My experience with bates was a rollercoaster. It took over a year. The price of that jacket was $1,550. They measured me personally. And when I received it, the size was way off. The fit you see was achieved by my running a $1,550 jacket through a double wash cycle at 180d f, then drying it on high to about half-dry and wearing/stretching it the rest of the way. Bates is a small family shop. They can fit "normal" people fine. But I'm a weightlifter. They measured me and I gave them guidance on how other tailors fit me. They pretty much ignored me. That was frustrating - but it's why I thought I was paying so much for a real custom fit. After the words we exchanged, they will no longer accept my business, but I would never give it to them again. I also have a Terminator jacket they made at the same time. It was part of the drama. The waist was 4+ inches too big - even with everything cinched-up. I joked that they are used to fitting fat guys...
I'm sure a more "normal" physiqued person would have better luck. The quality is great. They do great detailed and durable work. But for that price I expect them to listen better.
So, yeah... I'd still recommend Vanson over Bates. When Vsnson had a similar problem nailing my size, they took back a finished custom jacket and fixed the pattern. They insisted on it. In the same situation, Bates BLAMED ME for it.
And the Vanson is a better jacket. I've owned dozens of jackets. The Vanson is better made and the quality and consistency of materials is far superior.
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