The DEFINITIVE VADER Q&A session - time to ARCHIVE?

I was going to bring this up myself. Since the armor topic has quieted a bit, does anyone mind if we start discussing the belt and boxes?
 
Sounds cool! I don't know much of any sources for the boxes but have some stuff. I have a set of raw project boxes like those used for the Vader suit you see in the Archives book. Got those here. But, they are slightly bigger than all of the boxes used in the movies meesa thinks.

What are the questions? Maybe we'll find a source on those lousy green buttons one of these days. Aaahhhh!
 
Hi darthjones!

For the belt, I just need to get the green caps (lenses) and the boxes themselves. Are all the boxes that you have seen the same? If not, how do they differ?

I also need to make patterns for the capes. Do you have, or can you get info that might help me? I've been dragging my heals on the capes because I want to make sure that I have accurate patterns and material to work with.

As I recall, the outer MOM cape that I saw was a coat weight wool and the inner cape was a Gaberdine. So far, I haven't found the correct fabrics in a store yet.

This MOM outer cape appeared to have been made from three panels of fabric joined together with two seams running from the collar, over the shoulders, and to the bottom of the cape.

Can anyone confirm any my cape assumptions?
 
As someone who made the cape himself, I would say that you would find it nearly practically impossible to do the cape in just 3 segments, as I don't think yo'd be able to find fabric which had a width that's long enough. They are normally 60" max, and this would mean you would need to do 45 degree segments. I did 6 of these segments, but found that actually 5 segments (total of 225 degrees) was better than the 270 degrees recommended by the Vader Maker sites.

As for the material, I went with wool (but not the woolly type but the cotton-like type), and satin for the inner lining. For the inner cape I used the same wool material.
 
Funny. The capes always threw me for a loop but while at ILM I took a Vader cape off one of their mannequins and layed it out on the floor. It was just over being a half circle. Just beyond 180 degrees I guess. It was not a movie cape - it was the one they use for the Vader bookmark image, packaging images, and other things - the leather collar stands up straight for some reason. That one. Also, there is no allowance for a shoulder. Thats what allows it to hang open - its all flat.

On every version I found, the cape and inner cape were both heavy wool. Yes, satin lining on the outer only.
 
Cool, some replies! Thanks for your continued input here guys.

KL - I definitely take your experience into consideration when finally deciding what to do. I haven't drawn anything out yet, but I am thinking that if my outer cape fabric is say, 55" wide, that would mean that each finished panel should be at least 50" wide at the bottom of the cape. (I am taking into account the seams.) If they are 50" wide when finished, I would wind up with a cape that is 150" in diameter when measuring the bottom of it width-wise, from end to end.

So, there's some numbers off the top of my head. Now go ahead and shoot 'em down!
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Does anyone know how many panels were used to make the movie capes that they have seen?
 
What was the word again on this chest armor version (Prop Palace)? I remember it has been disussed somewhere on the RPF a few weeks ago, but can't seem to find the thread anymore... Is it based on the GT armor?

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2106052164&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1032486733&indexURL=0&rd=1

Any usefull input on this from you guys?

EDIT: Oops, I just managed to open the "Prop Palace" thread (never worked when I tried before). So this shed some light as what to being aware of...


Thanks!

h.
 
hah!! I knew it!!! I too figured that there's no way the cape could be 270 like what the VAder Maker sites suggest!!
Even after I took off one panel and made it 225, there's still a bit of "spare" left.

Mind you, I don't think the ESB version (at least) was only slightly more than 180 though cos if it's only slightly more than 180, I don't think the cape would be able to cover the shoulder bells completely, and in ESB you can see many scenes when this is the case.
For me, I don't want the bells covered (otherwise it'd seem such a waste to not display the bells and leather suit on the upper arms!
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), so I would imagine about 200 degrees would be about right. (At 225 I can still totally cover the bells.)

KC, as for your figures, I'm not sure if I'm totally with you, and this is hard to explain in just words. I'm in a rush right now, but maybe later I'll post a drawing of how I made mine.
 
Yah, 200 degrees sounds about right. At least for the cape I looked at. They may have bigger ones there but who knows. I wonder what GT made them at. Does anyone know?
 
Hmm...I just recently stumbled upon this Forum and I must thank you all for your incredible contribution! I have learned so much!

However, I am wondering what has happened?

No more info to post? Or has this gone on another discussion board/thread?

Dme3o
 
Welcome aboard!

I guess most of the major issues have been thrashed out already.

Do you have any questions you want to add?
 
Hi KL!

Thanks for the welcome!
I thouroughly enjoy your site and your Vader looks awesome!

Well, I still have many questions but I am not prepared to list them in a coherent manner at this time but one question that does come to mind are the tusks.

I am wondering which are the more accurate ones:
Rounded
OR
Pointy?

I think the GT tusks (pointy) are nice but a bit too fat.
I bumped into a fellow named "Russ" at C2 and he had a modified DLX DV helmet with pointy tusks that seem a bit smaller. He said that they were not GT and that someone had made them for him. I am wondering who?

Again, thanks for the welcome and I am looking forward to being in this community!

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Dme3o
 
</SPAN><TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>Quote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color> I bumped into a fellow named "Russ" at C2 and he had a modified DLX DV helmet with pointy tusks that seem a bit smaller. He said that they were not GT and that someone had made them for him. I am wondering who?
</TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE><SPAN CLASS=$row_color>

haha, I'm 99.9% sure that's our Darth Bill.
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Yo Russ, where are ya???
The tusks themselves were made by Ultraseven, and are apparently the best and most accurate out there.

As for the helmet... well, they're not being made anymore anyway (I believe), so doesn't matter who did it..
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As I recall, the rounded tusks were in ANH and ESB. The pointed tusks were in ROTJ. Something like that but there might have been some overlap too.
 
Hi DJ!

Thanks for all your help and info.!
Much appreciated.

Re: tusks.
I think it may be the other way around.
ANH = pointed
ESB+ROTJ = Rounded.

I will check but I am unsure.

Dme3o
 
Remember the guy who was casting an ANH helmet for a collector, offered pulls to the board and never returned? Well, one bit of info that came out of that thread was that the ANH helmet had conical tusks.

Is Ultraseven an RPF member?
 
what are the actual dimention of the boxes? I know the GT boxes are more retangle not square like they should be.
 
The guy with the ANH helmet did not disappear. It is just that in recent months there have been a few scares of people being targeted and subsequently threatened with legal action for making such offers.

As for the tusks. they were only rounded in ANH. They became pointy for ESB and ROTJ. Here is an image of the tusks used in ANH. This sample was remade to the exact measurements of the ANH helmets tusks. This one was machined in aluminum.

anhTusk1a.JPG


Here is the casting of the ANH face. I think that you can see from this shot that it is clearly not a recast off a Fiberdyne helmet. It is a direct casting off of my original. Note that the face is not small or distorted, and that the neck is very broad. The neck was broader in the ANH version Vader and made narrower in the next two films for some reason. This shot was taken just after it was pulled from the mold and it had not been cleaned up at all so it is very raw. It still needs to be sanded and filled where necessary. I made this copy so that I can display the copy and pack up my original so that it will not run the risk of being damaged. Prior to this my original was on display and people who saw it all wanted to touch it even though it was behind a display case.

FirstPull.jpg
 
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