Vader MPP lightsabers details and specifications

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by parfaitelumiere, Oct 8, 2015.

  1. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It makes a long time since I wanted to create this thread, because I get several real mpps now, and I had the time to check the differences and take shots, of real (several versions) and fakes (parks, MR, other)
    Sadly I couldn't get the larbel version, as I wouldn't spend lots of bucks buying a mr LE edition, so I have no photos of them.
    I remember just the larbel is not as good as the parks, so I decided to concentrate only on what looks good, meaning the real stuff and parks replica.
    Now, Wannawanga is offering a good quality emitter, feels a hole left because no company made a correct version of the clamp, either resin or metal versions.
    I also know the best available clamp is the TCSS version, because of correct shape and design on lever, aluminum ring, and quite a big, but nice shaped activation box.
    Other clamp replicas are ugly and most of the times aesthetically the weak point on mpp replicas, whatever version it is.

    So, let's start with the original prop version, I refer on the now well known "hollywood museum ep 6 saber"
    It's based on a real MPP flashgun, here are the caracteristics, from bottom to top:
    -3 lines on black ring of pommel
    -tapered black bars or the clamp, damaged lever
    -large "B" hole type
    -flat bolts button box version
    -thick aluminum lever button box version
    -thick walled (?!) straight shroud, repainted
    -replacement shroud bolt, made from diamond point knurled lickel plated brass
    -rounded bulb holder entry

    Here is a picture of two real MPP and a parks replica with blastech shroud.
    the top MPP is correct ESB version, the bottom MPP is wrong but the clamp has correct bars for a ANH version.

    3vader s.png

    The TCSS clamps is very close to the clamp on top real MPP, just the activator box is a bit higher and the taper a bit different, however it's very close and makes illusion once on the saber.
    The Wannawanga shroud also makes illusion, because reallt close to a real deal, but also made from aluminum, unlike the blastech, made from cast black resin.
    So, if you have to choose a MPP saber, the easiest way is to take a parks body, wannawanga shroud and TCSS clamp.
    I will check my other pictures if I have additionnal informations, especially about the large and small "B " holes versions.

    Sadly I checked my pictures nd didn't find the "B " holes comparations pics, I will check my old facebook discussion to try to get them.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2015
  2. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here are additionnal informations:
    -the clamp sleeve sometimes is light grey, as the small black button near the clamp, it can also be grey.
    -the bulb entry is rounded but can also be sharp
    you can see both details on the pictured flashgun.

    Then, you can see the differences between a real and fake clamp, especially visible on the lever, but also general design, and especially the material, think glazed steel instead of thick glossy anodised aluminum.
    There are aspect variations on original clamps, du to the tint used for anodisation, and anodisation bath, ca vary from less or more glossy, and reddish-purplish black color.

    vader clampss.png

    The levers also have aspect variation, less or more glossy, but always this shape.
    The axis has a rounded end on lever side, but it's not systematical, it can also have a flat termination.
    I have seen several clamp opening, the narrow opening have about 16 mm, and the large are about 18 or 19 mm (didn't measure, and sold the flashgun), the large opening clamp lever axis are also longer.
    I had 3 different lever versions for now:
    glossy lever with glossy short axis (pictured), glazed lever with short flat axis(not pictured) and unknown lever (absent) with glossy long rounded axis (pictured), in all cases the clamps are aluminum and levers are strong.
     
  3. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    The ultimate MPP thread ... thanks for your research parfaitelumiere ... looking forward to your MPP vs Parks comparison :)

    Chaim
     
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  4. JaxAndTheMoon

    JaxAndTheMoon Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I never knew there were so many small minute differences between these. To the think I was satisfied with trying a Heiland conversion :wacko
     
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  5. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    10555107_610024302449058_1383778590_n.jpg

    Here is the "curved R" MPP plaque, for the moment I get only straight "R" plaques photo from Chaim.

    10558593_665616760175678_708728008_o.jpg

    And here you can see the parks shroud (photo slothfurnace)
    The wall is thicker and the pattern has more a glossy look.
    beside of it it's a heiland shroud, you can see the cut.
    I think this kind of heiland shroud probably existed with both, straight and stepped versions.
    The internal bulb holders are switchable between both brands, most of the pieces are the same.
     
