TOS Type II Phaser Replica (my final attempt (no, really))

[AdmiralBaxter]

The Finney/Cloud Minders cave floor phaser.

I forget which one you had planned..

Always hit me up if you need help...

 

[Chrisisall]

I'm getting one and hopefully I can do exactly that. If I have time I will share progress pictures and take tips from Chrisisall who inspired my interest

Actually I'll stop being a baby about this: yeah, I could sand all the metal to the correct sizes, but my big problem with the metal replacement fins is the side view through the fins- it's just a square block connecting them. It should be slanted like the tail angle. This is not something I can modify. I think I'll just go with making the Cyberia fins look like metal....

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

Actually I'll stop being a baby about this: yeah, I could sand all the metal to the correct sizes, but my big problem with the metal replacement fins is the side view through the fins- it's just a square block connecting them. It should be slanted like the tail angle. This is not something I can modify. I think I'll just go with making the Cyberia fins look like metal....

Actually you could if you had some styrene plastic sheet the right thickness...

Just DM me on FB later

 

[Chrisisall]

Actually you could if you had some styrene plastic sheet the right thickness...

Just DM me on FB later

I could, but the Cyberia fins already look like that...

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

I could, but the Cyberia fins already look like that...

Then get to it then an stop your whining and get to work....... lol

 

[Chrisisall]

I won't lie, sanding this much surface area with this kind of plastic is not my idea of a swell time.
Plus once I'm done, I get to do it all over again with a super fine grit. But, as the Robot said, if it is worth doing, it is worth doing well...

 

[Gregatron]

A little filler primer goes a long way, too.

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

I won't lie, sanding this much surface area with this kind of plastic is not my idea of a swell time.
Plus once I'm done, I get to do it all over again with a super fine grit. But, as the Robot said, if it is worth doing, it is worth doing well...

You're supposed to sand it lightly then use a primer with filler in it OR use Dolphin glaze (it's a light weight body filler for body work), sand prime repeat.

Don't expect to sand & prime and have it ready.

Then let the primer cure 24 hours.

The last step will be the finish which I strongly recommend doing in 3 or 4 light coats of paint IF you spray the body. if you want it accurate you'd do it by hand to get the set used finish....

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

A little filler primer goes a long way, too.

He's a newb.... I'm trying to teach him....

 

[Chrisisall]

Thanks, guys! I'm taking this slow. I actually HAVE to- if you sand too vigorously you build up friction & melt this plastic! Glad I have the handle to test on. Also, I work full time, but I have next week off. I'll be able to get a lot done then...

 

[Chrisisall]

Look at this!
I mean, just look at these fin assemblies! The metal one I used last time (lower) is just wrong!

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

Look at this!
I mean, just look at these fin assemblies! The metal one I used last time (lower) is just wrong!

Actually I'd say the Cyberia is too long because it's identical to the DST...

I'd recommend comparing to the Wand and use which one is closest to it

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

Thanks, guys! I'm taking this slow. I actually HAVE to- if you sand too vigorously you build up friction & melt this plastic! Glad I have the handle to test on. Also, I work full time, but I have next week off. I'll be able to get a lot done then...

It takes a bit of work to melt that plastic lol

 

[Chrisisall]

Actually I'd say the Cyberia is too long because it's identical to the DST...

I'd recommend comparing to the Wand and use which one is closest to it

I sanded it down on the back end a bit. Needs a bit in the front, but not too much. HEY! Don't rush me!

 

[Chrisisall]

It takes a bit of work to melt that plastic lol

I sand like the Devil himself. Or Steve Austin. Maybe i should go decaf....

 

[Gregatron]

Thanks, guys! I'm taking this slow. I actually HAVE to- if you sand too vigorously you build up friction & melt this plastic! Glad I have the handle to test on. Also, I work full time, but I have next week off. I'll be able to get a lot done then...

Listen, I built a full-hero replica, a few years back. It's intimidating work (especially the working parts), but you just have to go slow and plan things out.

As a wise man once ssid, "You can DO it!"

 

[Chrisisall]

Listen, I built a full-hero replica, a few years back. It's intimidating work (especially the working parts), but you just have to go slow and plan things out.

As a wise man once said, "You can DO it!"

I couldn't even begin to consider doing a working one. My head would be like that guy's in Scanners. But this I can do. The key is to not rush it, which is what I am wont to do, a lot of times....

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

I couldn't even begin to consider doing a working one. My head would be like that guy's in Scanners. But this I can do. The key is to not rush it, which is what I am wont to do, a lot of times....

Listen to Gregatron.

Take your time and work within your limits.

Make it your own everyone has your back on here

 

[Chrisisall]

Wow, this PLAstic is tough. I'll be sanding for days. Just opened up the front window quite a bit & brought the back end of the P1 nose connection foward 1/16" (give or take). I know it looks like a mess right now, but it's going according to plan. Stay tuned, Boppers. Stay tuned.

 

[Chrisisall]

More after I got home today: sanding the top front cap before cementing it on. The replacement metal fits just exactly over it now. Only took an hour... it's hard for me to sand slowly, this stuff melts at my normal speed. Done for tonight.