UK based Master Chief clay sculpt

Final helmet sculpt. Piccies :) Sorry for the picture quality... we finished it at 3am Saturday night/Sunday morning. Dark kitchin at 3am, we'd started to get the giggles at this point aswell so im amazed they are even slightly sharp lol

finhelmet2.jpg

finhelmet3.jpg

finhelmet4.jpg

finhelmet5.jpg

finhelmet6.jpg


Few points, we didnt bother getting the visor surface smooth / neat because its going to be cut out once cast... no point. The last picture has had two layers of silicone blown onto it, at the time of posting all silicone has now been applied. Fiberglass jacket tonight.

Yeah we are pleased. Hopefully going to get one cast by the weekend.
 
Final helmet sculpt. Piccies :) Sorry for the picture quality... we finished it at 3am Saturday night/Sunday morning. Dark kitchin at 3am, we'd started to get the giggles at this point aswell so im amazed they are even slightly sharp lol

finhelmet2.jpg

finhelmet3.jpg

finhelmet4.jpg

finhelmet5.jpg

finhelmet6.jpg


Few points, we didnt bother getting the visor surface smooth / neat because its going to be cut out once cast... no point. The last picture has had two layers of silicone blown onto it, at the time of posting all silicone has now been applied. Fiberglass jacket tonight.

Yeah we are pleased. Hopefully going to get one cast by the weekend.

Very good job!!!

I did my own helmet with clay too, but when it dries it usually break a little. I always wonder myself how do you guys do it to prevent it to happen :wacko ?

Good luck on your proyect!!!!
 
Very good job!!!

I did my own helmet with clay too, but when it dries it usually break a little. I always wonder myself how do you guys do it to prevent it to happen :wacko ?

Good luck on your proyect!!!!

Sounds like you're using a water based clay. A lot of people use an oil based clay that never dries out. Therefore it never shrinks and cracks.
 
Sounds like you're using a water based clay. A lot of people use an oil based clay that never dries out. Therefore it never shrinks and cracks.

Thanks for the advice, the problem was I´ve never found this kind of clay so... After a full disaster with my clay chest I turn in to pepakura designing my own files... But as always is a slowly job ´cause I´ve got no much time :p
 
Very impressed with your work! Could you give us a few details about your molding process? I see you are using silicone with a fiberglass jacket, how do you apply the silicone? Where do you divide the jacket mold? Forgive me if you've already posted that kind of info and I missed it, but I love to see the other nuts and bolts details.
 
Yes we use oil based clay, it never goes dry. Its also superb for getting those nice crisp edges.

Im taking the necessary photos whilst moulding the helmet, I intend to do a write up once finished so ill go into more detail then. As for applying the silicone, the first two layers are brushed/dripped/blown with a straw onto the model to get all the details whilst the following 3 layers are just brushed on. We use Thixo on the last 3 layers aswell to get it nice and thick.

The jacket is divided along the shim line, where we place the shim depends on the model. Youve just got to pick the most sensible place. Normally straight down the middle from front to back, or straight across the middle from left to right.

If this mould comes out as planned... fingers crossed lol.... ill post a write up at the weekend. If its a complete disaster ill go and cry under some coats.

We put the final layer of fiberglass on last night, thin... thick... thin. Going to get the angle grinder to it after work, then pull it. Nervous! :D
 
You do some nice clean work there, Sevv. What do you use to keep things symmetrical? I've been using calipers and mirrors, yet it can still be a real challenge.
 
Thanks guys, although the final polish is mostly down to my girlfriend. She is fantastic at getting that final finish. Its a team effort.

For the symmetry we use rulers and various tape measures, pieces of plastic card or paper cut out from one side and mirrored to see if the other matchs. Photoshops a good tool aswell, but really it boils down to just eyeing it. Having two people there is also a huge plus, being able to ask for someone elses opinion and discuss things. Its very easy to get blinkered to how something looks.
 
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Thanks for your comments guys.

Letraset tape is really useful for marking the centre line and if fact throughout the process. It's a flexible tape intended for technical line drawing. Working from a defined centre line really helps with the symmetry issue and the tape can also be used for marking curves and details in the early stages.

More pics to follow soon...
 
Update...

The fiberglass jacket:

mcdemould1.jpg


Fun! the angle grinder :D

mcdemould2.jpg


After this we had to get it out of the shell, O...M...G was that difficult. Seriously, unbelieveable! I cant believe you can put that much force on the fiberglass and it didnt break. Angua was putting all her weight to stop it moving whilst I had both feet on the bust pulling with every ounce of strength I had. It took us half the night!

Anywho onwards...

mcdemould3.jpg


It looks like a pretty good mould! Last night I put the seam fiberglass layer on ready to pull when I get home from work later. Its had 2 gel coat, a 30 gsm tissue and a 300 gsm.

Cross all your fingers, its a difficult shape to fiberglass, especially in the baseball cap (our name for it) I hope theres minimal air bubbles.
 
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