Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
I was wondering if I could get some suggestions on what people use for filler on resin kits, fiberglass lids, etc. I am using Bondo right now and I don't like it all too much and was wondering what my options are.
What do you guys use for filler?
- Thread starter Darth Kahnt
- Start date
Sidewinder
Sr Member
Milliput, s'what I use.
SAS
SAS
It all depends on what you are trying to fill - the material and the nature of the gap or hole.
For large holes/gaps, or to build up a surface area quickly, I do prefer Bondo. I've learned a couple of tricks that make dealing with it easier:
Don't wait till it has completely hardened to start trimming it. Once it has started to go off, there will be a time where you can trim the excess away with a sharp knife. By minimizing the amount of area that you have to get rid of after its hardened, the less dust and sweat you'll need later.
You can use laquer thinner to smooth the edges of fresh Bondo in order to feather them. This has to be done while the Bondo is new, and it will affect the hardening time.
Of course, your surface needs to be able to handle the Bondo in the first place. Fiberglass and resin are fine. Styrene is OK (but be careful of heat buildup and the reaction to laquer thinner). Vinyl - wouldn't try it.
Spot or glazing putty works better for smaller dings and scratches. This stuff air dries without a catalyst. Can't build it up as thick as quickly as you can with Bondo. There will be some shrinkage as it dries, so plan on a couple of coats between sanding.
Milliput or the two part epoxy putty from Tamiya also have to be mixed. But they have the advantage of being less toxic than Bondo and can be smoothed into shape using water and not laquer thinner. They will take several hours to overnight to cure.
In all cases, I use coarse sandpaper and LOTS of water to get the basic shape down, proceeding with finer grades of wet/dry sandpaper (with LOTS of water) to get it smoothed and polished.
Go out and pick up this stuff and just spend an afternoon experimenting and see what you prefer. That's why I keep junk parts and excess trims from old kits - good base to experiment from.
Gene
For large holes/gaps, or to build up a surface area quickly, I do prefer Bondo. I've learned a couple of tricks that make dealing with it easier:
Don't wait till it has completely hardened to start trimming it. Once it has started to go off, there will be a time where you can trim the excess away with a sharp knife. By minimizing the amount of area that you have to get rid of after its hardened, the less dust and sweat you'll need later.
You can use laquer thinner to smooth the edges of fresh Bondo in order to feather them. This has to be done while the Bondo is new, and it will affect the hardening time.
Of course, your surface needs to be able to handle the Bondo in the first place. Fiberglass and resin are fine. Styrene is OK (but be careful of heat buildup and the reaction to laquer thinner). Vinyl - wouldn't try it.
Spot or glazing putty works better for smaller dings and scratches. This stuff air dries without a catalyst. Can't build it up as thick as quickly as you can with Bondo. There will be some shrinkage as it dries, so plan on a couple of coats between sanding.
Milliput or the two part epoxy putty from Tamiya also have to be mixed. But they have the advantage of being less toxic than Bondo and can be smoothed into shape using water and not laquer thinner. They will take several hours to overnight to cure.
In all cases, I use coarse sandpaper and LOTS of water to get the basic shape down, proceeding with finer grades of wet/dry sandpaper (with LOTS of water) to get it smoothed and polished.
Go out and pick up this stuff and just spend an afternoon experimenting and see what you prefer. That's why I keep junk parts and excess trims from old kits - good base to experiment from.
Gene
Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
I'm filling a bubble in one of the tusk portions of my GH ANH Vader helmet. Would spot putty be ok for that or just go with the bondo?
I do have an expoxy putty at my house. Maybe I should try that? How well will primer adhere to it?
I do have an expoxy putty at my house. Maybe I should try that? How well will primer adhere to it?
vaderdarth
Master Member
DK, I had to fill in tusk bubbles more than once over the last few years........the bondo always works well for me. Primer is never an issue with the red filler putty by Bondo.
Dave
Dave
Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
Cool, thanks Dave and everyone else. Gonna do that tonight when I get home.
ob1al
Sr Member
greatwazoo42
Master Member
Ethernopians.
Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
Thanks Al. Is the standard stuff the best to get? I am going to buy some to try it out.
Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
Great. Gonna order some. You can never have too much stuff in your shop.
Roger Ramjet
Sr Member
I like the Squadron Putty for bubbles, dents and dings....
belloq
Sr Member
I've used Magic-Sculp (2 part putty) to repair breaks or holes in urethane resin castings with great success. Smooths with water and has a decent working time. Perhaps it is similar to milliput. Does anyone have any experience with Magic-Sculp on fiberglass to fill or reshape helmet areas, etc.?
Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
Im trying the bondo putty on it right now. Ill post pics to my GH progress thread and let you all know what I think of it.
NakedMoleRat
Master Member
I always use JB Quick for most everything. Mixes well, sets quick, low odor, and sands smooth.
Jedi Lawja
Well-Known Member
I use Bondo for a general purpose filler, but if I'm trying to do more than fill in air bubbles I'll go with the Miliput. I also discovered that denatured alcohol will thin Bondo. I've found this particularly useful when filling an area with LOTS of pinholes - real tiny ones. Put some Bondo on a mixing card (whatever you use to mix Epoxy, etc. on) and while stiring slowly add a few drops of the alcohol. When it's a little more pliable smooth a layer over the area to be filled. I often use my fingers to spread the Bondo evenly and smoothly.
Jay
Jay
Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
The bondo putty seems to do the job well. It sands pretty easily too, which is a bonus. I am going to do the final layer tonight.
I am worried about how well it will bond to the fiberglass. The bondo is right in a spot I have to drill a hole in to place a tusk on the helmet.
I am worried about how well it will bond to the fiberglass. The bondo is right in a spot I have to drill a hole in to place a tusk on the helmet.
Jedirick
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(UFP-1701 @ Jan 24 2007, 03:48 PM) [snapback]1404171[/snapback]</div>
How do you use it successfully?
I have had nothing but frustratingly inconsistent results on urethane resin items.
I'm a 2 part epoxy guy. I like milliputty when I can find it around here. Almost any 2 part epoxt putty will work. Just look at package applications and dry time. Some take up to 24 hours for each 1/8" application before you can sand.
How do you use it successfully?
I have had nothing but frustratingly inconsistent results on urethane resin items.
I'm a 2 part epoxy guy. I like milliputty when I can find it around here. Almost any 2 part epoxt putty will work. Just look at package applications and dry time. Some take up to 24 hours for each 1/8" application before you can sand.
Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
Wow, this Milliputty is hard to find. Seems I need to order some from Toronto. I have to buy $50 minimum. I don't think I will need that much. Anyone here interested in some if I order it for cost plus shipping?
