The King's Man- Duke of Oxford Leather coat.

Malibu139

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It seems that the map pocket position is A+.(y)
You are correct sir and thanks I was actually looking at the mr porter reproduction when I posted that.
It’s right where it needs to be for the screen coat. I did have them increase the size on the pocket a bit though but kept the position.
 

Jameel Ur

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi,
What is purpose of chest pocket/ hole? Although this wasn't in any other scene.
WhatsApp Image 2022-02-15 at 7.50.03 PM.jpeg
 

Malibu139

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey Malibu139,
Did you ask him about add seam on front, smaller lapel and shorter collar?
Not sure exactly which seams you mean except the collar.

The collar is a compromise for practicality. Screen used collar was really tall and not designed to lay down at all.
The seams on the collar are there for "up only" feature so I just went with a normal type collar.

What are the other seams you are referring to ?
 

Jameel Ur

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I was talking about marked seam and wider lapel and appropriate chest pocket. There is only 4 buttons hole in original coat.
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Malibu139

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I was talking about marked seam and wider lapel and appropriate chest pocket. There is only 4 buttons hole in original coat.
View attachment 1546704
Appreciate the feedback and you are right on the 4 buttons on the screen coat ( I think, unless there is one tucked away under the belt)
This is sort of a hybrid and it lines up much closer to the Mr Porter than screen used just for practicality.


The lapels are bigger on the screen coat but when worn open man are they big and floppy.
The lapel will probably go closer to your penciled in line but not all the way.
Trying to find a mix of daily wear practicality and screen accuracy.
The pocket is being re sized probably to pretty close to what you have outlined.
 

joberg

Master Member
Appreciate the feedback and you are right on the 4 buttons on the screen coat ( I think, unless there is one tucked away under the belt)
This is sort of a hybrid and it lines up much closer to the Mr Porter than screen used just for practicality.


The lapels are bigger on the screen coat but when worn open man are they big and floppy.
The lapel will probably go closer to your penciled in line but not all the way.
Trying to find a mix of daily wear practicality and screen accuracy.
The pocket is being re sized probably to pretty close to what you have outlined.
I'm sure Oxford can answer this question: it's a 4 or 5 button's coat:unsure:
 

Oxford

Active Member
Screen worn one is 4 button.

The ones made for the film look great on screen, and were made to be comfortable for Ralph to fight and climb with, without being constrictive.

Completely impractical as a coat to wear, and to be honest, it would look weird in a modern context and not so great. It would stand out for all the wrong reasons. They went with four button on the screen coat as it looked too busy with the rig on and it also made movement tighter. So when it was redesigned for the Kingsman label, it was done so to be more practical in the real world but also giving a nod to the vintage design. Because hardly anyone will wear it buttoned up to the neck, an extra button was added to make the lapel and collar tighter, and to retain a tight silhouette.
 
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Jameel Ur

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is 3 quarter/ parka coat and there is no slit on back even on both sides, that's why they made it on A-line shape and it's mandatory, due to walk easily.
It's mostly common in women clothing but, I think the man doesn't like it.
 
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Malibu139

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
My wife has a couple coats like that and i “think” the movie coat is not made like that. Maybe since it has only 4 buttons it Flairs at the bottom. But for the most part the lines look pretty squared off until he wears the rig

When he wears the rig it’s worn higher (and maybe with the lower 4th button undone)than the waist belt and tighter to hold all the gear in place and gives it that Flaired out look you describe.

I could be way off though .
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Oxford

Active Member
You’re pretty much right Malibu139 It does flare out slightly from the waist compared to the Mr Porter though. Again, for fighting and climbing purposes to give Ralph more freedom of movement as he is very expressive in his stances. Amazingly fit, he did the chimney climb and most of the rest himself. A stuntman was going to be used, but he did it no problem.

Its that bottom picture that makes you think it’s an A shape. It’s very deceptive.
 

joberg

Master Member
You’re pretty much right Malibu139 It does flare out slightly from the waist compared to the Mr Porter though. Again, for fighting and climbing purposes to give Ralph more freedom of movement as he is very expressive in his stances. Amazingly fit, he did the chimney climb and most of the rest himself. A stuntman was going to be used, but he did it no problem.

Its that bottom picture that makes you think it’s an A shape. It’s very deceptive.
Thank you Oxford for your time, help and invaluable knowledge of the costumes and the behind the scene stories; very gracious :cool::cool:(y)(y)
 

Malibu139

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is getting me amped up. Once I finish up my project run I and one other smaller project I am all over making the harness rig, gun, bowie, and sword and knives for the map pocket set up.
 
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joberg

Master Member
You’re pretty much right Malibu139 It does flare out slightly from the waist compared to the Mr Porter though. Again, for fighting and climbing purposes to give Ralph more freedom of movement as he is very expressive in his stances. Amazingly fit, he did the chimney climb and most of the rest himself. A stuntman was going to be used, but he did it no problem.

Its that bottom picture that makes you think it’s an A shape. It’s very deceptive.
And another important thing about the so-called "flare" of the coat: he's wearing riding breaches; a larger pant design that's already flaring more than a normal pair of slacks.
 

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