T1 and T2 Endoskeleton Research Thread

Started on the T2/LFS Hand Pistons. The top rod cut-out was a bit of a PITA.

Hand-Pistons-01.jpg
 
Anyone have the correct T1 style versions. Adam Savage mention in the Propstore video that they were radio control airplane parts. Would love to get some real measurements from those.

2022-07-21-24 - Entertainment Memorabilia Live Auction - Lot 433 - T1 - Endoskeleton Arm - Met...jpg
 
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The Japanese site tStudio is very slow to load and is already known to many here, but here because it is so well done, everything is in an overview of the skull. The only thing that is missing is the difference between the shape of t2 and t1 because they are shaped slightly differently, although I'm not sure about that either...

 
I outlined in red what doesn't match Gizmo's skull. In green, what does match. Based on the rear port cover, I'm almost 100% sure that Beagle Bill had a skull like this in the photos!
 

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Gizmo, have you noticed that your skull and that skull from Japan are made from the same mold?
Yes I’ve seen that. I need to send T-Studio a message. I’m friends with him on Facebook I’m just not sure of the language barrier. I know he flew to America to find out where his skull came from.

I’ve been really busy this week but I’ll post some stuff on the weekend. :)
 
Yeah, there are a few of these floating around. I've seen two (maybe 3) of them all finished up and with that rear port. ghostman posted some pictures of one. HopeOfTheFuture on here owns one with that same rear port, but it has chromed teeth. And then gizmo owns an unfinished casting and posted pictures of the T-Studio unfinished one where alterations were made to it to clean up the grooves, which is a damn shame. There was one on LFS's Terminator page before it shut down... unsure if it was one of the finished ones mentioned here.
 
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I continue to redesign my skull. This time, I decided to change the way the jaw attaches to the skull. In the M1 skull and its copies, if you draw a straight line between the outer jaw attachment holes, you can see that they don't align with the axis, meaning we lose the ability to attach the jaw to the skull with screws (like in the T1). So, I will change the shape and add what's missing. Aluminum plates will be glued into the skull, to which the jaw will be screwed from the outside, allowing it to open 30 degrees. To create the shape I need, I took a complicated path. I filled the jaw's indentations with plasticine, gave it the desired shape, and then took a silicone mold to pour polyurethane later. I've already done one side, but I forgot to take a photo. It turned out great.
And yes, I still haven't finished the degassing chamber, so there are so many bubbles.
 

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Here, I took a photo of how it looks. There are some small height differences, but I will still fix some defects with putty and sanding, so it's not a big deal. But now everything is level, parallel, and concentric.
 

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Alongside working on my skull's jaw, I continue to look at others' works, and I've taken a closer look at the resin kit from Future Tech Collectibles. The surface is very clean and smooth, which is cool, but the fact that all the sharp edges are smoothed out is disappointing. Creating sharp edges is quite a tedious task, and ideally, sharp edges should be on the master model so that they also appear on all castings. This approach would be ideal since almost all the edges of the original T1 are very sharp, and if that's not needed, there's always sandpaper to remove corners, which is easier than creating them on a resin casting.
 

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An important question for those who have already assembled the M1 or simply know the answer: how can you expand the seams on a model made of soft PVC so that the lines are perfectly clean? It's not possible to cut them with a drill because the material wraps around it and pushes it aside, resulting in a jagged edge. Cutting with a sharp knife is also difficult because there's a high chance the knife will veer off course. I've tried planing, which works okay but takes a long time. How do professionals do it?
 

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I doubt you can do that with vinyl. It just doesn't cut that way or sand well. Maybe very fine sandpaper over a long period of time can do it, but anything rough and you'll just gonk the surface.

Another thing regarding gizmo's and those other similar skulls is that the front cover is exact to the original sculpt. At first I thought it was like the standard M1/T2:3D style, but it is smaller and doesn't have the small point towards the front. And that's how the sculpt was. So if these retain the original sculpt look, then the production look to the front cover happened later.

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I doubt you can do that with vinyl. It just doesn't cut that way or sand well. Maybe very fine sandpaper over a long period of time can do it, but anything rough and you'll just gonk the surface.

Another thing regarding gizmo's and those other similar skulls is that the front cover is exact to the original sculpt. At first I thought it was like the standard M1/T2:3D style, but it is smaller and doesn't have the small point towards the front. And that's how the sculpt was. So if these retain the original sculpt look, then the production look to the front cover happened later.

View attachment 1800394View attachment 1800395
In general, this vinyl sands quite well with sandpaper, making it easy to achieve a smooth surface.

Are you talking about this cover?
 

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