Vader ROTJ stunt (MoM) build

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


cdyoung

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I’d like to hear anyone’s past build experiences with the Vader ROTJ stunt saber from MoM.

Did you use a template, such as provided by obi1kenny, for drilling the upper?


Any sage advice for this build is most welcome. Please show off your finished Vader ROTJ sabers!
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Sym-Cha

Master Member
Just make certain you don't drill the holes to big ... perhaps even slightly smaller then the screws otherwise you'll expose the brass underneath and the holes appear oval not round ... which happened with the purchased vintage DV ROTJ that I received :

DV-6A_zpsbjnbouo9.JPG


DV-6B_zpsqiagzy8d.JPG


I never finished mine with this top, I purchased another 2 Cell to upgrade the top part ... also you can always file the holes a bit larger if need be!

Chaïm

P.S. If you need more reference pictures of the original DV ROTJ stunt lightsaber ... just ask :)
 

cdyoung

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks, Sym-Cha. I gathered some reference photos of Vader’s ROTJ stunt saber from various forum threads. If anyone requests credit for a photo, please let me know, and I’ll make the update. If I’m missing any key photos, please send me a PM or add them to the discussion here. Hopefully, others will find these visual references helpful for their builds, as well.

431C4744-7CFB-4483-809E-055776B32326.jpeg
F1F0C66A-AAB0-42DD-9E60-5E1F3EFEB648.jpeg 5A5C244E-96D5-4495-BE48-2D9F69E592C8.jpeg CCCACA36-DFF5-4EB2-A214-6D5FD31FD9CB.jpeg

58A7BE28-FE80-4320-9F90-3D45EAC6C465.jpeg A3CE699F-78DB-402E-AF82-448C9D2EDE7F.jpeg D5DA750D-8C69-43C7-ADBE-4F2ED6E313D4.jpeg B2CCDC92-07CA-4245-97FD-1D7DBE9F788D.jpeg FD1A35D9-EFA2-4BA7-B81B-A79E847FE552.jpeg 67164277-7985-4BA2-9E96-3368D5F89B74.jpeg C4BE6BE5-D766-47DC-8645-4EFBE766A822.jpeg D5D26117-EFE3-4EF1-8267-7142748368D7.jpeg 62EC93D9-FA6A-4D0C-8BA7-A153931E3C32.jpeg C0B0D3DB-3F9E-4CD5-8C8D-92A820A94776.jpeg 6B062EC9-2215-4903-B7CD-BDD4AB88B63E.jpeg 72937587-C377-4437-A530-2E7966D552C3.jpeg 13C5BBD3-435E-452D-9D1F-F34D58F9484D.jpeg D1410584-FF2E-4E68-9C23-87D2A45EFCBB.jpeg CFAA2007-9A6D-457A-A63F-F3BC58491479.jpeg 49845725-4E7A-4FD1-9C11-B303FE5C516A.jpeg 7579B4A6-3CB9-450B-BDF6-98AF4EF3B1B9.jpeg D6BFDD3A-FF08-4E8D-94EA-A785C94FCDBC.jpeg 6276A902-109F-423F-9F1A-CB03FF623DB3.jpeg 493CFEBB-D5FE-4E80-918B-7C8CF6508742.jpeg 824F38CE-20B0-41A2-981B-D0C79D8DCAEB.jpeg 36676916-EBD1-4523-AA2D-F592F5106B2C.jpeg 437980DB-F56A-4D19-9C00-9DF2981D6801.jpeg
 
Last edited:

LOM

Well-Known Member

That's what I've got on this hilt. It's more or less the same as what you've got but there are a few other ones in there + larger resolution ones. These mostly came from threads here, Facebook, and Flickr.. Unfortunately I don't have proper credits either for most.

Though I do recall:
-The Original Prop Blog
-Rogue Designer
-Smithsonian
-Various Visual Dictionaries

Hope this helps!

I really got to build one of these sometime...

Should be some good info on it here, despite the broken pics and formatting:
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So, I have some insight on this saber.. based on some experiments I did.

It's been reported that this saber is HEAVY and that (for me) confirmed my suspicions. Someone here showed me the emitter has metal in it. Basically this means there is a metal 'puck' replacing the upper 1/3 of the socket. Then there is the middle 2/3 of the socket. 3/3 is gone and replaced by a solid metal lug that stretches along the upper half.

a few of those bolts used to go through the clamp (now on the V3) and that means this has a LONG core. Longer than the pipe stunt or the ESB Era Barbican.

So if you can sand down a piece of aluminum round, and stuff it in the upper half, and get a piece cut for the socket, you're golden for accuracy. I THINK there is a larger grub screw embedded in the core to hold the tang. Or it's threaded into the core, but I don't see why they couldn't just unscrew the blade tang if that were the case.

The black oxide countersunk bolts are M5 based on the head size.

Edit: M6!
 
Last edited:

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

cdyoung

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Well, this wouldn't be a stunt saber thread without some excellent input from LOM and thd9791! Thanks guys.

Internal construction is one aspect of this hilt I hadn't even begun to consider yet, since I was more focused on getting the main parts together and forming a plan for the overall assembly. Thanks for addressing that aspect of the build, thd9791!
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Absolutely! You get stuck trying to add the black bolts without having anything to screw them into. I guess you could use PVC or just nuts but that's less fun lol

Also, the collar, switch box, D ring cap, bottom cap, are all still mysteries. We don't even know how the top and bottom are held together! The collar LOOKS metal, but I can't figure out if its a found part or scratch built.
 

LOM

Well-Known Member
Always happy to help! :)

Regarding the weight that thd mentioned - I believe the story is that Bob Anderson specifically requested a heavier counterweight modification to this hilt for the scene where Luke 'chops wood' in RotJ (I think it was first mentioned in the OT Blade thread or Halliwax Weird V3 Theory thread?). So a lot of the weight is going to be on the bottom half - that bit of brass we see peeking through the endcap is probably a big chunk of brass.** ((Probably the same stuff crammed in the emitter of the Barbican now - but that's just a guess))

If I recall there are some close matches for the supposed tire valve, but not an exact match?

edit: spelling
**edit 2: That doesn't make sense, we'd see the brass in the grip holes if that was the case.
 
Last edited:

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
As for this WHOLE issue about the activation box having screws in it, I totally disagree. Besides blaming the lighting again, I know of a person who has spoken with someone that knows exactly what the original box was made from - a British momentary contact switch. The part that looks like threads are actually coils.

Maybe he'll chime in. I'll give him a PM.
icon_wink.gif



(Hey, KL...would you consider asking the Admins to merge this thread with your archived one?)

Momentary switch, that's right! I had an un-named older prop guy tell me what this original part was and I just kept forgetting what the heck the name was.

This. I lose sleep wondering what came of this.
 

Benjo

New Member
I totally agree with thd9791 statement about the core. There's an inner core held by allen screws, and another metal part above the lower half of the bulb holder.
I'm currently building that prop and because I don't have any aluminium core on hand I choosed to use a 10mm diam threaded rod through the entire hilt, form to bulb holder to the cap. I use a sleeve for the middle part, and I plan to use the two screws from the activation box to hold the two halves together. I use tiny washers to hold the allen screws in place.

I want my replica to be as craptastic as the original prop, so I've distressed the hilt by shaking it inside a gravels bag to have scratches. You might consider sanding gently the lower graflex half if you're looking for the same yellowish tint as the original. That prop is a piece of junk, nothing on it seems right however this is a really cool lightsaber hilt.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Drew Baker

Sr Member
The black oxide countersunk bolts are M5 based on the head size.

I just double checked head size based on photos from LOM's folder. Rescaling for a Graflex barrel diameter of 1.5 inches I'm seeing screw heads at 0.48 inches -- just like the heads on my 1/4-20 .5 screws. Were/are M5 screws available with 12mm heads?

My own build has stalled out after trying to 3D print my own wonky shroud, but I've since picked up a real ball catch and keep meaning to get going on it again.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I just double checked head size based on photos from LOM's folder. Rescaling for a Graflex barrel diameter of 1.5 inches I'm seeing screw heads at 0.48 inches -- just like the heads on my 1/4-20 .5 screws. Were/are M5 screws available with 12mm heads?

My own build has stalled out after trying to 3D print my own wonky shroud, but I've since picked up a real ball catch and keep meaning to get going on it again.
I had a lot of difficulty with this. I've made 5 sabers with 1/4 20 bolts and none of them really looked like they were supposed to. They would seat too high and then too low, with the curvature of the tube. Also, they looked a little too big and I couldn't figure out why. (especially on the pipe stunt, but this MoM one too) I went back and analyzed some of these photos and realized the heads might be a hair smaller - around 1/5 less, 10 mm head size instead of 12 - and the closest size I can find are M5 bolts. Older bolts are usually a bit larger than they are today I'm finding.

Tom’s ROTJ Vader MOM saber!

and a really simplistic comparison for us

F84CB7EC-CF8E-4A22-9963-3E86A1046A0C_4_5005_c.jpeg
 

Sym-Cha

Master Member
So I just took measurement of the rectangular hole in my G R A F L E X as 3 mm ... then I uploaded a picture of the real MoM lightsaber in Photoshop and with the picture at the correct angle = layer 1, with help-lines and 3 x the rectangular hole being copied + original hole ... you can conclude that the black screw is at least 4 x 3 mm = 12 mm.

Schermafbeelding 2021-06-01 om 20.45.14.png


Chaïm
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Sym-Cha

Master Member
Now for those of you living in Singapore ... you can see the real DV ROTJ prop hanging on Vader's belt ... currently at the exhibition STAR WARS Identities :

darth-vader-costume.jpg


Schermafbeelding 2020-01-24 om 19.51.18.png


Chaïm
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Im doubling down on this - M6 head size matches what I see much better. AND i found a handful of ones with the larger socket I was talking about
20210605_142639.jpg

The others have such faint markings I thought the whole lot had blank heads. They show up in sunlit pictures though. Smaller socket.
20210605_142621.jpg

They are just a bit smaller than a graflex plug socket, I think this is it.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Is there any chance the mystery part on the front is not a tire valve? Like are there any better shots that show the center hole?
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top