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  6. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I found the original pics of straight and tapered clamps.

    One glossy lever, narrow opening tapered bars, other is glazed lever wide opening straight bars.
    The levers axis have different lenght.
    One lever is "flat type", but I mak have mistaken and not remember correctly, because is appears rounded but rough, not glossy.
    I may have confused it with a flat axis I saw on my blastech clamp, don't remember.

    10561881_665567140180640_544076972_o.jpg 10555521_665566556847365_1544734009_o.jpg

    You can also see the glue inside the clamp, once the sleeve is removed:

    10524842_665568296847191_1086831314_n.jpg
    The brownish color is typical, the sleeve has rounded ends with unvisible or almost visible lines.
    The replicas are cast, and have more sharp ends with some lines visible.
    There is no glue on parks replicas, I don't know if there is glue on TCSS replica.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Check the first picture...
     
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  7. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    vader fronts.png

    Here are MR FX, parks with parks shroud and real.
    The black inner contactor is missing on the parks.
     
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  8. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here is the original prop.

    VADER ESB.png



    You can see the details, incuding replacement knurled button, green board under the bubble, different colors wires and the weird thick waller repainted shroud, there are also a couple of bolts on the grips...
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
  9. Luke the Belter

    Luke the Belter Well-Known Member

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    Great pictures and comparison.
    The shroud from the museum pics doesn't look as if it was wrinkle painted ever :eek what time and handling could do to those parts.
     
  10. scottjua

    scottjua Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Nice work! I have a couple photos I can share too later.
     
  11. belloq

    belloq Well-Known Member

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    Great thread. Are all Parks missing the inner black plastic connector and bolt, or just that particular one in that photo?
     
  12. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yes the plastic is present on parks, sorry I didn't specify, but here it's absent because I get the clamp wothout plastic sleeve.

    This park is from a friend, he has lost parts (he lost clamp, and the black cone inside, by trying to include some leds inside), he asked me to make a quite accurate vader from these parks pieces.
    I had a too short heiland, with blastech replica clamp and shroud ,and original cone, I placed the heiland cone and replica clamp on the parks from the friend, sadly I had no sleeve.
    You can see it with a blastech shroud it was a attempt, O offered hom to take the blastech shroud because it was better, but he wanted to keep a aluminum shroud, so I finally left the priginal parks on it.
    I sold the replica blastech on a real MPP with missing shroud.
     
  13. MCM

    MCM Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    From what I understand, aren't the TCSS clamps made by Parks? My Parks MPP has the same clamp as one I purchased from TCSS. I believe he also makes the logoless Graflex clamps for them. He does seem to update his designs, which would explain why the Parks clamp you have is different; it must be an older model.
     
  14. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    You have to get this version of replica clamp:
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Replica-MPP-clamp-P328.aspx
    And yes I saw same design on the parks website, and one parks sold a couple of days ago had same clamp model, however I have never seen these parks clamps in real on parks MPP I get in hand, but I saw a similar clamp on a custom saber using TCSS MPP clamp.
    I don't remember if I asked the guy when he gets this clamp, looked like this:
    187_8720.jpg

    3 ways possible:
    -both on photos are older versions and now have changed (if so, no way to get a decent new clamp either parks or TCSS)?
    -older versions were not that good, newer versions are good (if so, really good news, possible to get good stuff in parks and TCSS shop)?
    -the productions is variable, with several makers (in that case it can be very difficult to get sure what we get, without asking a pic of the current item we want to buy)?
     
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  15. roygilsing

    roygilsing Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Great thread parfaitelumiere!
     
  16. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hope you will produce some MPP clamps in the future, checked your shrouds, really good, as the bubble strips are very nice and not expensive regarding the quality, when you know the other makers sell for 10$ or so, and I wouldn't give 10p, yours is a steal!

    If you plan to make a clamp, please take care about the slope shape, I can provide additionnal photos if you need it.
    You can also make a special set of bars, rectangular shaped, with the bacl rough from machining after anodisation, it can make both ANH versions in one single clamp.
     
