Star wars - diorama / display / stand - foam core tips req - wip

[Master Blaster]

Bello guys!

I'm building this mid-large thing, I don't know how to call it.. diorama? display? stand?
To show my 18" Star Wars "bad guys", 4 of them (Darth Vader, Darth Maul, Boba Fett and a Stormtrooper) customized figures (Darth Vader is not done yet, I've just replaced his right hand with Boba's hand, because I will make him holding a Lightsaber but his original hand is not open to fit it)

Well, This thing design is a mix of several things I selected like shown bellow:
(if you see my other threads you know already I do not intend to create perfect movie accurate things, but I use to select what I like most and what I think will looks better, AND what with my skills I can do )

So, forgive me for any discrepancy.. like using the Death Star windows together with a destroyer floor mixed with death star corridor lights and shinny floor, plus my own "creations" :facepalm... yes.. I know... WTF? hahaha!

The image I've selected as a backdrop also shows the death star.. :rolleyes sooooo... my own mad mind... for my own version crazy things...:lol

Backdrop: I will print it in a large scale.


Samples for design:


Sooooo, This is what I started a few days ago.


And, This where I'm now:

So far, so good.. I think... :confused
There are a lot of work to be done yet, more details, greebles, lights.. painting... but I'm happy

Well, not tooo happy, I have never ever worked with foam Core before... As you can see, I did a few mistakes cutting and also the handling of it resulted in a lot of wrinkles like this:


Does anyone have any tip how to fix both the cutting mess and the wrinkles?
Will the wrinkles disappear with a coat of primer? which primer will give best results with foam core? (I have already Tamiya Fine Primer)
Will I need to use some putty? which one will do work better?

So lots of questions, hope one of you masters will help me on this.

Also, hope you like this thing, any comments suggestions criticisms are very welcome.

Looking forward to hearing from you guys,

Thanks for looking,
MB.

 

[DaveG]

Nice concept for a display! As you're discovering, Foam core can be a little fussy to work with, especially when you cut it into thin sections! DO NOT use Tamiya primer on it. The solvents in the primer will dissolve and eat away at any exposed foam edges. The same holds true for putties.

Priming and painting foam core can be a bit tricky. Water based paints can cause the foam core to warp. The best thing to do is try some tests on scrap material first.

Good luck.

 

[Master Blaster]

OMG! Thanks Man! I was about to spray some Tamiya primer on it.

Could I protect the foam with some clear cote? maybe Klear?
I will test as you said anyway.

Thanks!
MB.

Nice concept for a display! As you're discovering, Foam core can be a little fussy to work with, especially when you cut it into thin sections! DO NOT use Tamiya primer on it. The solvents in the primer will dissolve and eat away at any exposed foam edges. The same holds true for putties.
Priming and painting foam core can be a bit tricky. Water based paints can cause the foam core to warp. The best thing to do is try some tests on scrap material first.
Good luck.

 

[DaveG]

I doubt that would prevent the solvents from getting to the foam but try on some scrap. As you will find out, painting foam core can be a PITA!

 

[darth_myeek]

If you haven't, Google: Foamboard Rabbet Cutter, 90-Degree Foam Core Knife. It's a tool which strips enough material from the edge to allow two pieces of foam core to join at clean 90-degree angles.
Clean meaning no exposed foam edge.

 

[Master Blaster]

Thanks mate, yes I know foam core cutting tools, but I did not want to invest €50 or so in tools which probably I would never use again.
Also the cuts I've made are good.. I did cut all of them freehand using a carpet knife and a Xacto knife. Apart from those straight cuts (windows).... I was drunk and missed the guide lines...loool... REAL proof "do not drink and drive!!"

You see, in my pics those joints "exposed" were intentionally left that way... creating the right effect just like my "sample for design pics"... I thought that was an EASY way to sand, primer, smooth and paint them... now I got this **** trouble in my hands.. hahahaha!

Any Idea how to fix it without cut all over again please?

If you haven't, Google: Foamboard Rabbet Cutter, 90-Degree Foam Core Knife. It's a tool which strips enough material from the edge to allow two pieces of foam core to join at clean 90-degree angles.
Clean meaning no exposed foam edge.

 

[mcusanelli]

It really helps if you use the sharpest knives possible for cutting it, i would recommend scalpel blades, way better than x-acto's . You can seal the foam edges with gesso, or, glue a strip of 110 lb cardstock to it, or some thin styrene.

 

[Master Blaster]

Hi Guys, I really appreciate your help. but please.. I do not need tips on how to cut the boards.. but how to fix the cuts that are not straight and MAINLY how to fix the wrinkles I got in my pieces.

