star-art
Sr Member
This is my second studio-scale Galactica project build from the patterns I created while designing the model for Custom Replicas (currently on display at the Science Fiction Museum in Seattle, Washington, USA). This is an (authorized) commission for a third party. This actually means I will have built 3 studio-scale battlestars (not including mockups and prototype structures).
This build started with the head section. Before anything could be done, however, a lot of prep work was required. I began by making numerous modifications to the design of the structure. The original build was so complex, it took a couple months to complete just that one section. The number of parts was staggering (over 400 numbered parts, not including duplicates). To make things easier this time, I wanted to streamline it as much as possible.
Special Jigs/Tooling
As an aid in assembling the parts as precisely as possible, I developed a special jig made of machined aluminum. This provided a perfectly level work surface with multiple slots to facilitate bolting parts to the table. Unfortunately, the “T-slots” were too small for standard 5/16 threaded T-slot bolts. Thus, I had to fashion my own hardware using 1/4-20 threaded set screws (i.e. headless bolts) in various lengths plus T-nuts to accomplish the same functionality. The final table was 15 inches deep by 30 inches wide. It includes four leveling feet at the corners. Overall, it works brilliantly.
Workshop Comfort
I spent many, many hours in the shop working on the last CR build. Two of the most important shop concerns are having good lighting and adequate ventilation. To provide a bright enough work area, I had installed several shop-type fluorescent light fixtures overhead. Because the ceiling in my garage/shop at the time was a standard 8 ft in height, hanging these fixtures meant the bulbs were only about a foot or so from my head. It turns out fluorescent lights emit a LOT of UV radiation. In fact, they crank out large amounts of damaging UV-B rays that can cause DNA damage and skin cancer. And, I had no less than twelve 4-foot T12 tubes only about a foot over my head. As a result, I was getting sunburned from working in my shop -- even in the middle of Winter!
Once I figured out what was happening, I located UV sleeve filters to fit over all the fluorescent tubes. These were not cheap, but they seemed to work great and I stopped getting sunburned from working in the shop. These filters do reduce light output somewhat, but they also provide color correction to turn cold fluorescent tubes into something resembling natural sunlight. In addition, they also help reduce eye strain. Overall, this was a very worthwhile investment. What interesting problems we studio-scale builders have to overcome?! LOL
Ventilated Work Area
The biggest challenge I had to deal with is the fact I would be gluing acrylic and styrene parts for hours each day using toxic solvents. Many modelers routinely use these chemicals without being concerned about how it might affect their health. I had been using WeldOn solvents for gluing acrylic for years. In fact, I had even used this stuff indoors which, as it turns out, was a big mistake. The only safe way to work with these chemicals is outdoors. Even then, special protection is recommended. The manufacturer actually states that a regular paint/chemical respirator will not protect you. An air-supplied respirator is actually required. These are not cheap.
One solution I had in mind was fashioning some sort of ventilated work booth in a corner of the shop. I searched and searched online but the only examples I could find were custom built for industrial/factory settings. These setups cost a fortune. In the end, it took a LOT of research to come up with a DIY setup that I could use in my small shop. But, after a lot of time and effort, I finally put together something that worked.
Attachments:
This build started with the head section. Before anything could be done, however, a lot of prep work was required. I began by making numerous modifications to the design of the structure. The original build was so complex, it took a couple months to complete just that one section. The number of parts was staggering (over 400 numbered parts, not including duplicates). To make things easier this time, I wanted to streamline it as much as possible.
Special Jigs/Tooling
As an aid in assembling the parts as precisely as possible, I developed a special jig made of machined aluminum. This provided a perfectly level work surface with multiple slots to facilitate bolting parts to the table. Unfortunately, the “T-slots” were too small for standard 5/16 threaded T-slot bolts. Thus, I had to fashion my own hardware using 1/4-20 threaded set screws (i.e. headless bolts) in various lengths plus T-nuts to accomplish the same functionality. The final table was 15 inches deep by 30 inches wide. It includes four leveling feet at the corners. Overall, it works brilliantly.
Workshop Comfort
I spent many, many hours in the shop working on the last CR build. Two of the most important shop concerns are having good lighting and adequate ventilation. To provide a bright enough work area, I had installed several shop-type fluorescent light fixtures overhead. Because the ceiling in my garage/shop at the time was a standard 8 ft in height, hanging these fixtures meant the bulbs were only about a foot or so from my head. It turns out fluorescent lights emit a LOT of UV radiation. In fact, they crank out large amounts of damaging UV-B rays that can cause DNA damage and skin cancer. And, I had no less than twelve 4-foot T12 tubes only about a foot over my head. As a result, I was getting sunburned from working in my shop -- even in the middle of Winter!
Once I figured out what was happening, I located UV sleeve filters to fit over all the fluorescent tubes. These were not cheap, but they seemed to work great and I stopped getting sunburned from working in the shop. These filters do reduce light output somewhat, but they also provide color correction to turn cold fluorescent tubes into something resembling natural sunlight. In addition, they also help reduce eye strain. Overall, this was a very worthwhile investment. What interesting problems we studio-scale builders have to overcome?! LOL
Ventilated Work Area
The biggest challenge I had to deal with is the fact I would be gluing acrylic and styrene parts for hours each day using toxic solvents. Many modelers routinely use these chemicals without being concerned about how it might affect their health. I had been using WeldOn solvents for gluing acrylic for years. In fact, I had even used this stuff indoors which, as it turns out, was a big mistake. The only safe way to work with these chemicals is outdoors. Even then, special protection is recommended. The manufacturer actually states that a regular paint/chemical respirator will not protect you. An air-supplied respirator is actually required. These are not cheap.
One solution I had in mind was fashioning some sort of ventilated work booth in a corner of the shop. I searched and searched online but the only examples I could find were custom built for industrial/factory settings. These setups cost a fortune. In the end, it took a LOT of research to come up with a DIY setup that I could use in my small shop. But, after a lot of time and effort, I finally put together something that worked.
Attachments:
