The Amazing Spider-man 2 - 3D Print Files/Pattern - FREE

I like it, almost there.
Here's my edit to the pattern side by side with the movie suit, once printed it'll print darker and I feel that'll be close to screen accurate color minus the shine and effect the movie suit hasView attachment 315510

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Yeah this looks great, I'd love to see how it comes out printed.

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Yeah this looks great, I'd love to see how it comes out printed.

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In due time my friend, trying to rush this for may 2 but don't think I'm gonna make my deadline. :(

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Edited it a bit, think I'm going with it this way. I feel since the colors darken a bit when printing, its going to print and come out well. What do you all think?
I would love to print the file as it is but from my personal experience with printing, I don't need it to print out dark since it will.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h88/chrisalvarez93/Untitled_zps1f5cfbd9.png


That's spot on. If you were to remove the muscle shading. I think you would have it exactly like in the movie. Please post a pic when you have this printed.
 
That's spot on. If you were to remove the muscle shading. I think you would have it exactly like in the movie. Please post a pic when you have this printed.

Thanks man, glad to hear others opinion. :)
I would remove the shading, but I personally enjoy the shading. :D
 
I can tell you how I will approach the lenses and maybe some others here can chime in with other tips...

Once you have downloaded and resized the face shell, frames and lenses... I would print the lenses in whatever material you can get. Smooth the printed parts, automobile spot putty works great for this. Once you have the lenses as smooth as you can get them, cast them in silicone. You can go the expensive route and purchase special molding materials from Smooth-on (which last for several copies) or you can try and make a couple of simple plaster molds. One sided should be fine.
View attachment 316164

Then get yourself some clear casting resin.
View attachment 316165
Castin'Craft Clear Polyester Casting Resin - BLICK art materials

Pour your lenses using gravity to get them even and as thin as possible. I would a millimeter thick is fine.
Once cured you need to wet sand and polish...all the while making sure the fit well in the frames.

Find a product like this:
View attachment 316166
White One way Vision Printable / Paintable Perforat Window Tinting Mesh Film. Fly Eye self adhesive vinyl 1.07x50m Free shipping-in Special Store from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com
...and back your new lenses with it. Glue them into your frames and---

That's it!

Once again, there are many ways to do these things... this is just how I might go about it.

Thanks for all of the help! I'm definitely taking all of this and putting it in my toolbox for when I get back to the states. I would like to have one of these suits ready for CCSD next year as it will be my first one!
 
Stupid question :) cant u just upload a pic of the movie suit to ir photoshop and them use the pipette tool or something on the red and blue and save the color of it in ur colors? Then u can just use that colors on ur pattern. By that way you get the exact same color or not?
I never used photoshop but with manga studio i can do it that way.


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Stupid question :) cant u just upload a pic of the movie suit to ir photoshop and them use the pipette tool or something on the red and blue and save the color of it in ur colors? Then u can just use that colors on ur pattern. By that way you get the exact same color or not?
I never used photoshop but with manga studio i can do it that way.


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I actually tried that and I got pretty good colors. Only thing is, in a lot of the movie photos the lighting and shades are always different because of the material. As you notice in the photos, it gives off a really nice shine that transitions into other shades of red, making it a bit difficult.

Imo, it doesn't matter which red we use because no matter how accurate we get the red, it will never accurately reflect the movie suit because of the fabric they used in the movie (which I think is moleskin spandex, nylon + spandex). We can't actually print anything on a nylon fabric because it'll melt under extreme heats.
 
the thing about the movie suit is, that the shiny deep red lycra, changes colours based on the lightnin, so it's not that easy to pinpoint it's natural colour, you can very well give it a try ofcourse :)
 
Id just pick a pic from the set i like and go with it. Sadly my ms freezes cause the pattern file is too huge for it and my mac. Maybe i will be able to split it in several files tonwork on it


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don't know about mac, but it works very easily on windows 8, yeah, our city library is quite packed with the latest computers, they have everything in them :D

- - - Updated - - -

you can also try this site Aron, http://pixlr.com/ it's like an online photoshop
 
don't know about mac, but it works very easily on windows 8, yeah, our city library is quite packed with the latest computers, they have everything in them :D

Lol. Thats cool :)
My mac is from 2013 and is the fully packed. Thats why im wondering. So i blame the prgram with the converting and what it has to do to open the file.

--- updated---

Thanks alot. I will try it after work ;)


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I'm beginning the paint process in about a week or 2... or 3... lol! So what does everyone recommend for the webbing? I'm going to use Tulip Metallics paint, but which colour does everyone think looks better... black or grey? I'm going to make the spiders (back and front) out of latex... ahhh, how exciting!!
 
Look at a movie suit or other suit without shading and look a orhadar suit or any suit with shading.

the-amazing-spider-man-2-set-photos-with-a-suited-up-rhino.jpgandrew-garfield-on-set-the-amazing-spider-man-2-02.jpg

To illustrate your point, movie suit doesn't have any muscle shading (from what I can tell)

also, do you guys think there is something underneath the fabric that gives off the brick pattern shade? I noticed that if the suit is stretched in a certain way, the blue brick pattern will disappear.
 
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Hello Oracle1982,
After taking a closer look, we cannot print models in order 423824 (placed on 04/20/2014).

  • We've credited €28.62 to your Shapeways account.
  • You may be able to update and print your models based on the information below.
If you have questions or concerns contact us at: service@shapeways.com. We're happy to talk with you about these rejected models before you update them.
Model: Shooter-withButton (1)
Materials Affected:

Here are some details to help you resolve this issue:

  • Reason: Thin Walls
  • Description: The minimum wall thickness for this material is 0.7mm. Once you thicken the walls, we can print your model without it breaking. If you really do want these details so thin, you could choose another material that has a smaller minimum requirement.Find additional information in the attached image.
Model: Shooter (1)
Materials Affected:

Here are some details to help you resolve this issue:

  • Reason: Thin Walls
  • Description: The minimum wall thickness for this material is 0.7mm. Once you thicken the walls, we can print your model without it breaking. If you really do want these details so thin, you could choose another material that has a smaller minimum requirement.Find additional information in the attached image.
To print (and continue to sell) your model modify your file and update it here:http://www.shapeways.com/model/edit/1884784.
We know you've already put a lot of time and effort in creating your models. If we can help in any way email us at: service@shapeways.com.
Kind regards,

The Shapeways Team

so is anyone else having this problem?...
Kenundrum... any help mate?
 
So how do they actually make they movie suit? Like get the honeycomb detail and webbing done on it if it is the moleskin spandex?
 
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