Conqueror_Worm
Well-Known Member
Sure, go for it. These drawings are by no means complete. They detail the resin arm, not a real machine. I have a long way to go before the drawings are something I would want to give to a machinist.
Terminator T-800 Blueprints
- Thread starter Conqueror_Worm
- Start date
Conqueror_Worm
Well-Known Member
New drawings:
The Complete Forearm Cover Sheet, Exploded View, Parts List
Imperial Wrist Pin
Imperial Forearm Cuff Profile
Updated Drawings:
Forearm Main Support: Cover Page, Exploded View, Parts List
Imperial Wrist - Main Bushing
Elbow and large wrist set screw
Thumb - Distal Phalanx
The Complete Forearm Cover Sheet, Exploded View, Parts List
Imperial Wrist Pin
Imperial Forearm Cuff Profile
Updated Drawings:
Forearm Main Support: Cover Page, Exploded View, Parts List
Imperial Wrist - Main Bushing
Elbow and large wrist set screw
Thumb - Distal Phalanx
Wonderful work!
TheDevilYouSay
New Member
A Design Modification to the Terminator T-800 Blueprints
Modification to the part called "Lug" on the wrist-plate section of the blueprints
Specs and instructions
Sorry it took so long. Here are some instructions for a modification to one of the parts of the hand. Photos with explanations on RPF page 6.
Lumbrical Piston Lug.
The original resin model has a tab that is glued in to attach the clevis end of the lumbrical piston. In metal, especially functioning metal, gluing isn't practical and because of the proximity and small size welding also isn't practical.
The illustration above shows the finished modified lug design on the left with the lug as it is being developed starting with the second to the fourth. I will explain them. The letters represent dimensions in the order that you will need them.
Starting with A: This dimension is .250, the starting diameter of rod needed to machine into a lug. Since the original resin model has a lug width of .250, it makes sense to start with this dimension.
Dimension B: Immediately I should point out that this dimension will end up at .250, the thickness of the wrist plate that it screws into, but, to insure that the bottom of the screw is absolutely flush with the bottom of the wrist plate, start by cutting the thread section .260 and we'll grind off the excess later.
Dimension C: We'll be cutting threads of 10-24 so start with a diameter of about .180. You'll notice above the threads is a little waist labeled D. Unless you have or are good with a lathe threading attachment, you'll be hand threading this using a tap and die set. The problem is that not all thread dies thread flush. Often they have a flared throat to start the work. Because of this, if you didn't have this little waist on D, the lug will not seat flush with the surface of the wrist plate. The diameter of D should be should be around .170 so that the difference between D and C should be near the depth of your thread. The width of D from thread to lug is based on the depth of your thread die's flare. For me it's about 1/16 of an inch.
Dimension E: This is the visible part of the lug and it has a specific height measured by Conqueror_Worm. That height is .375 but as you can see, I make another waist above that dimension to be snapped off later but in the mean time it is working material.
Dimension F: Here's the controversial but useful dimension. You need to be able to clamp your work without marring or damaging it while you cut threads. Dimension F is there for this purpose. It is approximately .250 but what's most important is that you have a solid area to grip with a vice or pliers that isn't the end product. As I noted before, the little waist is a demarcation from the intended work and the future scrap and will aide in the future separation of the two. Cut that waist to a diameter of about .170. (Illustration 2)
Clamp the work by the area referred to as dimension F in your vice, thread dimension B. (illustration 3)
Note: I took a small block of steel, approximately 3 inches by 4 inches by 1 inch thick and on the 3 inch side drilled a hole and tapped in 10-24 about a half inch from the edge. This served two purposes, maybe three. First, after threading my lug, I screw it into the steel block to make sure the lug seats flush. If not, I put the threader on again and carefully cut a half a thread. Once I'm satisfied that the lug seats flush, I'm ready to mill the lug and the steel block will act as my holder by holding the lug by the threads to keep from damaging any visual part of the lug. A secondary reason for using the steel block is that it saves my wrist plate from accidental damage. There are a lot of holes and a whole lot of work in the wrist plates and you don't want to risk ruining them by repeatedly screwing and unscrewing potentially damaging threads into them. The steel block also cleans out the threads when you screw the lugs into them. A suggestion: Try running the threading die two or three times just to make sure the tolerance is such that the lugs screw in easily. Each pass of the die makes the tolerance a little looser.
The last image on the right is what you're shooting for. Screw all your lugs into the wrist plate until seated and using a Sharpie, draw a straight line across the top of each lug (across the A portion of the F dimension scrap part), The line represents the angle you'll want for the flat part when the lugs are finished and seated on the wrist plate. This line will give you a visual cue and you'll line up your mill's cutting bit to cut parallel to that line. Screw the unfinished lug into the previously mentioned steel block tool and clamp the steel block into your mill vice. Turn the lug so that the line you drew is parallel to the cutting head and cut one side of the lug. Rotate the lug in the steel block so that the other side of the Sharpie line is also parallel to the cutting bit and cut the other side of the lug. The total thickness of the flat part of the lug is supposed to be .063.
There are a variety of approaches to getting to that thickness in the middle of what was once a round rod such as subtracting .063 from .250 and dividing the difference by 2 and taking that number and milling that much material from each side of the line but everyone has their own technique so long as the lug ends up only .063+-.
If you are using a 1/8 inch cutting bit, you can turn the lug at this stage perpendicular to the bit and plunge the bit for the screw hole otherwise drill it later. (illustration 4)
Once finished, using pliers, snap off the F dimension and carefully grind a radius and you have a finished lug that when seated in the wrist plate looks right and sits at the correct angle.
Once all four lugs are seated in the wrist plate, carefully file, grind or belt sand the protruding threads flush with the bottom. (illustration 1) Finish sanding by going 220 grit to 320 grit to 600 grit. This will get you smooth enough for plating.
Materials:
Because of trial and error, I've made these things several times now and I can tell you that material choice definitely comes into play. It has been suggested to take 10-24 rod and just grind a flat spot. If you do this, you end up with a very narrow lug with a serpentine edge. It doesn't look right and if your wrist plate is aluminum the dissimilar metals will cause electrolysis which will result in corrosion. Also if you grind off the threads at the upper end to look smooth, there isn't enough material left to drill a hole. If you use aluminum rod, say Home Depot type, although it is soft, it is also brittle. This results in the thread cutter ripping the entire B dimension off of the lug about the time you are finished cutting the threads. My box is full of little broken threadless lugs. I did this repeatedly. The other approach was to not cut the D dimension, the waist. This worked better but after threading, I had to rechuck the lug in the lathe to put that waist in so the lug would seat flat but getting it to re-center was extremely difficult especially on a piece that small. Often I'd end up with an off-center waist that would break off while checking it in my steel block. My box is full of little-bitty drilled out quarter-inch lengths of aluminum threaded rods that I fished out of my steel block. What I have found is brass rod is the solution. Metalurgically it is mild enough that electrolysis is minimal, it is much easier to cut and work with both in the lathe and with hand thread cutters. Although not as structurally as strong as steel, it is much stronger than aluminum. One of the negatives of the aluminum lug is that at .063 thick, it is prone to bend or break off especially once you've drilled a relatively giant hole of .125 thru it. Another benefit to using brass is that it is easier to chrome than aluminum. In fact on-line for $35 is a whole home chroming kit that will chrome brass in one easy step.
Go to RPF Page 6 for Photos of this entire manufacturing process.
Modification to the part called "Lug" on the wrist-plate section of the blueprints
Specs and instructions
Sorry it took so long. Here are some instructions for a modification to one of the parts of the hand. Photos with explanations on RPF page 6.
Lumbrical Piston Lug.
The original resin model has a tab that is glued in to attach the clevis end of the lumbrical piston. In metal, especially functioning metal, gluing isn't practical and because of the proximity and small size welding also isn't practical.
The illustration above shows the finished modified lug design on the left with the lug as it is being developed starting with the second to the fourth. I will explain them. The letters represent dimensions in the order that you will need them.
Starting with A: This dimension is .250, the starting diameter of rod needed to machine into a lug. Since the original resin model has a lug width of .250, it makes sense to start with this dimension.
Dimension B: Immediately I should point out that this dimension will end up at .250, the thickness of the wrist plate that it screws into, but, to insure that the bottom of the screw is absolutely flush with the bottom of the wrist plate, start by cutting the thread section .260 and we'll grind off the excess later.
Dimension C: We'll be cutting threads of 10-24 so start with a diameter of about .180. You'll notice above the threads is a little waist labeled D. Unless you have or are good with a lathe threading attachment, you'll be hand threading this using a tap and die set. The problem is that not all thread dies thread flush. Often they have a flared throat to start the work. Because of this, if you didn't have this little waist on D, the lug will not seat flush with the surface of the wrist plate. The diameter of D should be should be around .170 so that the difference between D and C should be near the depth of your thread. The width of D from thread to lug is based on the depth of your thread die's flare. For me it's about 1/16 of an inch.
Dimension E: This is the visible part of the lug and it has a specific height measured by Conqueror_Worm. That height is .375 but as you can see, I make another waist above that dimension to be snapped off later but in the mean time it is working material.
Dimension F: Here's the controversial but useful dimension. You need to be able to clamp your work without marring or damaging it while you cut threads. Dimension F is there for this purpose. It is approximately .250 but what's most important is that you have a solid area to grip with a vice or pliers that isn't the end product. As I noted before, the little waist is a demarcation from the intended work and the future scrap and will aide in the future separation of the two. Cut that waist to a diameter of about .170. (Illustration 2)
Clamp the work by the area referred to as dimension F in your vice, thread dimension B. (illustration 3)
Note: I took a small block of steel, approximately 3 inches by 4 inches by 1 inch thick and on the 3 inch side drilled a hole and tapped in 10-24 about a half inch from the edge. This served two purposes, maybe three. First, after threading my lug, I screw it into the steel block to make sure the lug seats flush. If not, I put the threader on again and carefully cut a half a thread. Once I'm satisfied that the lug seats flush, I'm ready to mill the lug and the steel block will act as my holder by holding the lug by the threads to keep from damaging any visual part of the lug. A secondary reason for using the steel block is that it saves my wrist plate from accidental damage. There are a lot of holes and a whole lot of work in the wrist plates and you don't want to risk ruining them by repeatedly screwing and unscrewing potentially damaging threads into them. The steel block also cleans out the threads when you screw the lugs into them. A suggestion: Try running the threading die two or three times just to make sure the tolerance is such that the lugs screw in easily. Each pass of the die makes the tolerance a little looser.
