In theory, yes, you could putty the gap or something similar. But the way that Bandai have engineered this kit is that they made the cake section removable to access the switch for the lighting, which I just went along with. I have an IR remote powering the engines, but the main LED strip is still accessed by removing the cake section. I'm still trying to think of a workaround there.
Look what I found on page 2, waiting for a build update!
Am I right in thinking that some of the studio models had T shape engine struts and some had a triangle profile?
I was planning to use 3mm brass 90degree angles, and making them into triangles by adding styrene to cover the open side.
For the pipes I think I worked out that they would be roughly 1.5mm, based on scaling up the .stl files (so assuming the stl files are correct). I bought brass rod as I think it will be easier to work with than styrene.
oh well done Steven! Very well deserved
I also like your SD pictures. Maybe I could persuade you into doing something like that for mine when its done?