Hammer3246
Sr Member
Now, if only we could see a picture with the canopy on.
This is coming from my phone, expect errors.
This is coming from my phone, expect errors.
The Y-Wing "Green Leader" Project - NOW OPEN SOURCE!
- Thread starter DaveG
- Start date
Hammer3246
Sr Member
That is sweet Dave. Can't wait to get my hands on one!
This is coming from my phone, expect errors.
This is coming from my phone, expect errors.
Progress... well sort of.
Started casting the forward fuselage shells this week. They take about 2 1/2 hours per set to cast. Due to the thin sections the resin takes about an hour and 15 minutes to get hard enough to pull from the mold without serious distortion and my pressure tank is only big enough to hold one mold at a time. (Although I've almost finished work on a second, larger tank that will be big enough to run both molds at the same time.) Thing were going well until one of the molds started tearing badly right at the torpedo tubes on the bottom shell, the stress from demolding was too much. It's always a trade off when choosing mold making materials. In order to get a longer run and better seam details I opted for a platinum based RTV silicone with a higher shore hardness (stiffer, less stretchy) and this means more likely to tear at sharp corners when stressed. So I had to modify the pattern and will cast another bottom mold this week. Of course I used up all the mold rubber making the first set of molds and didn't have any more on hand this weekend. Hopefully I can get a new mold half poured this week and get a productive run of casting done over the upcoming three day weekend! I am looking forward to getting these out in your hands.
Started casting the forward fuselage shells this week. They take about 2 1/2 hours per set to cast. Due to the thin sections the resin takes about an hour and 15 minutes to get hard enough to pull from the mold without serious distortion and my pressure tank is only big enough to hold one mold at a time. (Although I've almost finished work on a second, larger tank that will be big enough to run both molds at the same time.) Thing were going well until one of the molds started tearing badly right at the torpedo tubes on the bottom shell, the stress from demolding was too much. It's always a trade off when choosing mold making materials. In order to get a longer run and better seam details I opted for a platinum based RTV silicone with a higher shore hardness (stiffer, less stretchy) and this means more likely to tear at sharp corners when stressed. So I had to modify the pattern and will cast another bottom mold this week. Of course I used up all the mold rubber making the first set of molds and didn't have any more on hand this weekend. Hopefully I can get a new mold half poured this week and get a productive run of casting done over the upcoming three day weekend! I am looking forward to getting these out in your hands.
Last edited:
Hammer3246
Sr Member
Bottom right 3rd one in looks a lot like mine.
This is coming from my phone, expect errors.
This is coming from my phone, expect errors.
Fuselage casting is continuing, I'm up to about a dozen sets. So far, every single casting has been good, no rejects. I'm keeping my fingers crossed I can get enough castings out of the set of molds.
The first few sets are being shipped out this weekend. I'll be PMing the people that expressed interest, more or less in order, with payment information as sets are ready to ship.
There aren't any real "instructions", they are pretty simple parts, but here are a few notes I've come up with as I put together my first set.
I used a light coat of a spray mold release when casting the parts. They should be washed and gently scrubbed thoroughly using warm water and dish soap. I've never had any real problems with getting paint to stick to castings but a very light surface sanding with 600 grit wet sandpaper to prep the surface for primer is also recommended. As far as primer goes, I recommend using lacquer based auto motive primer, even if you are going to be using water based acrylics to paint the model.
There are a number of vent points that need to be trimmed down in order for the bottom and top shells to fit together tightly. In the photos below they are circled in blue. Be sure to trim off the cylindrical sprues on the side of the mounting block and face of the rear gusset on the bottom shell. Those won't affect the fit of the shells but will obstruct the aluminum armature and rear laser cut bulkhead. There's also a little blob in one of the bolt holes (marked with an arrow) that needs to be trimmed out.
EDIT - Whoops! In the above photo I missed circling two vent points to be trimmed on the inside edge along the same line as the other vents at the very front of the seam where the two shells join.
The 10-24 hex nuts can be glued in place with a little epoxy. Be careful not to get glue into the threads. I basically put the hex nuts in dry and carefully added epoxy around the edge on top.
The laser cut front bulkhead needs to be glued in place in the top shell before assembly. It will kind of snap into place under the lip.
The laser cut rear bulkhead can be glued in after assembling the shells but I found gluing it in place on the top shell helped pull everything into alignment. Make sure it's seated really tightly against the inside of the shell. Before gluing it in place check the fit of the aluminum armature in the rectangular hole. If it's too snug file out the hole a little. Installation of the trapezoid shaped laser cut bulkhead sections to either side should wait until after the shells are glued together. They will require a bit of filing to fit correctly against the center section. The laser cut bulkheads were not intended to be the surface on which the kit parts are glued. I set the bulkhead about 1/16" further forward to allow an overlay of styrene on which the kit parts are pre glued. Or a thin overall casting.
I added a few extra kit part details to the forward bulkhead on my model. Seemed like a good place for a little extra somethin' somethin'!
The first few sets are being shipped out this weekend. I'll be PMing the people that expressed interest, more or less in order, with payment information as sets are ready to ship.
There aren't any real "instructions", they are pretty simple parts, but here are a few notes I've come up with as I put together my first set.
I used a light coat of a spray mold release when casting the parts. They should be washed and gently scrubbed thoroughly using warm water and dish soap. I've never had any real problems with getting paint to stick to castings but a very light surface sanding with 600 grit wet sandpaper to prep the surface for primer is also recommended. As far as primer goes, I recommend using lacquer based auto motive primer, even if you are going to be using water based acrylics to paint the model.
There are a number of vent points that need to be trimmed down in order for the bottom and top shells to fit together tightly. In the photos below they are circled in blue. Be sure to trim off the cylindrical sprues on the side of the mounting block and face of the rear gusset on the bottom shell. Those won't affect the fit of the shells but will obstruct the aluminum armature and rear laser cut bulkhead. There's also a little blob in one of the bolt holes (marked with an arrow) that needs to be trimmed out.
EDIT - Whoops! In the above photo I missed circling two vent points to be trimmed on the inside edge along the same line as the other vents at the very front of the seam where the two shells join.
The 10-24 hex nuts can be glued in place with a little epoxy. Be careful not to get glue into the threads. I basically put the hex nuts in dry and carefully added epoxy around the edge on top.
The laser cut front bulkhead needs to be glued in place in the top shell before assembly. It will kind of snap into place under the lip.
The laser cut rear bulkhead can be glued in after assembling the shells but I found gluing it in place on the top shell helped pull everything into alignment. Make sure it's seated really tightly against the inside of the shell. Before gluing it in place check the fit of the aluminum armature in the rectangular hole. If it's too snug file out the hole a little. Installation of the trapezoid shaped laser cut bulkhead sections to either side should wait until after the shells are glued together. They will require a bit of filing to fit correctly against the center section. The laser cut bulkheads were not intended to be the surface on which the kit parts are glued. I set the bulkhead about 1/16" further forward to allow an overlay of styrene on which the kit parts are pre glued. Or a thin overall casting.
I added a few extra kit part details to the forward bulkhead on my model. Seemed like a good place for a little extra somethin' somethin'!
Last edited:
Hammer3246
Sr Member
Jeeze. I don't know Dave, I've never seen a ILM Y with that kinda detail. May have to move this thread to the general forum.
Vacformedhero
Sr Member
Precision , stunningly clean.......almost a shame to paint it :$
At this point I'm kicking myself for not getting in on this project. Then I remember I have dozens of other projects I have to do. It's just awesome watching how this all comes together. Great work.
