The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

[tk1055]

https://www.google.com/search?q=pep...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

First link was to a video explaining exactly how to unfold in Pepakura.

Pepakura Unfolding Tutorial Part 1 - YouTube

 

[Pilot]

Re: Pepakura HELP

i can't believe that no one has posted to help you yet. i am disappointed in this forum.

If you think 3 hours is a long time to wait for a response on a free internet message board, you've got a TON of disappointment to look forward to in life.

 

[Chaotic Descent]

https://www.google.com/search?q=pep...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

First link was to a video explaining exactly how to unfold in Pepakura.

Well I must have used different search terms than you, and I was unlucky. It shouldn't be that way, but it is.

Pepakura Unfolding Tutorial Part 1 - YouTube

Hm. A little hard for someone new to follow when it's sped-up.
Why does he use this method? Is it the only good method, or is there more than one? My model isn't as clean with the edges as his. I'm not sure how I can copy it.

 

[elro]

Im concerned that people have said they have googled and not found anything ??? :facepalm

Let me google that for you < Please click this to ensure you actually searched xD ACTUALY CLICK THE LINKS AND READ THEM.


:lol But seriously, you should try making something from pep, then you will understand what works well on an unfold and what doesnt.

Really, no one wants to be giving the information out when it exists, honestly it feels a bit like :

"Everything served on a plate please!"

 

[elro]

I've just realized that many papercraft models are closed shapes. I suppose that means that those are difficult to reinforce with other materials.

To solve that problem, you assemble the whole thing, paint resin on the outside (small portions at a time to avoid sagging), then pop a hole in it and fill with foam

 

[Chaotic Descent]

To solve that problem, you assemble the whole thing, paint resin on the outside (small portions at a time to avoid sagging), then pop a hole in it and fill with foam

Ah. Although I remember hearing that you had to use a specific kind of foam that doesn't expand after it sets. (because even though it's reinforced on the outside, I guess it can still deform slightly with the right amount of pressure.)
"red and blue" or something??

Let me google that for you

>TL;DR: RTFM
What do any of us need this forum for then? Just to show off?

Search engines are not good teachers, and I know this from experience. The rest of the internet is not as great as wikipedia. The internet in general sucks.
Education requires context (says Noam Chomsky). I wouldn't be that absolute about it. I'd frame it in terms of efficiency. Humans know a lot of things, and having each one of us learn them by trial and error is inefficient. Most of us will not end up in the same ideal place by the time we die.
If a community around a hobby can't provide comprehensive material for people to start out, either create it, or expect lots of "stupid questions" from people who have no idea what's going on. After people "start" by slogging through the mud, they reach a point where "they (think they) know", at which point the problem seems to be gone. (although that depends how you define the problem. If self-assurance is the problem, we could skip education and just gain the faith that we know from the start.)
The fact is, the internet is full of a lot of different people, and not all of them (including adults) are ideal autodidacts, so don't treat them that way.

Ohhhh, internet. One of these days... One of these days. *shakes fist angrily*

 

[elro]

>TL;DR: RTFM
What do any of us need this forum for then? Just to show off?

Search engines are not good teachers, and I know this from experience. The rest of the internet is not as great as wikipedia. The internet in general sucks.
Education requires context (says Noam Chomsky). I wouldn't be that absolute about it. I'd frame it in terms of efficiency. Humans know a lot of things, and having each one of us learn them by trial and error is inefficient. Most of us will not end up in the same ideal place by the time we die.
If a community around a hobby can't provide comprehensive material for people to start out, either create it, or expect lots of "stupid questions" from people who have no idea what's going on. After people "start" by slogging through the mud, they reach a point where "they (think they) know", at which point the problem seems to be gone. (although that depends how you define the problem. If self-assurance is the problem, we could skip education and just gain the faith that we know from the start.)
The fact is, the internet is full of a lot of different people, and not all of them (including adults) are ideal autodidacts, so don't treat them that way.

Ohhhh, internet. One of these days... One of these days. *shakes fist angrily*

'RTFM' - There is no need for that attitude around here,
and you've missed the point entirely.

- All the information people need to know exists already, and the purpose of people having to rewrite what is already there is quite pointless. Seriously, all we can write is exactly the same as what has been written elsewhere (google search).

- This forum is mostly a great place to show what progress you've made, and receive advice where to head. If there is nothing to show, and only a one way communication, the system fails.

-If a community around a hobby can't provide comprehensive material for people to start out, either create it, or expect lots of "stupid questions" from people who have no idea what's going on. = = = This thread has recapped the same thing MULTIPLE times (Search feature up top )

- Search engines are not good teachers, and I know this from experience. = Thats why reading was made. Of course asking a search engine a question wont answer it, you have to click links, go to the page, and start reading.

 

[89Forever]

I've been following the tutorials Stealth put up. This weekend I went to pick up the Smooth Cast 321 he recommends. Unfortunately, I spent almost the entire weekend failing to find a store anywhere in LA or OC that carried it. I finally found the small kit of Smooth Cast 300 with a 7 minute pot life. Apparently Cali passed a law which bans the 320 series and many chemicals quantity of 1 gallon or more; which includes turpentine and urethane.

