Chasing Coyote
New Member
all i can say this ain't no eldar its a ancient one or the king himself all i can say is feed us more excellence "N'yake-de" 
The Topknot Build. New photos of torso life cast build. 05/07/2015
- Thread starter AlphaTech686
- Start date
Okami Skullcrusher
Well-Known Member
This scult of yours is amazing.
Mohawk meets ponytail, äh top-knot would work great for this Predator.
Personally I think the quills set below the green line is too much.
Looks like a french-artist-Predator to me.
How about using thorns for quills? And some quills on the eyebrows?
Wolverine-style quills on face would also look interesting.
Mohawk meets ponytail, äh top-knot would work great for this Predator.
Personally I think the quills set below the green line is too much.
Looks like a french-artist-Predator to me.
How about using thorns for quills? And some quills on the eyebrows?
Wolverine-style quills on face would also look interesting.
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Hey everyone thanks for the comments. Hey Scullcrusher, I'm still deciding the final positions of all the quills. French artist huh. I am thinking of having a couple and I mean only two on each brow. 2 thick ones that would look almost like horns. I need to put them on and study it . Hey Jose, I am molding it in epoxy resin/ fiberglass much like Master Anubis did his. In fact I'm hoping to mold it axactly like that, 4 to 5 pieces so I can bolt it together around the head plug.
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Here is teh repost of the mechanical face build.
I started out with this old cordless screwdriver as it has a nice strong gear head in it. I discovered a long time ago that latex is not very stretchy.
Here it is mounted in the underskull.
Here is the plate that will hold the 4 cables
Here is the arm that moves the cables. You can see if you look close there is a limit switch on each side of the movement to kill the power when the
arm reaches the end of it's movment. This worked great for using only one toggle to control the movement in either direction. Later on I ended up doing the same thing on the gauntlet.
I have to say I was really proud of that little arm I made. It was first try at welding and that little brass bushing worked great.
To bad I have now shelved the mask for the new and improved silicone project. A couple mor shots of the inside.
Here is a test fitting.
Here is a video of the movement.
http://s3.photobucket.com/user/alphapredator686/media/006-2.flv.html
here is the mask
http://s3.photobucke...current=274.mp4
I started out with this old cordless screwdriver as it has a nice strong gear head in it. I discovered a long time ago that latex is not very stretchy.
Here it is mounted in the underskull.
Here is the plate that will hold the 4 cables
Here is the arm that moves the cables. You can see if you look close there is a limit switch on each side of the movement to kill the power when the
arm reaches the end of it's movment. This worked great for using only one toggle to control the movement in either direction. Later on I ended up doing the same thing on the gauntlet.
I have to say I was really proud of that little arm I made. It was first try at welding and that little brass bushing worked great.
To bad I have now shelved the mask for the new and improved silicone project. A couple mor shots of the inside.
Here is a test fitting.
Here is a video of the movement.
http://s3.photobucket.com/user/alphapredator686/media/006-2.flv.html
here is the mask
http://s3.photobucke...current=274.mp4
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Spent a couple hours on it today.
Sculpted and molded the smallest dread that will be closest to the face.
I also started molding the tusks. I decided I needed to pour a set of these in silicone because I will be leaving these in place when I
do the molding process. The epoxy would be to easily locked on to the acrylic ones. When I eventually bolt the mold around the plug
the acrylic tusks will be in place to help line things up and so the silicone fits around them right.
Sculpted and molded the smallest dread that will be closest to the face.
I also started molding the tusks. I decided I needed to pour a set of these in silicone because I will be leaving these in place when I
do the molding process. The epoxy would be to easily locked on to the acrylic ones. When I eventually bolt the mold around the plug
the acrylic tusks will be in place to help line things up and so the silicone fits around them right.
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Here's a couple of pictures from this morning.
I sliced the dread out of the silicone and realised I did snap a shot of it in place. I am thinking I may
have some that run around under the big dreads. Oh you can see the brow quills here. Still not sure
if I will keep those.
Poured the other half of the tusk mold this morning. That Simpact 60 is great stuff. It is just stiff enough.
I sliced the dread out of the silicone and realised I did snap a shot of it in place. I am thinking I may
have some that run around under the big dreads. Oh you can see the brow quills here. Still not sure
if I will keep those.
Poured the other half of the tusk mold this morning. That Simpact 60 is great stuff. It is just stiff enough.
Goonsack Steve
New Member
If you get the animatronics right, I will actually love you.
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Went to visit the family in Iowa for 10 days so I just got back but managed to squeeze in a few minutes to clean the mold and pour some nice pink
tusks. Doesn't he look sweet.
tusks. Doesn't he look sweet.
Chasing Coyote
New Member
"Looking Great there Boss"
MEANGENE83
Sr Member
This build warps my mind! The amount of craftsmanship and detail is amazing, I do not have this kind of patience or talent.
I love scrolling thru the pictures, absorbing ideas. Thanks for posting so much for all to see.
I love scrolling thru the pictures, absorbing ideas. Thanks for posting so much for all to see.
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Hey thanks everyone. I'm glad someone is getting something out of this. I've been busy as crap with life stuff but I will get some new pics up soon.
Hey Hal1138 the pink is pink because that is what silicone I had lying around. As I explained earlier I needed these to be duplicated in silicone so when I mold the head in Epoxy resin I won't lock the tusks in. I will be splitting the mold right along the tusks centerline. The mold will have to be multiple pieces. When I go to cast the head in silicone I will place the original dental acrylic tusk back in place on the armature which is a duplicate of the head mechanism. If all goes well the tusks will do 2 things. 1, they will help align the mold to the armature and 2, they will help to make sure the mandibles fit around the tusk perfectly. Hopefully! I'm still trudging along. Thanks again everyone for keeping up with this build.
Hey Hal1138 the pink is pink because that is what silicone I had lying around. As I explained earlier I needed these to be duplicated in silicone so when I mold the head in Epoxy resin I won't lock the tusks in. I will be splitting the mold right along the tusks centerline. The mold will have to be multiple pieces. When I go to cast the head in silicone I will place the original dental acrylic tusk back in place on the armature which is a duplicate of the head mechanism. If all goes well the tusks will do 2 things. 1, they will help align the mold to the armature and 2, they will help to make sure the mandibles fit around the tusk perfectly. Hopefully! I'm still trudging along. Thanks again everyone for keeping up with this build.
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