nUcLeArEnVoY
New Member
What I did was used 2.0 grips normally used for ESB installs. I dremeled off the mounting studs, shortened to Gino specs (104mm), and trimmed the mounting tape off where the endcap starts.
In addition, I removed material off of the t-tracks to accommodate the "step" caused by the endcap when it's threaded on, to prevent them from flaring outward as is often seen on vintage and replica conversions. Kinda like what MR did with the FX versions. This way I can just unthread the endcap off and back on whenever I want, I just need to get a second one and vent it for sound.
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I think it would be easier to just glue the PCB under the bubble strip than create a channel, it just has to be less wide than the bubble strip. That way it won't interfere with the clamp.
In addition, I removed material off of the t-tracks to accommodate the "step" caused by the endcap when it's threaded on, to prevent them from flaring outward as is often seen on vintage and replica conversions. Kinda like what MR did with the FX versions. This way I can just unthread the endcap off and back on whenever I want, I just need to get a second one and vent it for sound.
- - - Updated - - -
I think it would be easier to just glue the PCB under the bubble strip than create a channel, it just has to be less wide than the bubble strip. That way it won't interfere with the clamp.
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