The last image on the right is what you're shooting for. Screw all your lugs into the wrist plate until seated and using a Sharpie, draw a straight line across the top of each lug (across the A portion of the F dimension scrap part), The line represents the angle you'll want for the flat part when the lugs are finished and seated on the wrist plate. This line will give you a visual cue and you'll line up your mill's cutting bit to cut parallel to that line. Screw the unfinished lug into the previously mentioned steel block tool and clamp the steel block into your mill vice. Turn the lug so that the line you drew is parallel to the cutting head and cut one side of the lug. Rotate the lug in the steel block so that the other side of the Sharpie line is also parallel to the cutting bit and cut the other side of the lug. The total thickness of the flat part of the lug is supposed to be .063.
There are a variety of approaches to getting to that thickness in the middle of what was once a round rod such as subtracting .063 from .250 and dividing the difference by 2 and taking that number and milling that much material from each side of the line but everyone has their own technique so long as the lug ends up only .063+-.
If you are using a 1/8 inch cutting bit, you can turn the lug at this stage perpendicular to the bit and plunge the bit for the screw hole otherwise drill it later. (illustration 4)
Once finished, using pliers, snap off the F dimension and carefully grind a radius and you have a finished lug that when seated in the wrist plate looks right and sits at the correct angle.
Once all four lugs are seated in the wrist plate, carefully file, grind or belt sand the protruding threads flush with the bottom. (illustration 1) Finish sanding by going 220 grit to 320 grit to 600 grit. This will get you smooth enough for plating.
Materials:
Because of trial and error, I've made these things several times now and I can tell you that material choice definitely comes into play. It has been suggested to take 10-24 rod and just grind a flat spot. If you do this, you end up with a very narrow lug with a serpentine edge. It doesn't look right and if your wrist plate is aluminum the dissimilar metals will cause electrolysis which will result in corrosion. Also if you grind off the threads at the upper end to look smooth, there isn't enough material left to drill a hole. If you use aluminum rod, say Home Depot type, although it is soft, it is also brittle. This results in the thread cutter ripping the entire B dimension off of the lug about the time you are finished cutting the threads. My box is full of little broken threadless lugs. I did this repeatedly. The other approach was to not cut the D dimension, the waist. This worked better but after threading, I had to rechuck the lug in the lathe to put that waist in so the lug would seat flat but getting it to re-center was extremely difficult especially on a piece that small. Often I'd end up with an off-center waist that would break off while checking it in my steel block. My box is full of little-bitty drilled out quarter-inch lengths of aluminum threaded rods that I fished out of my steel block. What I have found is brass rod is the solution. Metalurgically it is mild enough that electrolysis is minimal, it is much easier to cut and work with both in the lathe and with hand thread cutters. Although not as structurally as strong as steel, it is much stronger than aluminum. One of the negatives of the aluminum lug is that at .063 thick, it is prone to bend or break off especially once you've drilled a relatively giant hole of .125 thru it. Another benefit to using brass is that it is easier to chrome than aluminum. In fact on-line for $35 is a whole home chroming kit that will chrome brass in one easy step.
Go to RPF Page 6 for Photos of this entire manufacturing process.
Last edited:
TheDevilYouSay
New Member
One other note;
The main wrist ball seems to be the business end of a swivel impact socket. Harbor Freight sells a whole set for $30 but the ball is too small. I just picked up a closer one at Graingers but much pricier, about $50 for the one. Looking into Grey pneumatic. They list all the dimensions but the ball so I'm going to have to go look at some. If I'm reading your dimensions right, the ball is 1 inch in diameter and the base is an inch and a quarter which is the typical diameter of an inch and an 8th swivel impact socket. Also most are made pin-less now which makes them harder to break down. Harbor Freight still has the pins and I think Grey pneumatic can also be disassembled without a grinder. The Grainger one I have by Proto Tools is all one piece, no seam over the pin. Tricky.
The R/C Car company Team Associated sells 10mm balls which would work great for the lateral and ventral wrist balls. I think the original Terminator wrist balls were made from hatch-back lift gate piston mount ball studs but that size is very hard to find now. There is a German company that sells 3/8 inch (10mm) ball studs but they would need additional machining to work. The R/C car balls for 1/5 scale front suspensions by Team Associated are a much easier get but you need to modify the original design to make them work. That explanation will be coming in the future.
The main wrist ball seems to be the business end of a swivel impact socket. Harbor Freight sells a whole set for $30 but the ball is too small. I just picked up a closer one at Graingers but much pricier, about $50 for the one. Looking into Grey pneumatic. They list all the dimensions but the ball so I'm going to have to go look at some. If I'm reading your dimensions right, the ball is 1 inch in diameter and the base is an inch and a quarter which is the typical diameter of an inch and an 8th swivel impact socket. Also most are made pin-less now which makes them harder to break down. Harbor Freight still has the pins and I think Grey pneumatic can also be disassembled without a grinder. The Grainger one I have by Proto Tools is all one piece, no seam over the pin. Tricky.
