Will Turner impersonation cosplay costume, Orlando Bloom impersonation cosplay costume

[joberg]

A little pause for now. I am awaiting a specialty cording foot "double piping foot" for my sewing machine to put on the keyhole piping behind every button. My attempts on scrap, without the new foot, were horrifying. Will await the proper tool before moving on these. But it gives me time to build in these staged pinch points.

Fabric glue wouldn't work on that piping? I've done some piping like that before. Cut the pattern of it in a cardboard as to be exact with the form each time; place it where it's supposed to be and glue the piping following the pattern...done
If you want to sew them one by one, then you have all my admiration

 

[greenmachines]

Fabric glue wouldn't work on that piping? I've done some piping like that before. Cut the pattern of it in a cardboard as to be exact with the form each time; place it where it's supposed to be and glue the piping following the pattern...done
If you want to sew them one by one, then you have all my admiration

Thank you

 

[greenmachines]

Thank you

So glue wins out in testing. Kudos to joberg .... but here is the backstory: I ordered a double piping foot that still has not arrived, ordered a second one that did. Attempts were sporadic for outcome. Mainly, this is because I could only find this size cording in hair ties. The elastic in the hair tie does not sew well or at all, at times...

This first attempt looked great.... then this....

So, no sew. This next one is glued.

I also ended up needing to add some length and glued an extra inch on the ones going on the coat front. The glue joint will hide under the button. The shorter one is for the cuff.

16 total lapel length pieces, at 3.25 inch finished length and 8 for cuff length at 2.75 inch finished length.

 

[greenmachines]

As you might have noticed, I am doing a lot of sample testing, NOT on the actual coat. I do not want to damage this coat. So here is my last post stalling the inevitable.... Here are the button position pics. 8 on each lapel front, 3 on each cuff front and one on each cuff back:

Of note: The first lapel button is only about one and one half inches ( roughly ) from the collar and the gap between it and the second button down is shorter than the consistent gap of the remaining buttons. Due to varying coat sizes for anyone who builds this, you will need to make it look correct for your coat. So about 1 inch maybe 1.25 to outside edge of first button, which equates to 1.75 inches to center sewing point of the first button and then the short jump to the next button, then longer but equal spaced gaps for the rest, down to button eight, which is positioned one full gap below the belt (as pictured).

 

[joberg]

I've worked with these hair elastics before. Dabbing crazy glue on them (almost to the soaking state and on the entire length) removes a lot of headache Take a pair of tweezers and just let the glue flow freely onto the elastic. You'll notice, right away, that the fabric + elastic is "fusing" together, while still leaving the whole manageable and bendable. Your fabric glue will have more "teeth" if you will, and the whole thing will look the part for sure.
The great thing also is that you can paint them with any color you need You're right by testing on other piece of fabric! Here's a pic of my 2001 Moonbus; the engine bells were adorned with thin hair elastics to add the detailing needed to finish-off those and respect the original model.

 

[greenmachines]

As you might have noticed, I am doing a lot of sample testing, NOT on the actual coat. I do not want to damage this coat. So here is my last post stalling the inevitable.... Here are the button position pics. 8 on each lapel front, 3 on each cuff front and one on each cuff back:

View attachment 1647141View attachment 1647142

Of note: The first lapel button is only about one and one half inches ( roughly ) from the collar and the gap between it and the second button down is shorter than the consistent gap of the remaining buttons. Due to varying coat sizes for anyone who builds this, you will need to make it look correct for your coat. So about 1 inch maybe 1.25 to outside edge of first button, which equates to 1.75 inches to center sewing point of the first button and then the short jump to the next button, then longer but equal spaced gaps for the rest, down to button eight, which is positioned one full gap below the belt (as pictured).

My final measurements (coat size L) for button placement was 1.75 inches from the collar bottom to the first button center, then 3 inches to the next and 3.5 inches per jump to the remaining 6 on both lapels. I followed near to the guidance from joberg, minus the tweezers. So now I have very shiny fingerprints but the braiding turned out perfect, or close enough for a photo shoot for sure. The tweezers are advised for the purpose of avoiding the white areas where glue contacts skin. That then requires another color pass to black. Laziness costs in the end. Cuffs next, then buttons. Of note: cording starts at the lapel edge. (not all humans have the same torso length but my last button is about 2.5 inches above breeches inseem in crotch, near match to photos)

NOTE: Measure and place sewing pins at each button hole position prior to adding cordage. Because no sewing will be done along cordage, some pre sewing must be done to solidify the lapel so it won't unfold. At each pin location, sew from lapel edge in towards button location and past. (If you were standing, wearing the coat these sewing paths would be horizontal, from lapel edge toward arm. 90 degrees to lapel edge.) Sew as far as you need to connect all layers of the folded lapel material but be careful not to sew farther than the length of your cording. You do not want to see a sew line that cannot be hidden by the glued on cordage to come.

