Too Much Garlic
Master Member
In this instance, scanning is the only option. I would risk tearing the foam skull apart if I tried to mold it.
Oh for sure. I get that.In this instance, scanning is the only option. I would risk tearing the foam skull apart if I tried to mold it.
Very exiting indeedI have a lot of options to try out and will try to get a scan with sharper, crisper inscribed lines. But for a first scan... I'm blown away with what this scanner can accomplish in less than ideal situations and so insanely quickly. It's a big difference to go from 7-10 hours of scanning and an equal amount of aligning and fusing the slices, to getting a fully fused model in less than an hour. And in a much better quality than I could ever hope to achieve back then, because I didn't have the technical knowhow in order to get the maximum capabilities out of the David Laserscanner. With the 3DMakerPro Mole you don't need tech knowhow to achieve great scan. But... what I learned back then has helped me avoid some of the issues I'm seeing people on youtube making, because they move the scanner around way too fast.
It's INSANE.
Looking good. Which one would you think matches the EMP-Museum skull chrome finish?Yes, this is such good advice. When I was testing metallic paint finishes I wanted to see what prep, base coat, and clear coat combinations would give me the look I was going for. Set up a bunch of numbered spoons and kept notes on exactly what I did to each one:
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-Dana
You need to check out Quad remesher for BlenderHere's a picture of the scans. Since they are so simple, I may redo them with 3D modeling, so they match better with the rest. I will also look into learning retopology in Blender, so I can recreate the scans in better geometry and making it easier to edit things later and add in detail where it is missing.
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But with the ankle model here, I can reposition the toe models to their correct positions and once I get the ankle 3D modeled I will fuse each toe model to the ankle model and only leaving the very tip as separate pieces, like they are on the originals. Then I can also add in the extra pistons - the thin ones that go from the thinner bottom ones and back to the ankle ball piece. Hope that makes sense.
And once again the LFS ankle model doesn't completely match the SWS one. It's missing the bracket for the smallest pistons on the heel piece, as well as having an open hole, due to how it's supposed to be mounted - leaving out the ball joint connection between the ankle and shin piece. I'll try to recreate the origingal SWS look.
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