The R/C Car company Team Associated sells 10mm balls which would work great for the lateral and ventral wrist balls. I think the original Terminator wrist balls were made from hatch-back lift gate piston mount ball studs but that size is very hard to find now. There is a German company that sells 3/8 inch (10mm) ball studs but they would need additional machining to work. The R/C car balls for 1/5 scale front suspensions by Team Associated are a much easier get but you need to modify the original design to make them work. That explanation will be coming in the future.
Last edited:
TheDevilYouSay
New Member
A Design Modification to The Terminator T-800 Blueprints
Modification to the part called "Lug" as part of the wrist plate section of the Blueprints
How To Do It
Hover over image for picture number.
As I promised, I have illustrations to detail the Lumbrical Piston attachment lug modification that I outlined in an earlier posting. Here are images and details of the process as described. All dimensions, measurements can be found at the end of RPF page 5.
Pic 1 and 2 shows quarter-inch brass rod being turned to get the length and outer diameter of measurement B.
Pic 3 shows the little waist being cut. This feature allows the lug to seat flush against the wrist plate.
Pic 4 shows how to use the dial calipers to score a mark for the height of the lug before cutting.
Pic 5 shows cutting a waist again (measurement E) over the .375 that makes the visible lug. This waist will be a break-off for removal later.
Pic 6 shows the cut-off about a quarter inch above the visible lug. This little extra will be the clamping surface for threading.
Pic 7 shows the basic piece before threading and milling.
Pic 8 shows that little extra clamped into a vice before threading. This preserves the lug from being marred when finished.
Modification to the part called "Lug" as part of the wrist plate section of the Blueprints
How To Do It
Hover over image for picture number.
As I promised, I have illustrations to detail the Lumbrical Piston attachment lug modification that I outlined in an earlier posting. Here are images and details of the process as described. All dimensions, measurements can be found at the end of RPF page 5.
Pic 1 and 2 shows quarter-inch brass rod being turned to get the length and outer diameter of measurement B.
Pic 3 shows the little waist being cut. This feature allows the lug to seat flush against the wrist plate.
Pic 4 shows how to use the dial calipers to score a mark for the height of the lug before cutting.
Pic 5 shows cutting a waist again (measurement E) over the .375 that makes the visible lug. This waist will be a break-off for removal later.
Pic 6 shows the cut-off about a quarter inch above the visible lug. This little extra will be the clamping surface for threading.
Pic 7 shows the basic piece before threading and milling.
Pic 8 shows that little extra clamped into a vice before threading. This preserves the lug from being marred when finished.
Last edited:
TheDevilYouSay
New Member
Here are more illustrations of how to produce the modified lumbrical piston attachment lug.
Hover over image for picture number.
All dimensions are covered at the end of RPF page 5.
Pic 9 shows a Irwin Brand mini threader cutting 10-24 threads on dimension B. I actually cut the threads a second time using a harbor freight threader which has a shallower starting throat. The effect is I get smooth threads that get the lug to seat flush to the surface of the wrist plate.
Pic 10 shows the end result still in the vice.
Pic 11 illustrates a tool I made. This block of steel allows me to hold the work by the threads for future processes.
Pic 12 also illustrates the part in the tool. The block of steel also makes a test bed to see if my threads allow for the lug to seat flush with the surface of the wrist plate without accidentally damaging the wrist plate. Here, the high contrast between the dark foreground and the white door show that this lug will seat flush. No light shows under the seat.
Pic 13 shows the end product before milling. Notice the top (dimension F) is significantly damaged from the vice. This is the sacrificial part of the machining, designed to be damaged and eventually removed.
Pic 14 shows that a modification must be made to the design of the wrist plate, or in my case, wrist plates as I am building a right and a left hand. Under the right plate is the original Conqueror_Worm drawing with the lugs represented as rectangles along each metacarpal location. After drawing the blueprint for the wrist-plate, Conqueror_Worm recognized that the lugs should be screw-in spade bolts so he added this follow-up illustration (under the left wrist plate) of how the lugs ought to work as spade bolts but never drew a design for them. Thus, my contribution is a design for the spade bolt-lugs and instructions on how to make them. The only dimension given in Conqueror_Worm's illustration is the 10-24 thread pitch. So, to modify the wrist plates to accept spade bolts, take a center punch and punch a divit dead-center of each of the lug rectangles. Drill them with a .156 (1/8 inch ) drill and thread to 10-24. This may affect the outline of the wrist plate so be prepared to leave a little extra material where the lugs go.
Pic 15 shows both wrist plates with the pre-milled lugs seated. The original drawing has the angles of the lugs set specifically. To get that specific angle with the lugs seated, start with a seated lug as seen here and draw a line thru the center of each lug corresponding to the angle on the drawing. If, like me, you are doing a left hand, get the angles correct on the right wrist plate first, then do the left by drawing the angle opposite of the right set of lugs but opposite by the same degree. Think of each line on both sets of lugs as one-half of a V and make the lines mirror each other.
Pic 16 As I mentioned in the earlier posting, the thickness of the wrist plate is .250 or quarter-inch but we cut and threaded the dimension B at .260 so that the threads exceeded the thickness of the wrist plate. Here is how that should look. When we're done, we'll grind each of those lug-ends flush with the base of the wrist plate so that they don't interfere with the flex-mechanism to be made later. Plus it will look cleaner.
Hover over image for picture number.
All dimensions are covered at the end of RPF page 5.
Pic 9 shows a Irwin Brand mini threader cutting 10-24 threads on dimension B. I actually cut the threads a second time using a harbor freight threader which has a shallower starting throat. The effect is I get smooth threads that get the lug to seat flush to the surface of the wrist plate.
Pic 10 shows the end result still in the vice.
Pic 11 illustrates a tool I made. This block of steel allows me to hold the work by the threads for future processes.
Pic 12 also illustrates the part in the tool. The block of steel also makes a test bed to see if my threads allow for the lug to seat flush with the surface of the wrist plate without accidentally damaging the wrist plate. Here, the high contrast between the dark foreground and the white door show that this lug will seat flush. No light shows under the seat.
Pic 13 shows the end product before milling. Notice the top (dimension F) is significantly damaged from the vice. This is the sacrificial part of the machining, designed to be damaged and eventually removed.
Pic 14 shows that a modification must be made to the design of the wrist plate, or in my case, wrist plates as I am building a right and a left hand. Under the right plate is the original Conqueror_Worm drawing with the lugs represented as rectangles along each metacarpal location. After drawing the blueprint for the wrist-plate, Conqueror_Worm recognized that the lugs should be screw-in spade bolts so he added this follow-up illustration (under the left wrist plate) of how the lugs ought to work as spade bolts but never drew a design for them. Thus, my contribution is a design for the spade bolt-lugs and instructions on how to make them. The only dimension given in Conqueror_Worm's illustration is the 10-24 thread pitch. So, to modify the wrist plates to accept spade bolts, take a center punch and punch a divit dead-center of each of the lug rectangles. Drill them with a .156 (1/8 inch ) drill and thread to 10-24. This may affect the outline of the wrist plate so be prepared to leave a little extra material where the lugs go.
Pic 15 shows both wrist plates with the pre-milled lugs seated. The original drawing has the angles of the lugs set specifically. To get that specific angle with the lugs seated, start with a seated lug as seen here and draw a line thru the center of each lug corresponding to the angle on the drawing. If, like me, you are doing a left hand, get the angles correct on the right wrist plate first, then do the left by drawing the angle opposite of the right set of lugs but opposite by the same degree. Think of each line on both sets of lugs as one-half of a V and make the lines mirror each other.
Pic 16 As I mentioned in the earlier posting, the thickness of the wrist plate is .250 or quarter-inch but we cut and threaded the dimension B at .260 so that the threads exceeded the thickness of the wrist plate. Here is how that should look. When we're done, we'll grind each of those lug-ends flush with the base of the wrist plate so that they don't interfere with the flex-mechanism to be made later. Plus it will look cleaner.
Last edited:
TheDevilYouSay
New Member
Here is a continuation of the Lug Mod process. Here we are at the milling stage.
Hover over image for picture number.
All dimensions are given in a posting at the end of RPF page 5.
Pic 17 Shows the milling of the sides to create the "spade" part of the spade bolt that makes it a lug. I'm poor and so I'm using my drill press as a vertical mill. The bit is a 1/8 four-flute mill bit with a 3/16 inch shank. This gives me nice tight radiuses at the base of the lug. Here you will also see I am using the steel block again to hold the work by it's threads to keep from damaging it. You will also notice that sandwiched between the lug and the steel block is a square piece of metal. It is a thumb wheel designed to keep the work from rotating while the cutting head is against the lug. It is a lock-nut.
Pic 18 shows a straight-on view of the process. Once the depth is set for one side of the lug, after that side is cut, simply rotate the work 180 degrees and lock it with the thumb-wheel and cut the other side. I cut this so the thickness of the spade ends up being about .073 leaving material for grinding smooth later.
Pic 19 shows the piece out of the mill. Conqueror_Worm's original dimension for the thickness of this part is .063. The gap in the clevis under the lumbrical piston is .069 so I have a max dimension of .068 and a minimum dimension of .063. Anything between those number will work fine.
Pic 20 Here I have dimension F clamped in my pliers ready to break off.
Pic 21 shows the end snapped off, and ready to drill with the .125 hole, and then the top edge to be ground to a nice radius.
Pic 22 shows the finished product. The three scars across the top are the result of chatter during the milling process. Take every precaution to make sure your work is held tight. The R5 nomenclature is to remember where on the wrist plate this very lug goes. In this instance, R means Right, since I'm making a right hand and a left hand, and 5 means pinky following Conqueror_Worm's original nomenclature.
Pic 23 shows that seated, the lug fits at the appropriate angle in the wrist plate. The other unfinished lugs demonstrate my trial and error of not tightening the work while they were being milled but they do in fact seat at the correct angles. From these mistakes I devised the square thumb-wheel to lock them in the steel block before milling. I will be making replacements for those parts. If you're interested and want to know how I built the steel block tool and the square thumb-wheel, feel free to contact me.
Hover over image for picture number.
All dimensions are given in a posting at the end of RPF page 5.
Pic 17 Shows the milling of the sides to create the "spade" part of the spade bolt that makes it a lug. I'm poor and so I'm using my drill press as a vertical mill. The bit is a 1/8 four-flute mill bit with a 3/16 inch shank. This gives me nice tight radiuses at the base of the lug. Here you will also see I am using the steel block again to hold the work by it's threads to keep from damaging it. You will also notice that sandwiched between the lug and the steel block is a square piece of metal. It is a thumb wheel designed to keep the work from rotating while the cutting head is against the lug. It is a lock-nut.
Pic 18 shows a straight-on view of the process. Once the depth is set for one side of the lug, after that side is cut, simply rotate the work 180 degrees and lock it with the thumb-wheel and cut the other side. I cut this so the thickness of the spade ends up being about .073 leaving material for grinding smooth later.
Pic 19 shows the piece out of the mill. Conqueror_Worm's original dimension for the thickness of this part is .063. The gap in the clevis under the lumbrical piston is .069 so I have a max dimension of .068 and a minimum dimension of .063. Anything between those number will work fine.
Pic 20 Here I have dimension F clamped in my pliers ready to break off.
Pic 21 shows the end snapped off, and ready to drill with the .125 hole, and then the top edge to be ground to a nice radius.
Pic 22 shows the finished product. The three scars across the top are the result of chatter during the milling process. Take every precaution to make sure your work is held tight. The R5 nomenclature is to remember where on the wrist plate this very lug goes. In this instance, R means Right, since I'm making a right hand and a left hand, and 5 means pinky following Conqueror_Worm's original nomenclature.
Pic 23 shows that seated, the lug fits at the appropriate angle in the wrist plate. The other unfinished lugs demonstrate my trial and error of not tightening the work while they were being milled but they do in fact seat at the correct angles. From these mistakes I devised the square thumb-wheel to lock them in the steel block before milling. I will be making replacements for those parts. If you're interested and want to know how I built the steel block tool and the square thumb-wheel, feel free to contact me.
Last edited:
Conqueror_Worm
Well-Known Member
Now that I have access to more powerful software I can start doing some real engineering on this thing!
I've started playing around with the SimulationXpress feature of SolidWorks to do Finite Element Analysis (FEA). The basic procedure is:
1. Build a model and assigning a material (and material properties) to the model.
2. Select which area or areas of the model should be fixed.
3. Choose a location to apply a force, the direction of the force, and the strength of the force.
4. Run the simulation.
The simulation then spits out a pretty picture and an animation showing you where the Von Mises stresses are located, and how much the part will distort. From what I've heard, learning the software is the easy part. Knowing which areas to fix, and where to apply the forces to create meaningful data is the hard part.
For this first image (fingertip), I fixed the pivot point and applied a force at the cable attachment point (to simulate a pull on the cable). It doesn't look like much happened (and I suspect that I picked a bad place to fix the model). I tried a few other configurations and cranked up the force, but not much happened. This piece seems pretty solid.
This piece was much more interesting. I fixed it at the lower pivot, and applied a force to the top of the piece to bend it backwards. This is the same test shown in the animation I linked to earlier.
You can really see how the piece bent in this last image. Not only did it bend backwards, it also started to twist.
This software is meant as just a basic, first pass FEA for individual parts. Once I learn SolidWorks Simulation (not to be confused with SolidWorks SimulationExpress), I'll be able to do more accurate FEAs, and I'll be able to do assemblies!
I've started playing around with the SimulationXpress feature of SolidWorks to do Finite Element Analysis (FEA). The basic procedure is:
1. Build a model and assigning a material (and material properties) to the model.
2. Select which area or areas of the model should be fixed.
3. Choose a location to apply a force, the direction of the force, and the strength of the force.
4. Run the simulation.
The simulation then spits out a pretty picture and an animation showing you where the Von Mises stresses are located, and how much the part will distort. From what I've heard, learning the software is the easy part. Knowing which areas to fix, and where to apply the forces to create meaningful data is the hard part.
For this first image (fingertip), I fixed the pivot point and applied a force at the cable attachment point (to simulate a pull on the cable). It doesn't look like much happened (and I suspect that I picked a bad place to fix the model). I tried a few other configurations and cranked up the force, but not much happened. This piece seems pretty solid.
This piece was much more interesting. I fixed it at the lower pivot, and applied a force to the top of the piece to bend it backwards. This is the same test shown in the animation I linked to earlier.
You can really see how the piece bent in this last image. Not only did it bend backwards, it also started to twist.
This software is meant as just a basic, first pass FEA for individual parts. Once I learn SolidWorks Simulation (not to be confused with SolidWorks SimulationExpress), I'll be able to do more accurate FEAs, and I'll be able to do assemblies!
That is a cool little program 
That's the tip of the thumb right?
That's the tip of the thumb right?
Conqueror_Worm
Well-Known Member
Yeah, those are both thumb pieces. It's really neat to see just how much damage a T-800 can take
If only I had more accurate information regarding material properties...
If only I had more accurate information regarding material properties...
Well Kyle Reese described it as a "hyperalloy combat chassis".
Sarah Connor Chronicles stated that Coltan was used for heat resistance.
"Coltan as the key component in endoskeleton alloys was a concept first introduced in TSCC, though the production team for Terminator Salvation mistook this for canon established in the original movies and therefore included coltan as the alloy for the T-800s in their movie."
:facepalm :facepalm :facepalm
Who knows perhaps Skynet wouldn't even have used a metal and just gone with some sort of carbon nanontube alloy-thingy
Chrome plated of course :lol
Sarah Connor Chronicles stated that Coltan was used for heat resistance.
"Coltan as the key component in endoskeleton alloys was a concept first introduced in TSCC, though the production team for Terminator Salvation mistook this for canon established in the original movies and therefore included coltan as the alloy for the T-800s in their movie."
:facepalm :facepalm :facepalm
Who knows perhaps Skynet wouldn't even have used a metal and just gone with some sort of carbon nanontube alloy-thingy
Chrome plated of course :lol
TheDevilYouSay
New Member
Conqueror_Worm;
Very nice technology! I'd be interested to see comparisons of these stress-tests with differing metals, specifically aluminum, steel and stainless steel and brass. One of the factors that makes aluminum so appealing is it's lightness. That equates to speed, or reaction time but obviously is potentially fragile too. Stainless is also light but difficult to machine. Steel is heavy, but easy to machine and can take a beating but the heaviness would slow down reaction from servos and such.
Right now, I'm finding brass very useful for anchors like the lugs and also the piston cylinders but I'm using aluminum for the fingers and wrist plates because there's low stress directly on them. I'm using steel for the ball-joints in the wrist (to minimize scoring and wear) and I'm planning on using steel for the main forearm support since it attaches to a steel ball and will hold the geometry absolutely solid for the cables, worm-drive motors inside the other forearm pistons. In steel, the dorsal forearm rod or piston should be a solid foundation to build everything else on. This is, of course, all trial and error since I'm making these parts over and over again until one works. Your software looks like a great short-cut.
Very nice technology! I'd be interested to see comparisons of these stress-tests with differing metals, specifically aluminum, steel and stainless steel and brass. One of the factors that makes aluminum so appealing is it's lightness. That equates to speed, or reaction time but obviously is potentially fragile too. Stainless is also light but difficult to machine. Steel is heavy, but easy to machine and can take a beating but the heaviness would slow down reaction from servos and such.
Right now, I'm finding brass very useful for anchors like the lugs and also the piston cylinders but I'm using aluminum for the fingers and wrist plates because there's low stress directly on them. I'm using steel for the ball-joints in the wrist (to minimize scoring and wear) and I'm planning on using steel for the main forearm support since it attaches to a steel ball and will hold the geometry absolutely solid for the cables, worm-drive motors inside the other forearm pistons. In steel, the dorsal forearm rod or piston should be a solid foundation to build everything else on. This is, of course, all trial and error since I'm making these parts over and over again until one works. Your software looks like a great short-cut.
Last edited:
heyvern
New Member
I know this is an old topic, but I've gotten so much good info from the blueprints.
I am creating a 3D model of the endoskeleton and the reference here has been the best source for the hand and arm.
Based on the blueprints I have carefully built the arm portion to scale. I need to be able to animate this with a lot of human emotion and expression, and I need to have "expressive" hands.
One thing that I notice is that the fingers seem to be designed to be "straight" towards the palm. When the fingers bend or curl they go "straight". There is the "side to side" movement but when posing the hand/fingers this side to side movement just isn't "correct" compared to a human hand.
When I look at my own hand making a fist the the fingers bend at an angle towards the palm as the curl into a fist. Only the middle finger doesn't have this slight rotation as it's right in the middle. The basic structure of the endo hand doesn't have that ability unless you "bend" or twist it against the joints. If the joints aren't "tight" there is some play there to do this, but there is no mechanism in the engineering to do this from a mechanical/processor type control. I am building my 3D model to be as "mechanically" real as possible. All the pistons rigged and moving realistically but I still need it to be expressive.
To fix this for my computer 3D model, I have rotated the base of the index and pinky finger that controls the side to side movement just a few degrees off center from the main finger posts. This is that part that is "one piece" that rotates above the finger posts. I had to separate the block so I could rotate it freely to get the slight finger rotation. This causes the fingers to curl at a slight angle towards the palm. This makes a HUGE difference when I'm animating the hands. It looks more natural. It does cause the side to side connectors to hit each other which I will have to adjust. The other issue is the thumb. there should be some side to side "play" in the thumb that just isn't possible with the engineering of the endo design. I am simply going to cheat on that for my project.
(If there is any interest I can post images of this rotation adjustment. It's very slight but makes a huge visual difference in my opinion)
I bring this up because I am intrigued by the discussion of a "working" endo model that is "manufactured" by Skynet as compared to a realistic artistic display version that isn't functional. So if these were manufactured by Skynet the hands should have the same range of motion as a human hand. When I was posing the hand I built it just didn't look right when making a fist, pointing or curling the fingers, and I couldn't get the positions I wanted.
Just an FYI, I have used the blueprints posted here to build the arm portion of my 3D model. I've found other sources (not as detailed) for the rest of it. When complete I could potentially print this out on a 3D prototyper... if I can save up enough to buy one.
I am creating a 3D model of the endoskeleton and the reference here has been the best source for the hand and arm.
Based on the blueprints I have carefully built the arm portion to scale. I need to be able to animate this with a lot of human emotion and expression, and I need to have "expressive" hands.
One thing that I notice is that the fingers seem to be designed to be "straight" towards the palm. When the fingers bend or curl they go "straight". There is the "side to side" movement but when posing the hand/fingers this side to side movement just isn't "correct" compared to a human hand.
When I look at my own hand making a fist the the fingers bend at an angle towards the palm as the curl into a fist. Only the middle finger doesn't have this slight rotation as it's right in the middle. The basic structure of the endo hand doesn't have that ability unless you "bend" or twist it against the joints. If the joints aren't "tight" there is some play there to do this, but there is no mechanism in the engineering to do this from a mechanical/processor type control. I am building my 3D model to be as "mechanically" real as possible. All the pistons rigged and moving realistically but I still need it to be expressive.
To fix this for my computer 3D model, I have rotated the base of the index and pinky finger that controls the side to side movement just a few degrees off center from the main finger posts. This is that part that is "one piece" that rotates above the finger posts. I had to separate the block so I could rotate it freely to get the slight finger rotation. This causes the fingers to curl at a slight angle towards the palm. This makes a HUGE difference when I'm animating the hands. It looks more natural. It does cause the side to side connectors to hit each other which I will have to adjust. The other issue is the thumb. there should be some side to side "play" in the thumb that just isn't possible with the engineering of the endo design. I am simply going to cheat on that for my project.
(If there is any interest I can post images of this rotation adjustment. It's very slight but makes a huge visual difference in my opinion)
I bring this up because I am intrigued by the discussion of a "working" endo model that is "manufactured" by Skynet as compared to a realistic artistic display version that isn't functional. So if these were manufactured by Skynet the hands should have the same range of motion as a human hand. When I was posing the hand I built it just didn't look right when making a fist, pointing or curling the fingers, and I couldn't get the positions I wanted.
Just an FYI, I have used the blueprints posted here to build the arm portion of my 3D model. I've found other sources (not as detailed) for the rest of it. When complete I could potentially print this out on a 3D prototyper... if I can save up enough to buy one.
Just an FYI, I have used the blueprints posted here to build the arm portion of my 3D model. I've found other sources (not as detailed) for the rest of it. When complete I could potentially print this out on a 3D prototyper... if I can save up enough to buy one.
You should definitely start a thread
There are some quite good reference photos out there
Left photo is of the actual mechanical prop
and here is a video for inspiration
Also if you haven't already you should most certainly check out this brilliant Terminator build thread:
http://www.therpf.com/f9/t800-project-113785
He's also got detailed "how to" videos on youtube https://www.youtube.com/user/jazcreations/videos
Last edited by a moderator:
heyvern
New Member
Thanks for that video! hadn't seen that yet! It does confirm my original thought. The fingers do rotate slightly towards the palm (watch the pinky as it curls into a fist). I think that what I can do is create motion controls for the fingers that would slightly rotate the bottom part when making a fist or curling in. I am looking into using collision detection but it might be overkill. My project will be two T800's sitting at a table, lots of close ups from the waist up, chatting back and forth so the hands arms, head will need to be "perfect".You should definitely start a thread
and here is a video for inspiration
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmGntjXJAAA
I am going to be tweaking the models I made based on the blueprints in this thread. Even though the measurements were dead on, the spacing gets really tight. By scaling things down a bit I can avoid part intersection.
That thumb "spring" is also something that comes up in these terminator builds. It appears that the curved "spring" thumb connector is not seen in all versions on film and many debate it's inclusion. For example the resin models that people have been getting for the arm crushed in hydraulic press in the glass case, doesn't have that part. It was used in the T2 close up. I like that piece and will probably include it for visual clarity. It helps to define the hand shape. Without that spring the space between the thumb and index finger looks "empty". It creates that "webbing" for the thumb that looks really good but can also serve a function as a "spring" to control the thumb position.
I will start a new thread for my project. I am a new member here and wasn't sure if a purely 3D digital model construction thread was appropriate. My goals are similar to all the other endoskeleton fanatics... making it as real as possible. I plan to render this thing with all the bells and whistles... super realistic. It's going to take ages to render with all the reflections.
Conqueror_Worm
Well-Known Member
Looks like I've been "recast". I just noticed that kongfu_spacemonkey sold some of these drawings on ebay...
Sean
Sr Member
Time Traveler
New Member
Hi ! Conqueror_Worm. I found your blueprint of endoarm and the website "RPF" at a few days ago. very beautiful work. but I can't good to download these blueprint pictures. I found after I open those link. the pictures are all blurred. I just download at here but only 10s. so can you take that your blueprint to my email ? I am so sorry about this and my English. I searched the blueprint of T-800 endoskeleton arm for a long time. but I just found only you made it. I'm very need that. so...... I hope you can understand my mean. thank you very very much.
Last edited:
