What he said !
Awesome! I can't wait to see your finished result along with another comparison photo with the original prop. Like other members here, I find it very interesting to think back to the time of the original prop making during the filming of ANH. If the red LED's from the Exactra 20 are so rare today, perhaps they were during filming, as well. Prop makers may have come across the red LED's from an Exactra 21 much more easily when searching for saber parts/greeblies and thought they were an interesting and sinister-looking alternative to the traditional clear bubble strip for a particular saber version (Vader V2).I'll be cutting mine down once i'm able, and i'll post the results here
Cool experiment, but before you cut, please check the length spanning seven LED’s on that board. It may not scale to the full length of the MPP clamp jaws as seen in the reference photo. It might be shorter than is needed.I'll be cutting mine down once i'm able, and i'll post the results here
I'm not too fussed by accuracy with it. If it'll be too short with 7, i'll stick with whichever amount fits the clamp. I'll still take a picture to give an example for the board colour.Cool experiment, but before you cut, please check the length spanning seven LED’s on that board. It may not scale to the full length of the MPP clamp jaws as seen in the reference photo. It might be shorter than is needed.
Who or WHAT IS "TCSS"? And do you have a link for them?It makes a long time since I wanted to create this thread, because I get several real mpps now, and I had the time to check the differences and take shots, of real (several versions) and fakes (parks, MR, other)
Sadly I couldn't get the larbel version, as I wouldn't spend lots of bucks buying a mr LE edition, so I have no photos of them.
I remember just the larbel is not as good as the parks, so I decided to concentrate only on what looks good, meaning the real stuff and parks replica.
Now, Wannawanga is offering a good quality emitter, feels a hole left because no company made a correct version of the clamp, either resin or metal versions.
I also know the best available clamp is the TCSS version, because of correct shape and design on lever, aluminum ring, and quite a big, but nice shaped activation box.
Other clamp replicas are ugly and most of the times aesthetically the weak point on mpp replicas, whatever version it is.
So, let's start with the original prop version, I refer on the now well known "hollywood museum ep 6 saber"
It's based on a real MPP flashgun, here are the caracteristics, from bottom to top:
-3 lines on black ring of pommel
-tapered black bars or the clamp, damaged lever
-large "B" hole type
-flat bolts button box version
-thick aluminum lever button box version
-thick walled (?!) straight shroud, repainted
-replacement shroud bolt, made from diamond point knurled lickel plated brass
-rounded bulb holder entry
Here is a picture of two real MPP and a parks replica with blastech shroud.
the top MPP is correct ESB version, the bottom MPP is wrong but the clamp has correct bars for a ANH version.
View attachment 538207
The TCSS clamps is very close to the clamp on top real MPP, just the activator box is a bit higher and the taper a bit different, however it's very close and makes illusion once on the saber.
The Wannawanga shroud also makes illusion, because reallt close to a real deal, but also made from aluminum, unlike the blastech, made from cast black resin.
So, if you have to choose a MPP saber, the easiest way is to take a parks body, wannawanga shroud and TCSS clamp.
I will check my other pictures if I have additionnal informations, especially about the large and small "B " holes versions.
Sadly I checked my pictures nd didn't find the "B " holes comparations pics, I will check my old facebook discussion to try to get them.