The King's Man- Duke of Oxford Leather coat.

[Malibu139]

It seems that the map pocket position is A+.

You are correct sir and thanks I was actually looking at the mr porter reproduction when I posted that.
It’s right where it needs to be for the screen coat. I did have them increase the size on the pocket a bit though but kept the position.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Hi,
What is purpose of chest pocket/ hole? Although this wasn't in any other scene.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Hey Malibu139,
Did you ask him about add seam on front, smaller lapel and shorter collar?

 

[Oxford]

Hi,
What is purpose of chest pocket/ hole? Although this wasn't in any other scene.
View attachment 1546650

It’s a continuity error. It’s for a safety harness.

 

[Malibu139]

Hey Malibu139,
Did you ask him about add seam on front, smaller lapel and shorter collar?

Not sure exactly which seams you mean except the collar.

The collar is a compromise for practicality. Screen used collar was really tall and not designed to lay down at all.
The seams on the collar are there for "up only" feature so I just went with a normal type collar.

What are the other seams you are referring to ?

 

[Jameel Ur]

I was talking about marked seam and wider lapel and appropriate chest pocket. There is only 4 buttons hole in original coat.

 

[Malibu139]

I was talking about marked seam and wider lapel and appropriate chest pocket. There is only 4 buttons hole in original coat.
View attachment 1546704

Appreciate the feedback and you are right on the 4 buttons on the screen coat ( I think, unless there is one tucked away under the belt)
This is sort of a hybrid and it lines up much closer to the Mr Porter than screen used just for practicality.


The lapels are bigger on the screen coat but when worn open man are they big and floppy.
The lapel will probably go closer to your penciled in line but not all the way.
Trying to find a mix of daily wear practicality and screen accuracy.
The pocket is being re sized probably to pretty close to what you have outlined.

 

[joberg]

Appreciate the feedback and you are right on the 4 buttons on the screen coat ( I think, unless there is one tucked away under the belt)
This is sort of a hybrid and it lines up much closer to the Mr Porter than screen used just for practicality.


The lapels are bigger on the screen coat but when worn open man are they big and floppy.
The lapel will probably go closer to your penciled in line but not all the way.
Trying to find a mix of daily wear practicality and screen accuracy.
The pocket is being re sized probably to pretty close to what you have outlined.

I'm sure Oxford can answer this question: it's a 4 or 5 button's coat

 

[Oxford]

Screen worn one is 4 button.

The ones made for the film look great on screen, and were made to be comfortable for Ralph to fight and climb with, without being constrictive.

Completely impractical as a coat to wear, and to be honest, it would look weird in a modern context and not so great. It would stand out for all the wrong reasons. They went with four button on the screen coat as it looked too busy with the rig on and it also made movement tighter. So when it was redesigned for the Kingsman label, it was done so to be more practical in the real world but also giving a nod to the vintage design. Because hardly anyone will wear it buttoned up to the neck, an extra button was added to make the lapel and collar tighter, and to retain a tight silhouette.

 

[Jameel Ur]

This is 3 quarter/ parka coat and there is no slit on back even on both sides, that's why they made it on A-line shape and it's mandatory, due to walk easily.
It's mostly common in women clothing but, I think the man doesn't like it.

 

[Malibu139]

My wife has a couple coats like that and i “think” the movie coat is not made like that. Maybe since it has only 4 buttons it Flairs at the bottom. But for the most part the lines look pretty squared off until he wears the rig

When he wears the rig it’s worn higher (and maybe with the lower 4th button undone)than the waist belt and tighter to hold all the gear in place and gives it that Flaired out look you describe.

I could be way off though .

 

[Oxford]

You’re pretty much right Malibu139 It does flare out slightly from the waist compared to the Mr Porter though. Again, for fighting and climbing purposes to give Ralph more freedom of movement as he is very expressive in his stances. Amazingly fit, he did the chimney climb and most of the rest himself. A stuntman was going to be used, but he did it no problem.

Its that bottom picture that makes you think it’s an A shape. It’s very deceptive.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Yeah it's true, this is not A-line shape coat but flare out at bottom.

 

[Malibu139]

Yeah it's true, this is not A-line shape coat but flare out at bottom.

View attachment 1547438

That is a great reference pic! Have not seen it. Thanks for posting it up
While its very cool and looks great in the movie man that collar would be odd to wear daily....

 

[joberg]

You’re pretty much right Malibu139 It does flare out slightly from the waist compared to the Mr Porter though. Again, for fighting and climbing purposes to give Ralph more freedom of movement as he is very expressive in his stances. Amazingly fit, he did the chimney climb and most of the rest himself. A stuntman was going to be used, but he did it no problem.

Its that bottom picture that makes you think it’s an A shape. It’s very deceptive.

Thank you Oxford for your time, help and invaluable knowledge of the costumes and the behind the scene stories; very gracious

 

[Jameel Ur]

I just received new darker leather.

 

[Oxford]

That’s much closer. Nice one.

 

[Malibu139]

This is getting me amped up. Once I finish up my project run I and one other smaller project I am all over making the harness rig, gun, bowie, and sword and knives for the map pocket set up.

 

[joberg]

You’re pretty much right Malibu139 It does flare out slightly from the waist compared to the Mr Porter though. Again, for fighting and climbing purposes to give Ralph more freedom of movement as he is very expressive in his stances. Amazingly fit, he did the chimney climb and most of the rest himself. A stuntman was going to be used, but he did it no problem.

Its that bottom picture that makes you think it’s an A shape. It’s very deceptive.

And another important thing about the so-called "flare" of the coat: he's wearing riding breaches; a larger pant design that's already flaring more than a normal pair of slacks.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Hello friends,

I just started my first interest thread separately about kings man coat.
Likely we'll complete our first sample in mid March and post updates.