The Last of Us HBO Joel Thread

It’s definitely the weekender 40mm case but I also haven’t found the proper dial and hands aftermarket yet. Not a lot of sub seconds dials come up that are even close.
 
Wanted to share my find. User stopmo in a separate thread about the watch recommend the Timex Weekender. I rolled with that, dug for hours through NATO straps, I feel semi-confident in my result. Only problem is I can't find the right hands.
Can you tell me where you get that NATO strap?
 
It looks like Joel's watch dial design was heavily inspired by the Lum-Tec Combat B2.

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What did you use to get such perfect weathering details. I used sandpaper, but it looks too clean.
Thanks!!! I took the sandpaper bit on my Dremel and made the markings match as close as I could, and then I took high grit sandpaper to the spots and the edges of said spots to smooth it out. There are still a few knicks here and there from the Dremel, but it worked really well for me.
 
FYI - The River Island shirt runs big, so if you want something a little closer fitting, I'd recommend sizing down. The size chart on their site is way off.

Received mine today, and decided to return it for a Medium.
 
FYI - The River Island shirt runs big, so if you want something a little closer fitting, I'd recommend sizing down. The size chart on their site is way off.

Received mine today, and decided to return it for a Medium.

Can confirm, it's what I meant by "longish", although I think it's probably gonna come down to taste with most folks. I bought mine Medium true to size, and while it's slightly roomier on me than the Fjallraven it doesn't feel oversized. I guess the rule of thumb would be: anyone who wants a tight(er) fit better order one size down. If you prefer looser fitting then true to size will probably work.
 
So I confirmed with the prop master of the show that the flashlight has black cloth tape (gaff tape most likely) and white hockey tape.
Also, the front lens has a layer of 1/2 CTB filter (not sure of whether that's on the outside, or inside on the lens).
Was not able to confirm the clip however, but I'm sure we can figure that out - and already did find out.

I bought a LED replacement, with a reflector from a place in Australia off ebay. It'll be nice to have a flashlight that is 1080 lumens lol.

Additionally, I drilled holes for my clip into the flashlight, cut some flat nail heads, and hammered them into the flashlight for a secure fit, but also topped it off with JB Weld to get a tight grip.

Also got some D Cell Lithium Ion batteries from Pale Blue Earth.

Will post photos soon.
 
Created an account after seeing this thread. Super interesting! Does anyone know if this is the Buck 110 or 112?
 

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Can confirm, it's what I meant by "longish", although I think it's probably gonna come down to taste with most folks. I bought mine Medium true to size, and while it's slightly roomier on me than the Fjallraven it doesn't feel oversized. I guess the rule of thumb would be: anyone who wants a tight(er) fit better order one size down. If you prefer looser fitting then true to size will probably work.
I must have gotten a weird size then. It's marked as Large, but the measurements compared to their website has it in the XL specs. I'll wait for the Medium and should be good to go. It's a nice shirt though.
 
So I confirmed with the prop master of the show that the flashlight has black cloth tape (gaff tape most likely) and white hockey tape.
Also, the front lens has a layer of 1/2 CTB filter (not sure of whether that's on the outside, or inside on the lens).
Was not able to confirm the clip however, but I'm sure we can figure that out - and already did find out.

I bought a LED replacement, with a reflector from a place in Australia off ebay. It'll be nice to have a flashlight that is 1080 lumens lol.

Additionally, I drilled holes for my clip into the flashlight, cut some flat nail heads, and hammered them into the flashlight for a secure fit, but also topped it off with JB Weld to get a tight grip.

Also got some D Cell Lithium Ion batteries from Pale Blue Earth.

Will post photos soon.
For the black tape, I used 1-inch Hockey Tape, and split it down the middle:
IMG_20230321_093345152.jpg


And completed flashlight:
IMG_20230321_093552550.jpg
 
I knew there had to be someone out there who made custom dials.

Prepare for the onslaught messages and questions when you finish. Haha. Can’t wait to see what you get made up
I found the watch hands! I won't share until they get here, just in case I'm wrong so I don't waste anyone's time. Still waiting on my Etsy source for the face.
 
Here are my photos for my completed flashlight!
LED module as well.

*The ONLY remaining thing I need to do is bend the clip more towards the flashlight, but at this point, I’m going to have to use a propane torch to heat up just the right area to make the bend, because this clip is going nowhere lol.

Let me know what you guys think!

EQUIPMENT LIST:
-Maglite: Ebay. Look for "Vintage 2D Cell Maglite" and make sure that it's not too scuffed up, because you will have to do alot of manual scuffing with sandpaper. You'll also need to remove the rubber button, if you're going for screen accuracy.
-Batteries: Pale Blue Earth Rechargable Lithium DCell Batteries (Link). (Optional).
-Clip:
  • Comes from a Vintage US Army Fulton MX-99 (Link). You'll have to bend the clip a little, so make sure you're smart about your bending (see photo).
  • The clip will have to be cut at the marker, then slowly bent around the curvature of the Maglite so that it is a flush fit to prevent any fitting issues.
  • Once you've bent it, you'll have to drill holes into the Maglite.
  • Best area to mark for hole drilling is when the Maglite is focused all the way in - that will be your best place to do your weathering lined up as well.
  • Once you've placed the clip, marked your holes (with painters tape), and drill (NOT ALL THE WAY THROUGH - you might hit the plastic module inside). I'll post the exact size of drill bit here soon.
  • Instead of push rivets, I used a steel/strong nail, and sawed it down to just the flat top and like 4mm worth of nail. With that, I was able to hammer in the nail head through the clip holes into the Maglite.
  • Lastly, BEFORE hammering, I put JBWeld in the cracks and under/around the nail bit (Cleanly - have latex gloves on and a Qtip ready to wipe up any excess - comes off pretty easy).
  • Once there's a tight fit, then.....
-Tape:
  • Standard industry Gaff Tape (black). Tear the right thickness of gaff tape off and wrap it around the area where the clip attaches to the Maglite (do about 1 1/2 rotations of it, ending the seam right before the clip).
  • Renfrew Scapa Cloth Hockey Tape 2-Pack, Black & White, 1" x 25m x 1 (Link). Wrap the white tape around the base of the grip of the flashlight. You'll want to do 2 full rotations, and end the seam on the side with the clip. That second layer is to make adjustments to the top layer, so that the top layer looks thinner than the bottom (as seen in reference photos). - You can also use the black tape in this pack if you wanted.
-LED: LimelightLED off of Ebay. Make sure you order "Maglite Incandescent 2D" then choose "EXTREME 8W 1-3V 1080LM" or dimmable option (Link). (Optional).
-1/2 CTB: Amazon (Link). Remove the lens, and use it as a cutting reference over the CTB. Cut it out, and then place it below the lens, so that it makes contact with the LED reflector/incandescent if you're not swapping. Make sure to pay attention to the O-ring when putting the front back together (that should go before the lens).

WEATHERING:
When you choose to weather, make marks on the flashlight where you want to make the damage - you can use my photos as reference, or the many posted here. Some additions of mine were added after extensive viewing of the reference photos. General rule of thumb: If you see spot on the flashlight, and it's there in multiple photos, it isn't the reflections: it's a scuff or mark.
From there, if you can find an adjustable power drill and jerry rig it with a piece of wood and super glue some 100-200 grit sandpaper at the end, and go to town (you can also use a dremel).
You can also scuff up by hand on some more delicate and needed areas.
It'll first scratch, and then slowly reveal the aluminum underneath. Be careful with your pressure, but also be aware that the longer and more you hold here, it'll shine the aluminum underneath quickly, but also clog up the sandpaper, leaving a thick layer of paint residue on your sandpaper, and you'll have to swap out.
You can also use the asphalt outside to ding up/scratch up certain areas.
For the soiled/dirty look, honestly, if you've been working on this for a couple hours and have had tools in your hand, just rub your hands over it, or rub the tape areas up against your work station/tools. Worked wonders for me lol.

Happy prop making yall!
 

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