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  17. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wonderful thread!
     
  18. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Great thread! Would it be possible to label the different versions in the pics? It would help keep it all straight.
    Many thanks for spending your time on this informational post.
     
  19. russellsch

    russellsch Sr Member

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    Wonderfully made & thought out thread! A joy to read & learn from. Thank you. :cheers
     
  20. Edraven99

    Edraven99 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'll add my two cents and note, as I discovered with my MPP that there appears to be a clamp variant as well... One that is slightly smaller than a regular clamp and does not have the plastic "sleeve" underneath it. Here's my clamp in comparison to a Parks replica clamp:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    As as you can see, the diameter of my clamp is slightly smaller than the Parks replica... Not a lot smaller, but enough that I couldn't fit the Parks sleeve underneath it and still close the clamp on the flash tube.

    You'll also note that the side bars on the Parks replica are rounded on the ends and square on the side while the ones on my real clamp are trapezoid shaped both on the side and on the ends...
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2015
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  21. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If you check the photos, you will see I added which is which.
    if not written directly on picture, it's added as a description .
     
  22. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This clamp is probably a wide opening one, it's not smaller, it just has a larger activator box section, I don't know why, but it's probably for a different camera holder.
    I have seen this kind of detail, described on message #6, sadly I didn't take the shot with same angle as you did, but I found similar differences between two real MPP clamps.
    It will be a bit ennoying for you to fit the bubble strip with accurate finish, however if you use a real exactra board and bubble strip, you can place the plastic sleeve under the clamp and cut the green board a bit wider so it will fit the clamp once closed.
    You won't have to mill the crystal bubble strip as you would have to do on a narrow opening clamp.

    About the bars profile, I saw ronded ones on real clamps, but these one had the back machined creating a sharp angle, and a aluminum color you can see them on message #6
     

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    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  23. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sorry about that, wasn't seeing them the 1st time around on my iPhone.
    Thanks again for this thread!
     
  24. Edraven99

    Edraven99 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Actually no... I couldn't even close the clamp; i.e. the clamp screw wouldn't reach the other side to screw together properly, with the Parks sleeve underneath. That's why I had to abandon the replacement sleeve idea and used o rings to complete the look

    [​IMG]
     
  25. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Is it a "long lever" or "short lever"?
    Maybe it's ashort lever and the clamp needed a long lever, strange.
    Can you try this:
    switch the levers, and check it one screw in other and vice versa, and take shots of lever together to see the differences.
     
  26. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    You know what - I had this same problem with a Blast-Tech MPP clamp. I feel like he may have used a variant like yours to mod his own after. They also will not fit a spacer.
     
  27. Edraven99

    Edraven99 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Unfortunately I traded away my Parks clamp so I no longer have it for comparison... however, I recall checking to see if the clamp levers were the same length and the were (because I couldn't figure out what was going on initially!). There just isn't enough "clamp" to support a sleeve.
     
  28. Luke the Belter

    Luke the Belter Well-Known Member

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    What is this about the different fake levers? Are they all from Park? And I think I could have some with the right shape but I may be wrong :confused. So far I would say the shape is another than the replica lever in your picture.

    20151009_190430[1].jpg
     
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  29. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    this lever looks good to me.
    I think in fact I was really not lucky with replica mpp clamps lol, I see only good parks replicas on picture here, the only ugly one on photo is the one I pictured (blastech)
     
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  30. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    [​IMG]

    My precious MPP with trapezoid sidebars and large 'B' hole on the other side :)

    Chaim
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2017
  31. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    very nice MPP chaim!

    this thread is great, i am a complete novice to vaders saber. glad there is a thread recently started with great photos for explanation. i;m excited to see where this thread goes!
     
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  32. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I would like to know what the profile is on the trapezoidal side bars so that I could make some myself (until Roy or someone else decided to offer good replicas, of course. ;) )

    The side bars with straight sides seem to be rounded at top and bottom but the trapezoidal side bars seem to have sharper edges - but are all edges just as sharp?
    Blastech sidebars with sharp edges can't fit my Parks clamp because they are too big and too sharp-edged. If the edges were rounded off, then they would work.
     
