Vader MPP lightsabers details and specifications

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

teecrooz

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
My boxed TI-2000 actually came from the calculator museum. Jeorg was glad when I told him I wanted it just as a display piece.
 

cdyoung

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'll be cutting mine down once i'm able, and i'll post the results here
Awesome! I can't wait to see your finished result along with another comparison photo with the original prop. Like other members here, I find it very interesting to think back to the time of the original prop making during the filming of ANH. If the red LED's from the Exactra 20 are so rare today, perhaps they were during filming, as well. Prop makers may have come across the red LED's from an Exactra 21 much more easily when searching for saber parts/greeblies and thought they were an interesting and sinister-looking alternative to the traditional clear bubble strip for a particular saber version (Vader V2).
 

belloq

Well-Known Member
I'll be cutting mine down once i'm able, and i'll post the results here
Cool experiment, but before you cut, please check the length spanning seven LED’s on that board. It may not scale to the full length of the MPP clamp jaws as seen in the reference photo. It might be shorter than is needed.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

SenorChang

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Cool experiment, but before you cut, please check the length spanning seven LED’s on that board. It may not scale to the full length of the MPP clamp jaws as seen in the reference photo. It might be shorter than is needed.
I'm not too fussed by accuracy with it. If it'll be too short with 7, i'll stick with whichever amount fits the clamp. I'll still take a picture to give an example for the board colour.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

JSConnolly

New Member
It makes a long time since I wanted to create this thread, because I get several real mpps now, and I had the time to check the differences and take shots, of real (several versions) and fakes (parks, MR, other)
Sadly I couldn't get the larbel version, as I wouldn't spend lots of bucks buying a mr LE edition, so I have no photos of them.
I remember just the larbel is not as good as the parks, so I decided to concentrate only on what looks good, meaning the real stuff and parks replica.
Now, Wannawanga is offering a good quality emitter, feels a hole left because no company made a correct version of the clamp, either resin or metal versions.
I also know the best available clamp is the TCSS version, because of correct shape and design on lever, aluminum ring, and quite a big, but nice shaped activation box.
Other clamp replicas are ugly and most of the times aesthetically the weak point on mpp replicas, whatever version it is.

So, let's start with the original prop version, I refer on the now well known "hollywood museum ep 6 saber"
It's based on a real MPP flashgun, here are the caracteristics, from bottom to top:
-3 lines on black ring of pommel
-tapered black bars or the clamp, damaged lever
-large "B" hole type
-flat bolts button box version
-thick aluminum lever button box version
-thick walled (?!) straight shroud, repainted
-replacement shroud bolt, made from diamond point knurled lickel plated brass
-rounded bulb holder entry

Here is a picture of two real MPP and a parks replica with blastech shroud.
the top MPP is correct ESB version, the bottom MPP is wrong but the clamp has correct bars for a ANH version.

View attachment 538207

The TCSS clamps is very close to the clamp on top real MPP, just the activator box is a bit higher and the taper a bit different, however it's very close and makes illusion once on the saber.
The Wannawanga shroud also makes illusion, because reallt close to a real deal, but also made from aluminum, unlike the blastech, made from cast black resin.
So, if you have to choose a MPP saber, the easiest way is to take a parks body, wannawanga shroud and TCSS clamp.
I will check my other pictures if I have additionnal informations, especially about the large and small "B " holes versions.

Sadly I checked my pictures nd didn't find the "B " holes comparations pics, I will check my old facebook discussion to try to get them.
Who or WHAT IS "TCSS"? And do you have a link for them?

Thanks.

Joe
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Dann

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've been slowly refinishing my ESB version.

The rust spots can be tough to get right, the liquid latex making fluid is difficult to see after the textured paint goes on, and when trying to pull the masking off, more paint likes to come off than I wanted.

This is my second attempt at the shroud, and it's definitely getting better, but still ain't quite there!

1011192341.jpg
1011192341a.jpg
1011192342.jpg
1011192343.jpg
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top