T1 and T2 Endoskeleton Research Thread
- Thread starter Too Much Garlic
- Start date
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
That's looking slick.
First casting looks pretty good, I expected to have to drill some of the holes out post-cast. It looks like I did get 2 bubbles in the interior pins though. I’ll see if I can fix that in another cast. Else I’ll repair/replace that as I work on the new masters.
-Dana
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Oh WOW, that's looking like a super clean casting. What silicone and resin are you using?
Thanks! I use Smooth-On products in general. For this part I used Mold Star 30 silicone and Smooth-Cast 300 resin. Tinted grey with their SO-Strong black tint.
I spray parts with Mann Ease Release 200 before molding.
Before I cast parts like this, I spray the mold with the same release, and lightly dust the mold with baby powder before I pour the resin.
-Dana
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Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Cool.
Computer acquired. Setup complete. Will install the scanner later. I'm over the moon.
Computer acquired. Setup complete. Will install the scanner later. I'm over the moon.
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Just for fun. Writing from the new computer now.
Looking forward to scanning some Terminator stuff.
Looking forward to scanning some Terminator stuff.
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Still pretty impressed with this creation. In my mind it is the best 1:6 scale endoskeleton ever made and the articulation is insane. Only 10 were made and they cost a lot, which is understandable considering the work that went into each one.
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Initial 3D scan test.
I cleaned up that CPU port casting (snapped from the Timeless skull). Just got rid of the tiny air bubbles that were in some of the hole features and gave it some fine sanding. I’m trying not to over-clean or sanitize the parts so they still have flaws like the screen used ones do.
-Dana
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Cool. But man. They really did sharpen those lines almost excessively.
Regarding the scan: sadly, due to the fact that I used metallic rub'n'buff on the skull it is now a little difficult to scan. If I had left it as it was, it would have been much easier. The shape is there, but sharp lines and details are a little fuzzy. I'll do a more thorough scan later once I get everything set up and get some of that evaporating concealing spray.
Regarding the scan: sadly, due to the fact that I used metallic rub'n'buff on the skull it is now a little difficult to scan. If I had left it as it was, it would have been much easier. The shape is there, but sharp lines and details are a little fuzzy. I'll do a more thorough scan later once I get everything set up and get some of that evaporating concealing spray.
swpropmaker
Sr Member
use powder or foot spray on the part... cheap man way of making it scannable.. should work ok for you..
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Thanks. I'll buy some next week.
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
What kind of paints can you use on top of Rub'n'Buff and not risk a negative reaction? I think the R'n'B may even act as a buffer between the foam surface and the paint... so could make it safer to try and paint it. I don't know. I'm not that knowledgeable regarding paints.
I don't personally have any experience painting over Rub'n'Buff. I used it once or twice 20 years ago. I remember it was like a wax-based product. Which makes me nervous about the idea of painting over it. I did find this thread here on the RPF regarding the matter:
Coat over the top of Rub-N-Buff?
For those who may be experienced with Rub-N-Buff... can you paint over the top of it? I'm doubting I'll be able to since it has a wax like consistency. Also, can you hit it with a clear coat or something to protect the finish after buffing???
www.therpf.com
Looks like a few people may have some experience doing it, and sounds like they're saying to use an acrylic clear coat over it first to seal the wax. Anyway, I don't know... thought maybe that thread might help.
-Dana
joberg
Legendary Member
When in doubt about the reaction of a product; you should get a test piece and write the different steps you took to achieve the effects you need
Yes, this is such good advice. When I was testing metallic paint finishes I wanted to see what prep, base coat, and clear coat combinations would give me the look I was going for. Set up a bunch of numbered spoons and kept notes on exactly what I did to each one:When in doubt about the reaction of a product; you should get a test piece and write the different steps you took to achieve the effects you need
-Dana
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
We talked about the DeltaDesignRus model earlier, which was reworked from an M1 scan. This is how my foam skull compares to it.
He got really close, but where he differs, it's really profound. The main issue with his rework are the temple openings - he probably didn't account for the uneven shrinkage of the M1
Honestly, the fact that I'm actually 3D scanning again blows my mind.
He got really close, but where he differs, it's really profound. The main issue with his rework are the temple openings - he probably didn't account for the uneven shrinkage of the M1
Honestly, the fact that I'm actually 3D scanning again blows my mind.
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