My BTTF Inspired Bag V2 Page 4
- Thread starter cavx
- Start date
cavx
Master Member
So that nice clear resin might be perfectly ok for clear coating and maybe even embedding objects in but it just doesn't seem to set hard forcastinf. So I am back to original epoxy that I have used many times in the past. This stuff sets rock hard and bounces when you drop it on concrete. The only issue I have with it id that it tends to go slightly yellowish over time. So I added clear blue to part A and this help keep it from going yellow.
Today I have mixed up an end cap on black and the yellow letters.
I have also made the last mold which is the body so hopefully by next week, I will have my first full plastic tube bag.
I have decided that it is best if I just get the clear windows laser cut from Perspex. Originally I was going to cast them, but not going to happen if this water clear won't set hard.
I am working on a polypropylene mat so hopefully the spills will just peel off once they set.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Today I have mixed up an end cap on black and the yellow letters.
I have also made the last mold which is the body so hopefully by next week, I will have my first full plastic tube bag.
I have decided that it is best if I just get the clear windows laser cut from Perspex. Originally I was going to cast them, but not going to happen if this water clear won't set hard.
I am working on a polypropylene mat so hopefully the spills will just peel off once they set.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
cavx
Master Member
On a side note, this stuff I am using is much lighter compared to the Perspex master parts. An example is the small parts that will be the sides of the handle recess. The Perspex master part weighs 50g. The cast part weighs just 33g. Now think of the size of the larger parts and you understand why I choose to use this stuff.
Are you still thinking about shipping them as a kit?
cavx
Master Member
If it makes it cheaper, then yes. I'd do most of the assembly as in fit the windows into the end caps, fit the handles and recesses to the lids etc.
At least the thing won't weight much. Just cubic volume is the issue now.
cavx
Master Member
Demold time. Both the lid and the body came out nice. The end cap looks good but will need a slight sand at the rim.
This plastic is neat. Very light and right now, a slight bit of flex which is probably a good thing during this stage.
The only thing I need to do is find a more solid yellow. The yellow I have seems to be translucent and after gluing the letters in place, just aren't yellow like they should be. Anyway that part is trivial as the mold used to align them worked out really good.
I will be able to paint them once I find a solid yellow. I do like the raised letters.
The lid was baked last night for three hours. The body has not been baked, rather just cold formed. Yet both parts seem to have the same ridigity.
To ensure that I get really even pours, I have made a 3 point leveling sytem that the rubber molds can sit on. The leveling points are M10 thread adjusted.
I still have to make the handles.
Here are some progress pics.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
This plastic is neat. Very light and right now, a slight bit of flex which is probably a good thing during this stage.
The only thing I need to do is find a more solid yellow. The yellow I have seems to be translucent and after gluing the letters in place, just aren't yellow like they should be. Anyway that part is trivial as the mold used to align them worked out really good.
I will be able to paint them once I find a solid yellow. I do like the raised letters.
The lid was baked last night for three hours. The body has not been baked, rather just cold formed. Yet both parts seem to have the same ridigity.
To ensure that I get really even pours, I have made a 3 point leveling sytem that the rubber molds can sit on. The leveling points are M10 thread adjusted.
I still have to make the handles.
Here are some progress pics.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
cavx
Master Member
2nd end cap and lid set has been poured. Hopefully I can demold this afternoon.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Holy mother of God :eek
cavx
Master Member
cavx
Master Member
So after wracking my brain on how do this handle for a few hours, I finally came up with a part that will both reinforce the lids as well as be a strong point to lift from.
One part that was brought to my attention was there is a gap between the actual grip and the recess edges. Looking at reference photos, and it looked like the part that holds the handles would have to made from metal (something I didn't want to) and in the end, I came up a part that can be molded and cast in plastic. Off to the Laser Cutters on Tuesday
One part that was brought to my attention was there is a gap between the actual grip and the recess edges. Looking at reference photos, and it looked like the part that holds the handles would have to made from metal (something I didn't want to) and in the end, I came up a part that can be molded and cast in plastic. Off to the Laser Cutters on Tuesday
67Beatle88
Active Member
Oh my gosh!!!
