The Y-Wing "Green Leader" Project - NOW OPEN SOURCE!

Re: The Y-Wing "Green Leader" Project - NOW OPEN SOURCE!

You need more to make the resin engines used on every Y wings (but Red Jammer). Dont remember exactly, it was 12 or so If you trim the parts perfeectly and use the right leftovers at the right places which could be possible If you spend a good load of time in the planning to not do any mistake. 15 plant-ons is a reasonable number to be sure you wont discover when you glue the last parts that those left overs have been trimmed too short.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and you need more as some of the left overs are also used on the body

I'm in and good with 15 per Julien's suggestion as I'm more Tiger Sprocket than Red Jammer right now.
 
Last edited:
This thread is about making parts and things available to the Y Wing builders. No one is taking orders here - but I am asking "the group" how many of this one part they would like to see in a pack, for when the orders will be taken. Then there will be a thread in the junkyard. Would you rather I say nothing? I can stop posting here if that's what you guys prefer.

Sorry.
 
Re: The Y-Wing "Green Leader" Project - NOW OPEN SOURCE!

Okay, calm down no need to be sorry. I was under the impression this was going to the project runs when it was ready for orders . It's all good. Since you're asking I'll take enough for 2. Whatever that ends up being.

Cheers

This is coming from my phone, expect errors.
 
Hi Jason. looks like packs of 15 would work for nearly everybody. Thanks for putting it together and thinking of making it available to us. :love

Steph


This thread is about making parts and things available to the Y Wing builders. No one is taking orders here - but I am asking "the group" how many of this one part they would like to see in a pack, for when the orders will be taken. Then there will be a thread in the junkyard. Would you rather I say nothing? I can stop posting here if that's what you guys prefer.

Sorry.
 
This is what Open Source is all about - Thanks Jason!

The only request I have is that other builds of the Open Source Y each have their own threads, as Scott and Ron have done.
 
I thought not needing any of the kit-bashed parts used on the original miniatures was one of the prime motivators of the design of DaveG's kit.

And since his body parts are quite purposefully shaped and sized differently from the actual miniatures, without anyone having built one of DaveG's kits first, how does anyone even know what you will "need", more or less, of a given greebie cluster that was actually used on the originals?
 
REPOSITORY UPDATE!

Maxhebus' 3D printing files for the engine connector with fins have been uploaded to the repository as an alternative to scratch building the assembly from Plastruct tube and sheet plastic. There are STL and STP files, all zipped together in a file called:

Engine Connector Files

Here's the link for the repository:

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/0BwDa06cjX-frNFY2d25BR0R5RUU

Stephane , many thanks for contributing to this Open source project!
I'm having an issue with Stephane's connector core file in shapeways. It's saying that the connector has issues when trying to use the strong white material. Seems like it should be a strait forward 3D design. Any ideas?
 
It looks like there are some open edges on the interior fillets. Stephane said he was able to print them on his own printer, many slicing programs can take care of problems like that. It looks like Shapeways flags the problems rather than let the parts run through the system and then possibly not print. I thought Shapeways had a feature where you could ask it to repair bad geometry. I'd see if that can be done. Otherwise Stephane will have to fix the model and then we can repost it.
 
I did not use any fix option before printing and based on the software used, I'm surprised to have open edges Worth case scenario, I can get rid of the fillets....
Dave, How did you see for the open edges?

....


It looks like there are some open edges on the interior fillets. Stephane said he was able to print them on his own printer, many slicing programs can take care of problems like that. It looks like Shapeways flags the problems rather than let the parts run through the system and then possibly not print. I thought Shapeways had a feature where you could ask it to repair bad geometry. I'd see if that can be done. Otherwise Stephane will have to fix the model and then we can repost it.
 
Stephane - welcome to the never dull world of modeling for 3D printing! These things happen all the time. Often two edges which are actually right on top of each other aren't actually joined causing a naked edge and an open solid, which then exports as an open mesh. Think of it as if you put a piece of paper down and put a short slit in it with a very sharp knife. for all visible purposes, the sheet is a solid surface, when in fact it has a hole in it. Many slicing programs used to prep meshes for 3D printing can take care of such errors, it just looks like Shapeways flagged it.

When I imported your STEP and STL files into Rhino I noticed it they were Open geometry rather than Closed. I ran the Show Edges command which highlighted the naked edges yellow.

Engine Nozzle Open Edges.png

Sometimes these thing are an easy fix in Rhino, sometime not. Since these were on fillet edges it fell into the "Not" category. It'll be easier to fix in SolidWorks where it was created. This is not an uncommon thing to happen on fillets. Sometimes just changing the radius of the fillet a few hundredths of a millimeter is all it takes.

Firefox3D - Thanks for fixing the mesh. I have replaced the older STL with the fixed one in the Repository. Stephane - if you want to fix the surface model I'll replace that file too.
 
Last edited:
Moldmaking time on the Forward Fuselage! (FINALLY)

To prevent the 3D printed shell masters from possibly getting distorted when clay is pressed against them I laser cut an 'eggcrate' system of acrylic supports that were slotted together and then held in place by machine screws through the bottom of a mold base laser cut from 1/4" acrylic. The 1/4" base was cut to the desired overall size of the mold, about 3/4" larger than the part all the way around. The shell pattern fit snuggly onto the supports, a little water soluble white glue making sure it stayed put.

IMG_2135.jpg IMG_2136.jpg IMG_2137.jpg

By not actually gluing the eggcrate supports together and by attaching them with screws through the bottom, I will be able to unscrew and remove the base and supports without the possibility of pulling the cured mold rubber away from the pattern, ensuring cleaner seam lines and minimum flash to clean up on the castings.

I built up clay around the shell patterns up to the desired parting line, carefully making the edges were as clean as possible, again to ensure a clean seam line. I used WED water based clay from Laguna Clay for this. Once the clay had hardened a little bit I cut half-dome keys into the clay with a ball end mill.

IMG_2140.jpg IMG_2142.jpg IMG_2146.jpg

The mold box was made by gluing walls of styrene sheet to the edges of the 1/4" acrylic base.

IMG_2147.jpg

After the silicone rubber was fully cured the styrene sides, mold bases and eggrate supports were carefully removed and the water clay removed. Careful cleaning of the surfaces with clean water and soft brushes eventually removed all the clay residue. That it the reason I prefer to use water clay over oil based clays, the residue is much easier to clean.

IMG_2150.jpg IMG_2153.jpg IMG_2154.jpg

The next step will be to build a mold box around the first mold halves and pour the second halves. Being sure to use a little mold release to prevent the silicone from sticking to itself.
 
Last edited:

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top