Anyone have alternatives?

 

[89Forever]

Re: Pepakura HELP

If you think 3 hours is a long time to wait for a response on a free internet message board, you've got a TON of disappointment to look forward to in life.

:thumbsup

 

[Deelite]

I've been following the tutorials Stealth put up. This weekend I went to pick up the Smooth Cast 321 he recommends. Unfortunately, I spent almost the entire weekend failing to find a store anywhere in LA or OC that carried it. I finally found the small kit of Smooth Cast 300 with a 7 minute pot life. Apparently Cali passed a law which bans the 320 series and many chemicals quantity of 1 gallon or more; which includes turpentine and urethane.

Anyone have alternatives?

Unfortunately, most of these places cater to the Hollywood crowd, so they are only open during the week (no weekends)

this is where I get it locally (in L.A.):

Smooth-Cast™ 300 Series Bright White Liquid Plastic | Reynolds Advanced Materials | Everything for Mold Making & Casting

the guys there are helpful. don't ask them about how much to buy, but you can ask them on what kind of product you should buy based on the project you are doing.

 

[89Forever]

i bought the small 300 kit. i know its white and the 321 is off-white, are there any other significant differences?

also, the 300 has such a short pot life, do you find that its an issue?

 

[Deelite]

i bought the small 300 kit. i know its white and the 321 is off-white, are there any other significant differences?

320 series are just easier to pigment (that means you can add color to the resin while mixing). You can buy resin dye pretty much at the same place you buy the Smooth Cast supplies

also, the 300 has such a short pot life, do you find that its an issue?

Honestly no. You just need to be quick. If you know you'll take longer to get the stuff onto your item, then get one that has a longer pot life/demold time.

I've never taken more than 10 minutes to get the stuff onto an item; and faster if I have someone helping me. Even something the size of a helmet.

 

[89Forever]

can i do sections without issue? I'm hoping to do my chest armor tonight.

 

[Deelite]

can i do sections without issue? I'm hoping to do my chest armor tonight.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAV0w/UmSVGy1oghs/s760/20120619_231233.jpg

why do you want to use smooth cast 320 series on the torso area? (it's good to use, but for small items, not for anything bigger than a helmet or a basket ball sized item)

best for that area, are:
fiberglass
Rondo (bondo with resin)
foam (EVA) - you'll have to modify your template.


ETA:
Keep in mind that that the torso/back piece of a costume/armor is going to be put under a lot of stress. With you moving, bending, twist etc, you have to make sure its durable. You'll have to use something that will be able to take that abuse. Smooth Cast 320 series is great, but I've broken items that were cast using the 320 series (it was thigh piece for an armor)

 

[89Forever]

just going off Stealths hero tutorials. he suggests SmoothCast 321 on the outside, then spray adhesive on the inside, the lay fiberglass over that, and then coat with SmoothCast 321.

This gives the strength needed from the inside and the ability to sand and/or bond the outside.

 

[Deelite]

just going off Stealths hero tutorials. he suggests SmoothCast 321 on the outside, then spray adhesive on the inside, the lay fiberglass over that, and then coat with SmoothCast 321.

This gives the strength needed from the inside and the ability to sand and/or bond the outside.

I'm not sure of his tutorials - and each person has his/her own method, I experimented on my own, by making several pieces several times before I was happy with the results, from my experience with Pepakura (and this is how I built my BGC armor)

Resin the outside (Fiberglass resin) 2 layers
Resin the inside (2 layers)
Rondo (1 layer)
Fiberglass the inside (2 layers)
Resin (1 layer) to catch any fb cloth that didn't get the resin.

It was sturdy, I could sand it and durable enough. This was done for every piece on the costume.

The reason for Fiberglass resin, is that it's way cheaper than Smooth Cast to harden the outside of an item, and you'd be using with the Fiberglass cloth and making Rondo anyway. No extra items to be bought.

 

[89Forever]

where do you get your resin? any brand/formula suggestions?

 

[Deelite]

where do you get your resin? any brand/formula suggestions?

3M brand or the generic brand from Home Depot or Lowes (it's usually in the Paint Department or near it)

 

[89Forever]

Sweet, i'm stopping by HD on my way home to pick up the other supplies i need as well.

I've been teaching my friend the ways of pepakura as well. He's tackling a 2.5 foot Serenity/Firefly model. since its multiple sections that are all enclosed and glued together, reaching the inside isnt really reasonable. whats the suggestion there?

 

[Deelite]

Sweet, i'm stopping by HD on my way home to pick up the other supplies i need as well.

I've been teaching my friend the ways of pepakura as well. He's tackling a 2.5 foot Serenity/Firefly model. since its multiple sections that are all enclosed and glued together, reaching the inside isnt really reasonable. whats the suggestion there?

Honestly, there is no real "easy" way. I usually look at hte Pepakura model and figure out in my head " how am I going to get this together?"

My solution sometimes is to just re-unfold it, so that I work in sections, and make a common "seam", that I don't glue together until I'm done with the rest of the model.