I did a lot of research tonight (5.11am now) and I think I came up with solutions on how to prime.. and how to putty/filler foam core.
I will test them all tomorrow and get back to you guys.

 

[TazMan2000]

Puttying paper foam core may leave a problem worse than the wrinkles. Inherently the paper absorbs paint and ink. Wrinkles can be hidden by strategic figure placement. Have you thought about using styrene to make future displays? Styrene lasts forever, but foam core tends to absorb moisture and warps over time.

TazMan2000

 

[Master Blaster]

UPDATE 1
Hi all.
I've been busy with business... so not much time for hobby.. what sucks!!.. ha!


As promised I've tested a few combinations for sealing/priming the foam core following suggestion of our fellas here.


Also I did some more research myself, just to discover that the moisture/chemicals absorption on the paper layer is the big trouble (well pointed @DaveG and tazman2000) ...
So, I've came up with the crazy :wackoidea to make it water resistant by spraying PCB Lacquer to give the foam core a good seal for filling/putting priming and painting...
Well the good news is.... YES! the PCB lacquer worked more than well on the spare pieces I've tested... I've tested Tamiya primer over it (paper layer and exposed foam) and Nothing abnormal happened... also just as test.. I left many drops of water over a piece of board(sealed with PCB lacquer) overnight .. you know what?.. nothing... the thing turned out to be WATER PROOF HAHA!
So, last night (5.40am now :sleep) I've sprayed all upper part of the display with the PCB Lacquer and now I'm waiting it to cure overnight.. but I did a peak a few times along the night and it seams to be very good indeed.. no deformations... later in the afternoon if everything still alright.. I will start priming it... luckily/hopefully Saturday start shadings and painting
And by the end of the weekend, lighting and finishing off.


So, Once again guys! a BIG THANK YOU for the tips... a special to DaveG who saved me to ruin my hard work to put this piece together!
@mcusanelli Your tip of sealing with gesso is true as well. Thanks!


If you guys are curious about sealing with PCB lacquer.. just ask ok?


And here is the "thing" with some fixes (white patches) some details added and with PCB Lacquer curing/drying...ready to masking and a layer of primer.

Next updated soon.


Good morning,
MB.

 

[bwize]

That is looking awesome. Can't wait to see it all painted up and finished.

 

[yuumi2891103]

I always use a can of cheap hair spray.
Before you apply putty or primer, spray hairspray all over the surface of the foam core once or twice.
It works.

Looking forward to see your progress.

katsu

 

[Master Blaster]

UPDATE #2

Hi,

@bwize
Thanks man! I could not start painting today but will do along this week (I hope)... keep tuned

@yuumi2891103
I use to use hairspray to create chipping effect.. I did not know to use it to seal.. great tip! Thanks man!

So....
I've used a generic halfords filler and then a generic halfords primer... and I did some light sanding in some areas.... the results looks good IMO.

I'm thinking to do the shadings (dark gray) and then another light coat with the same primer (light gray), a little bit of smoothing and a coat of semi gloss. What you guys think about it??? good or bad idea?
This primer gray looks very similar with this photo???



So here is the thing now! more coming over the week.
Thanks all.



MB

 

[Master Blaster]

UPDATE #3

Sorry guys.. its taking more time than I want.. I'm constantly battling my depression... some times I have no mood for to do anything... even for having some fun building things.
So.. slow progress.. but.. good news, I have a few days off work.. I hope get it done some time soon.

Again thanks for all comments!

Pre-shading
Painted the floor and a layer of black gloss self-adhesive film.


Another coat of light gray paint.
Added the windows "glasses"
Added a few details and painted them.. I did not like the colours.. just did not match with the whole thing... painted again in dark gray it's drying already.. new photos tomorrow.


Added lights under the floor grills. (sorry bad photo shot)


To do list:
Lights
Backdrop printed out.

Hope you like.
Thanks for looking.

MB.

 

[rbeach84]

Looking good, MB! Thanks for sharing your project here...

Regards, Robert

 

[Badgersbunk]

It's coming along nicely. What did you use for the "glass"

 

[IzzyMel]

Love it. It's something I would love to do for my Sideshow Figures.

 

[Master Blaster]

Thanks guys, very appreciated!

@Badgersbunk
The "glass" is a 0.5mm Acetate sheet (transparent bluish).


The new details colours. looks a bit better now.. still, I'm not sure If I keep the yellow and red pipes... or put them gray as well, opinions??


More coming soon.

Thanks again all.
MB.