Studio Half Scale TOS Enterprise Scratch build

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Thanks Guys. For me I'm hoping to get beyond the event horizon of boring. With any luck I'll have the whole thing pointed up by tomorrow and I can move on to the bridge structure, impulse engines and other details. Scribing the window locations. Thanks for all the kind words and most importantly the encouraging support!

Steve
 
How about some more filling and sanding? Well you're going to see plenty and I look like I've been in a sand storm. But the bottom of the saucer is coming along nicely. Got the raw fiber glass sanded down and those thick rubber sanding blocks are a must! They give you the power to sand it down quickly without a visit to the hospital. They are flat on one side and round on the other. Life saving.

Got a nice coat of Evercoat on the surface and rough sanded it down. That powered stuff you see is the dust I have blasted off yet. But you can see it's shaping up. I've used 33 dollars of Evercoat on this side but if I had used Bondo my arm would be falling off by now.

More later on. I'm hoping to get it nearly all pointed up tonight.

We'll see...:)

Steve

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Did a second pass with the finishing glaze and sanded again. Filled the smaller stuff and scratches with spot putty.

Tomorrow I'll sand it all smooth and primer it. The rest of the day will be spent preening and making the sharp saucer edge even.

Next? Let build the bridge.

More tomorrow,

Steve

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Lots of work. Sanding and resanding can a morale killer, but we're here to cheer you on!

I'm jumping ahead a little, but I've been wondering how you're going to make copies of the saucer parts when you complete the master. Are you thinking vacuum forming or casting?
 
Lucky for me my wife loves Star Trek like and an Pizza!! ;) So no worries here.
And thank you kindly for the cheering on. You can't imagine how much it helps me.

I've talked about it before but that was a few pages back. The molds will all be GI 1000 silicone RTV and the mother molds that support the RTV, glass epoxy. I will be making the hulls out of epoxy and glass. All molds will be open faced. All in two parts. The builder will have to join the halves together after the lights have been put in. All the smaller parts, bridge, impulse engine, coolers, will Alumilite resin. Domes and warp engine domes vacuum form. This will be very similar to the Custom Replicas TOS model in construction.

This is half the reason I started this project. I wanted to get their model but missed the boat as they are no longer available. But building your own from scratch for me is half the fun and pleasure.

Steve
 
Sorry if you mentioned it before. I should have caught that since I've been following this from the start.

This is going to be so awesome and already is and it's still early! I never used to like this ship to be honest, but then I saw many builds of it and then I started to gain interest and then it became an obsession. I'm glad you're building this and making it available.
 
Thanks Sith I like big models. Not that I don't like all models but personal preference is for the large. If this all goes well I plan a 1/4 scale Galileo Shuttle craft. ;)

Steve
 
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Ok, as interested in this thread as I am; am I to understanding that you are going to build a quarter scale Galileo from the full size set piece or from the studio miniature? I built a SS Galileo a few years ago and not a day goes by that I don't look at it and thank God I did it but to have a bigger one would be unbelievable!!!!!! :)

As I say in every post here; this is looking great Steve!
 
Steve, you are my new hero. This is absolutely outstanding.

It's also educational as hell for a relative beginner in the "big boy" modeling world such as I. Many thanks for taking the time to tell us (and show us) how you do this.
 
Ah...the full sized set but I may go a bit smaller as that would work out to nearly 7 feet.

Today I worked the top and bottom of the saucer over and over again. Then I pointed up the sharp edge using painters tape and finishing glaze. Then flat sand the top of the edge and the rim. Pointed it up just like magic.

A bit more tomorrow smoothing and it's good to go. One last heavy coat of primer and a bit of wet sanding and she's ready to scribe.

Here's some pictures of the steps I took today. Needless to say I'm a bit ready to move on from the dust pit of hell!

Steve

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Steve, you are my new hero. This is absolutely outstanding.

It's also educational as hell for a relative beginner in the "big boy" modeling world such as I. Many thanks for taking the time to tell us (and show us) how you do this.


I can't thank you enough.

The reason I share my craft is so talented people will make use of this stuff and do killer projects they've always dreamed of. That's a real turn on for me. I learned this stuff by doing the same. And I've modified and come up with some of my own techniques as a result. But I simply wouldn't be able to do this stuff it it weren't for masters I learned it from.

So make use of it. I can't wait to see what you all come up with.

Steve
 
Thanks! Well I'm just about to call it. I'm going around with calibers now and straight edges checking it and driving myself insane! Looks perfect and I find something a little uneven. Can't have that! Truth is I'm the only that can see it. If you don't use a CNC machine they will always be a bit off. The original 11 footer certainly is. I guess you can call that real authenticity then. :rolleyes

Starting on the bridge section. More on that soon.

Steve
 
Steve, what are you using for primer, and how are you applying it? And "pointing up", is that a bodyman's term I missed? Is that referring to building up the sharp edges?
 
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