  33. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    MPP12.jpg

    [​IMG]
    Darth Lars as you can see on the real prop the trapezoid sidebars are even thinner towards the top than on the bottom . . . in other words there's a taper going on on all sides and edges ... and the edges are not all that sharp ... the edge facing outside on top is a bit rounded or smooth so not sharp at all :)

    Chaim
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  34. kirova

    kirova Active Member

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    Hi everyone, new member here :)

    here are some pics of the Larbel I picked up many years ago (still haven't gotten around to converting it yet............)

    let me know if you need photos from a particular angle

    DSC_0430[2].JPG DSC_0431.JPG DSC_0437.JPG DSC_0435.JPG DSC_0434.JPG DSC_0433.JPG DSC_0438.JPG
     
  35. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Oh, I have already looked closely at those images a lot but I have not been sure about what it is I am actually seeing. ;)
    There are lots of angles here and there and what looks like either shadows or gaps.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  36. history Hunter

    history Hunter New Member

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    Anybody who wants to sell a spare MPP correct for a Vader build, please feel free to contact me ;) I built one on a Heiland, but am totally interested in building a "correct" model. Am jealous of all the MPPs on this thread!!! I bought the "right" Heiland, and upgraded the screw-on base with a "correct" Sol base. But it's just NOT the same!
     
  37. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    MPP :

    [​IMG]

    MPP%20Clamp%20-%2002_zpsddh1a8kl.jpg

    MPP - Replica (?) :

    MPP%20Clamp%20-%2004_zps3e7fugho.jpg

    MPP%20Clamp%20-%2003_zpsn2sxb7tw.jpg

    Darth Lars . . . perhaps these pictures might help?

    Chaim
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  38. roygilsing

    roygilsing Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm very happy with these images Chaim! I was about to ask you to make them like this. Now I do have to change my blueprint drawing again [emoji53]
     
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  39. Reelo

    Reelo Sr Member

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    Wonderful, thank you! They will help me if ever I want to upgrade from the ones I have. (They are from BlastTech, and they are simply rectangular)
    But I'll have to figure out how to make a threaded hole first, which means I'll have to figure out everything about lead and pitch of the lever-screw used... :-(
     
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  40. russellsch

    russellsch Sr Member

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    Superb shots Chaim :thumbsup!
    The stainless replica looks great. Do you know the maker?
     
  41. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Sorry no I don't know the maker ... I was not even sure it's a replica but the lever is quite different in shape from my vintage MPP hence the (?) actually the lever looks exactly as the smaller clamp from Edraven99 ... even the warmer color is the same ... so it's possible it's a real MPP clamp afterall :wacko

    Chaim
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2015
  42. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    When we discussed about this clamp I told you for me it's probably a genuine one, making a white aluminum color on tapered bars.
    The ring is probably made from aluminum too.
    I don't know if the parks have aluminum rings or steel rings , at first view looks like aluminum too, who could confirm?
     
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  43. roygilsing

    roygilsing Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have updated my blueprint (again) :)
    blueprint-DV-ESB.jpg
     
  44. newmagrathea

    newmagrathea Sr Member

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    I can tell you that there is no glue on the TCSS replica. If you would like close up pics I can take some later today. The TCSS is a super tight fit on a Heiland, I think that the screw length is incorrect on it because the screw does not protrude from the opposite of the lever.

    - - - Updated - - -

    It seems to me that the sidebars are upside down, I would think they made them trapezoidal to counter act the bend of the clamp and give the screws, lever and washer a level surface.
     
  45. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That's frea***' awesome. Thanks!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  46. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Still some mods to do, you forgot the cutting on the clear part of bubble strip.
     
  47. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  48. roygilsing

    roygilsing Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  49. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    12185757_1507128496253233_625271304_o.jpg

    Same idea same saber, same guy, but different photographer, the photographer was a really cute girl, good reason to ask her to make a shot!
     
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  50. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    David, do you recall any of the specifics (type, brand, retailer, etc.) on the O Rings that you used?
     

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