many tones of colour would you say the blade runner blaster has, and to what extent of the blaster would the hand grips cover? Would principle colour apply to the hand grips?

Orange! LOTS OF ORANGE!!!!!!! Easily what, 45% or so? The rest being gunmetal and black. I'd mention the red special effects LED lighting too...good luck...

 

[VFX Freak]

Thanks, Nwerke. I wondered if that might be the problem. Now I'll have to Scotchbrite my beautifully polished parts. Oh well. Interestingly I did get the Perma Blue to work by submerging the polished parts in the undiluted solution. My biggest problem comes when I try to polish after the bluing.

Here's the nice shiny part:



Here's the result after four dips of 30 seconds each with a rubdown between each. I soaked it in Barricade and let it sit for 24 hours. I began polishing with oil and a soft cloth and I got this:



I cannot get an even finish. I have prepped the parts carefully, washing off all oil or polish residue with degreaser and acetone, after which I only handle the parts wearing rubber gloves. On the plus side I'm really good now at stripping the bluing, sanding, and polishing.

Here's a close up of the trigger finish (before I strip it again) that I got using the above techniques:



I know I can do better than this, but I need a few more hints, primarily about how you polish the blued part without destroying the finish.

Thanks for reading and thanks for helping.

 

[Nwerke]

I can't help you too much there I'm afraid since I was going for a somewhat used and abused look with mine and an uneven and worn finish was what I was after - I even hit it with scotchbrite again after bluing to show wear on high points and edges. I polished mine with a soft cloth using no actual polish per se...well, er...probably a bit of general greasy-hands grease I guess, ew. Actually I wonder if vaseline might be a good option? :lol

The Caseys perma blue should bite instantly from simply brushing it on. You must have done a very good job of polishing!

If you read above in the thread you'll find a few folks have done spectacularly even, professional bluing and polishing jobs.

 

[JOATRASH FX]

I cannot get an even finish.

I used permablue directly from the bottle, rubbed in with lint-free paper and it bit directly turning it an oily black. I think you need to go back and wash it thoroughly again with dish washing liquid and then acetone. Don't just wipe the parts- rinse them good more than once. You might even need to dig in with some steel wool to expose the metal enough to take the bluing.