You can easily remove the motor including the bushing and drive shaft by unscrewing the little grub screw in the section of the hilt which is covered by the Graflex clamp. I actually used 3 bearings in the hilt, two are sitting in the emitter, one inside the grenade section.I believe it's 6V - Vadermania made the hilt and he said the motor needs 6V to run. I can see the end of the motor with red and black wires hot glued in place at the end. They run right to a battery pack (4 AAAs)
I actually am planning on interrupting the red wire and putting a toggle switch in the booster. AND I'll be switching the 4 AAAs for 2 3V coin cell batteries. The battery pack is much smaller (and it has it's own tiny switch too I guess) so I'll be doing a little soldering at the black wire, 2 at the switch and then splicing that to the battery packs red. I think?
There is a bearing at the emitter plate and the drive shaft runs right up the neck. I don't remember if there is anything else in there.
ANH Obi Wan special effects lightsaber replica project
Thank you! This is stuff I'm still learning, man they don't have much of a current, I guess watches don't need it hahahaCertainly looks & sounds correct. Really nice saber.
Coin cells are not going to work for you, I've just checked the spec's. Max rate continuous amp draw for CR 2032 is 3.0 mAmps (0.03 amp). The spec sheet for JGA 370 motor it draws 20 mAmp (0.2 amp) no load ; 50 mAmp (0.5 amp) under normal load & may even peak near 100 mAmp (1 amp) as used here. Amphr (should I be wrong) is a 3rd that of AAA so would not last long at all. You could look at 2x LiPo AAA. These are normally rated 3.7V so would run a little fast without a buck voltage regulator keep it down. Would last longer than alkalies & be rechargeable.
PS. Doesn't matter which wire you put the switch on, it's just convention it would be red one.
Thanks so much - Toggle switches are a bit big and I've been trying to find correct power thats a tad smaller.You can easily remove the motor including the bushing and drive shaft by unscrewing the little grub screw in the section of the hilt which is covered by the Graflex clamp. I actually used 3 bearings in the hilt, two are sitting in the emitter, one inside the grenade section.
StevenJust for fun, I took your video and used the bright blade as a matte for rotoscoping the blade in After Effects. Just used levels to get a matte, blurred it out a few times, and added color. Didn't do any cleanup (see: blue glow on the hilt, the back wall, etc...). It's cool that it preserved the flicker, and how it disappears when pointed towards the camera. Kinda reminds me of ANH.
It occurred to me today that the V3 has no switch hole, but a hole for wires... leading me to think it was a primitive version with just an external battery pack and possibly a switch outside with it if at all. Just pop the batteries in and let it go honestly
here’s the pommel screwed in, the battery pack fits with the wires and snap connector kinda jammed in there. The GF modeled for me!
View attachment 1362324 View attachment 1362326
remember they kept these special effects blades for sparring in the warehouse
Are there any pictures of this wire hole? Are you talking about the depression under the silver tape? If so how do you know it's a hole & not the depression for a grub screw? TBH I'm in agreement with Halliwax ( ) that it was never motorised.V3 has no switch hole, but a hole for wires...
Are there any pictures of this wire hole? Are you talking about the depression under the silver tape? If so how do you know it's a hole & not the depression for a grub screw? TBH I'm in agreement with Halliwax ( ) that it was never motorised.
From my own research on this I think the battery packs would have been very similar to this one for Vader's costume, which is prob 5x large NiCad cells at 1.2V ea. for 6V supply. I know that even the 2x AA Lipos I use don't last that long, 5-10min continuous use, so something with more reserve would be desirable for stuff like the duel scene.
I was thinking about this last night - is the theory youre talking about, basically that the V3 was never finished?
I do think they lathed the V2 heavily to get it more true, and maybe the "set up" made it too fragile for the chorepgraphy for ESB (when choosing a beater/rehearsal stunt)
I absolutely was talking about the hole beneath the foil tape - it is admittedly true it could be a dimple or a half drilled hole under thay tape or something. It is where the mystery chunk is on the V2
Good thinking on that battery pack, putting the switch in mine made me realize how necessary it would be to have the actors switch them on themselves with everyone else out of frame.
Has anyone noticed this fx tape/black pattern on the V3 or Graflex Stunt in the BTS videos from empire other than the warehouse? Im wondering if they broke them or the ANH blades stuck around and survived
I was & do subscribe to the theory the V3 was an unfinished motor stunt. So that may or may not be a hole for wires. Certainly is a hole of some sort, threaded or not. I'm also convince the V2 was used for off screen choreographing/stunt work & is robust enough for that.is the theory youre talking about, basically that the V3 was never finished?