Star Trek USS Centaur studio scale

Barnstormer

Well-Known Member
Looking great! Amazing detective work on the last donor kits - I just got in my F-15, one more to go and then I just need the overtime to wind down at work so I can work on it!
 

stevielewis

Well-Known Member
Thank you, Barnstormer. I do hope you can find some time in the near future to work on your model of the Centaur. I'm hoping for some warm, dry weather, to come this way so I can finally do some painting of my model. Looking forward to viewing your build!
 

Barnstormer

Well-Known Member
I'll have some work to do removing the out-of-date/inaccurate parts cleanly, and I know I was still working on the seams of the rollbar-pod - I'll have to revisit that now that we have a better understanding of how that mounts to the saucer to make sure that it's still viable.
 

stevielewis

Well-Known Member
When it comes to mounting the saucer onto the rollbar/weapons pod, I did basically what Adam did with the original, I kept cutting away the back of the saucer under the impulse engines to fit the shape of the weapons pod, and cut down the sides of the weapons pod to fit the area under the impulse engines. The front of the weapons pod needs to be sanded flat until it is level with the top of the photon torpedo launchers. Should you do this, you will notice that the photon torpedos will launch right into the bottom of the saucer hull. That is how the filming model is set up. Adam told me that he made the second version of the Centaur so that the photon torpedos did not have that issue. So depending on how you want your build to look, plan ahead before doing the modifications to the saucer hull and weapons pod. I wanted my build to look like the filming model, so that is how I built mine.
 

stevielewis

Well-Known Member
Since my last post I got some model putty and filled a few gaps that needed covering. The following photos show where I filled those gaps. One place, between the impulse engines, I used some scrap plastic to fill in where on the studio model they used putty. That is my one main deviation from how the original build was done.
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stevielewis

Well-Known Member
You must have used a stronger solvent based glue than I did when adding parts. Most of the inaccurate parts on my build literally "popped off" using a standard modelling blade or a chisel blade. Good luck!
 

137th Gebirg

Well-Known Member
This is beautiful! One of the best and most accurate builds of the original "Buckner" configuration I've ever seen. Can't wait to see the final product.
 

stevielewis

Well-Known Member
Thank you very much, Gebirg. Believe it or not, I am building a second original "Buckner" Centaur. As accurate as the first build was, this second build is going to be even more accurate. I know it sounds weird to build another Centaur, but I do like the look of the ship. :D
 

137th Gebirg

Well-Known Member
I feel ya on that. One of my favorite DS9 kit Ashe dresses designs too. Eventually I would like to make one exactly like this and I definitely plan on using this thread as a primary resource. I have some of the kits required. Just need an original AMT Reliant and an old K'Tinga, but I prefer to live vicariously through yours right now because it is very much dead-on to the original. :)

Are you going to paint it in the high-saturation colors that the original was done or something a little more subdued?
 

stevielewis

Well-Known Member
I'm going to see if I can find those high-saturation colors as well as the dark wash that appears to have been done to mute the colors some. If you need help with finding the kits used, let me know. I'll get you a list of them.
 

stevielewis

Well-Known Member
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Small update...did some painting on the greeblies to make them pretty much the same color. Used Model Masters Camouflage Grey FS 36622. After some minor gap filling, will be painting a full basecoat to bring this build up to speed before adding the colors seen on the studio build.
 
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