 

[greenmachines]

The button layout on the cuffs is 3 across the front half.

Lay the cuff flat and measuring from the cuff seam (front half sewn to back half) to end of cuff, then divide by 4. If you wish, you can place one in the direct center and then using your divided by 4 measurement, place one on each side of the center one. You are essentially dividing the cuff width into four equal sections. Glue your cording in the right shape first(before placing on cuff), as described earlier (use a cardboard template or hold the cording, folded in half, ends meeting). I glues the ends side by side first, then moved along the length, leaving the keyhole looking end. The cuff cording is shorter than the lapel so it does not need extra length added, mine was 2 and 3/4 inch when finished. I put pins in where I was about to glue my cording so that I was not guessing. Glue the cut end down first (cut tips toward sleeve opening.... down towards hands). After the initial glue has set, you can glue carefully up to the keyhole portion making sure to keep the cording 90 degrees to the cuff end ( pointing back up the sleeve). When the front cording is complete, the one and only back-of-cuff cording goes on the back flap at the exact spot the one on the front does on that end of the cuff, not the sewn side. Refer to pic....

 

[greenmachines]

OK, the long avoided ALTERATIONS section. The easiest way to think about these explanations is to understand I followed the original 4923 pattern and instructions first, then altered. I apologize but this is the process I followed.

First the sleeve. The opening was far too large to match Will's, so I trimmed it. See pic here:

I then altered the cuff to match not only the new sleeve opening width but to make them rectangles. See pics for comparison to originals and for sizing to a size Large coat.

The pocket flap alteration eliminates the scallops on the flap bottom and replaces it with the following:

I just drew a straight line above the scallops to form this envelope flap look.

The coat bottom: I removed all of the three expansion flap areas. I can't remember what they are called. I then sewed the front to the back all the way down the side where these expansions had been. This left only the back central slit. Make sure to create a small overlap but leave the back slit. It looks like there is no open flap when the overlap is in place but it can still open. At this point I realized there was way to much girth on the bottom so I trimmed the front and back panels at the same time (they were currently sewn together, see pics).

After pinning along the pink ruler line, I cut the material which cut the front and back panels at the same time. Measurements are in the pics above.

Cutting only on that edge where front meets back not the back to back center seam. This will be done twice for the two seams that are front back connection seams.

The lapel: This first pic is the lapel as per the original pattern.

It reaches well past center chest. I folded it back 2.5 inches on both lapels, evenly down the vertical lapel leading edge.

This is how it fits after:

(The final lapel sewing was done while adding the cordage, see previous cordage entry and pic here)

The collar: After the lapel was sewn back, mostly tacking and ironing, I measured the distance around the neck opening and created 2 two-layer rectangles sewn along the long edges and turned inside out and ironed flat (you may need to look up a how-to on doing this, similar to making cloth belts). The height is 2 and 1/4 inch when finished so make sure to add in your favorite seam allowance. I used 5/8 so mine was originally 3.5. I left the ends unsewn. I sewed one of these onto the neck overlapping the outside of the neck opening by about 1/8 inch using hand stitching. I put on the jacket and drew the line for the collar angle to match the lapel. I then cut about 1/4 inch past that (making it 1/4 longer than neck opening). I then tucked the 1/4 extra inside the collar end and hand stitched it closed to match the angle coming up from the lapel. I then used the first one as my pattern for the second one. I finished the ends of the second one before sewing the second one against the first, inside the neck, with the bottom of the collar now inside the neck opening overlapping the same 1/8th inch. I used hand stitching for most of this. Outside pic first, then inside:

 

[greenmachines]

Just for fun, these are two identical poses but they decided there was too much coat in the one and photoshopped out the fold:

Notice it has only 4 buttons.

 

[joberg]

Looking good so far. I like the fact that you remove some of the fabric from the opening of the sleeves. Those red folded cuffs will have to hold!
Glad that your fingers are alright after that crazy glue part of the build; always use acetone to remove it from said fingers

Very annoying those pics; one is showing, as you said, 5 buttons and the other only 4. I prefer the 5 buttons myself.
Is the coat fabric heavy enough to "fall" neatly over your body? (fabric weight is always important as you know).

 

[greenmachines]

Looking good so far. I like the fact that you remove some of the fabric from the opening of the sleeves. Those red folded cuffs will have to hold!
Glad that your fingers are alright after that crazy glue part of the build; always use acetone to remove it from said fingers

Very annoying those pics; one is showing, as you said, 5 buttons and the other only 4. I prefer the 5 buttons myself.
Is the coat fabric heavy enough to "fall" neatly over your body? (fabric weight is always important as you know).

After the lapels were folded rather than cut it added enough weight to hang appropriately but I am not against adding some liner if it seems too flowy. I am now nit picking different things I don't like and will take a few days to correct these. Then it is on to aging everything.

 

[joberg]

After the lapels were folded rather than cut it added enough weight to hang appropriately but I am not agsinst adding some liner if it seems too flowy. I am now nit picking different things I don't like and will take a few days to correct these. Then it is on to aging everything.

Liner or weights in the bottom seam

 

[greenmachines]

After having the buttons and cording attached, the expected and inevitable happened. Exactly what had caused me to avoid the coat for so long. Buttons are too big and the cording too long. It is repairable but only with another round of casting buttons and folding back a half inch of lapel. So here are my current pics with the big buttons. Now that I have done more onscreen measuring, I believe the buttons to be one inch diameter and the cording to be 2.75 inch long (identical to the length I had for the cuff cording). Some progress already. Pics below. These first pics are of the buttons that I believe to be too big.

It is a trick of the light making that one cuff button look smaller.

So I have made a one inch button to compare:

Thoughts and opinions needed. Please let me know what you think as my button process has already produced the new batch but not yet sanded and painted, nor shanked and my next step would be to cut the leading edge off the cording and fold the lapel under by another 3/4 inch to shorten the cording to 2.75. I can no longer remove the looped end of the cording as it is firmly attached and would leave obvious marks.

 

[joberg]

It seems that 2 buttons could be place side-by-side on the cording; leaving the exact 1/4 inches of cording on each side.
To make myself clearer: 1/4 inches of cording (opened ends) + 2 buttons side-by-side + 1/4 inches of cording (loop end). That should give you a very good idea of how big your buttons should be.

 

[greenmachines]

I cast 24 new buttons from the one I shaved down in my previous post (Dec 15th). The above is a side by side of Orlando's button and then mine. Matching pic is for size only, lighting is way dark which is not representative of the actual color. I am happy with the new button and have replaced all 24 buttons on the coat. I realized I skipped sewing on the pocket flaps, so maybe tonight.... Then we are down to aging and weathering. Sooooo close. Maybe a trial pic in full suit but I am thinking more along the lines of wait for the reveal. I have some hair coloring to complete and need to grow and color his very minor facial hair. I found that my gold loop earring was too large, so more shopping to do or possibly make one.

 

[joberg]

Looking way better now

 

[greenmachines]

Small addition of the earring. I couldn't find one I like so I looked for the right thickness brass. Found a stone makeup roller at the Dollar tree...

and clipped off the brass and shaped it...

Wrong side, yes, just trying it on,

and the comp picture....

 

[greenmachines]

Obviously, Will is practically bronzed, so I was expecting the need for tanning but he also has very black facial hair that is likely enhanced with colorant. Here is my photo test in my face split comparison. I am on the right.

Lighting is different. His is open sunlight on site at the shoot of the final scene for the reunion with his family at the end of Dead Men Tell No Tales. Mine is in my living room. I have some plucking to do to flatten the top of my eyebrow but facial hair seems to be a match. I was not wearing my brown contacts. Let me know what else you see that needs to change. I will be using spray tan and darkening the facial hair as well.

 

[joberg]

Yes; your face closely resemble that of Orlando Eye brows should be straighter and as you said, darker.
The hair, of the mustache, should be comb down; yours are going toward your left ear on the pic.
Beside that and seeing the pic, I don't see anything else.

 

[greenmachines]

Yes; your face closely resemble that of Orlando Eye brows should be straighter and as you said, darker.
The hair, of the mustache, should be comb down; yours are going toward your left ear on the pic.
Beside that and seeing the pic, I don't see anything else.

Thank you. I had not noticed the mustache but knew it bugged me. Just couldn't grasp why. I can do some steam and relaxer cream to match the direction. The brow will require a little fill in toward the nose but maybe that is just shading. Not sure yet. I did some fill in for previous builds but never brow hair.