Spiderman web shooter: A collaborative project.
- Thread starter epilepticsquirl
- Start date
The Dark Lord
New Member
If you go to the thread in the junkyard there is a link for a right-hand face and a left-hand face
xl97
Master Member
The Dark Lord is correct..
if you go tot he JY thread.. there is a link to the parts in the Shapeways store..
it will have all parts.. and if you look there is a Shooter face left.. and Shooter face right.
on a side note... we have audio!! and things are ported to a breadboard version of the 'real deal'..
the audio is kinda 'static-ee'.. and not very loud.. but I guess its a trade off for the 'space' we have to work with.. unless maybe someone wants to edit the models? or we design from scratch?
I'll see if I can grab a quick demo.. maybe talk to ES about how he wants to 'shape this up' in the final stages?
thanks guys!
if you go tot he JY thread.. there is a link to the parts in the Shapeways store..
it will have all parts.. and if you look there is a Shooter face left.. and Shooter face right.
on a side note... we have audio!! and things are ported to a breadboard version of the 'real deal'..
the audio is kinda 'static-ee'.. and not very loud.. but I guess its a trade off for the 'space' we have to work with.. unless maybe someone wants to edit the models? or we design from scratch?
I'll see if I can grab a quick demo.. maybe talk to ES about how he wants to 'shape this up' in the final stages?
thanks guys!
Jaf0297
New Member
Thanks I will check them out.If you go to the thread in the junkyard there is a link for a right-hand face and a left-hand face
frandraskovic
New Member
hi guys,i am from croatia and i would like to help you,and i think that i can help you with web,i design something what is traction that pushes that "network" out ... But I have a little problem and I can solve it that what I just said about the firing of the network it is more disabling "enemy" haha, so I included the compressor I pressed glue behold wonders ahah network is all out but I would be more interested to see how he and the Council on the network, how the network can handle čovijekovu weight ... Thanks in advance! and if I need someone to let me write [email to this address> draskovicfran@gmail.com: Kul
but I would be more interested to see how he and the Council on the network, how the network can handle čovijekovu weight ... Thanks in advance! and if I need someone to let me write [email to this address> draskovicfran@gmail.com: Kul
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xl97
Master Member
just making a list/notes here.. (being the 'collaborative' project and all)
Things/components needed for final electronics:
1.) microSD card (under 2GB I believe.. or formatted for FAT)
2.) speaker (small, hobby speaker of your choice and what you can fit & where) I going to be testing with a cell phone speaker at first a few more of bigger size after that.. (problem here is resonance chamber.. there is none.. no speaker sounds good/loud without it.. and with this already a 'crippled' audio output.. it'll be up the end user to work that out I guess.. I'll be trying to work the flat speaker into the leather strap myself.. or is applicable.. under the bottom piece still.. but that will KILL any audio from escaping!)
There is (as of now) only 1 switch (2 switch pads) that will be available.. this will trigger the 'thwip..thwip' sounds..
** switch choice is up to end user. you want to try and hide a 'reed' switch under the bottom (not certain on room, if any, available there after battery..etc)..
or solder a FPC (flexi printed circuit) to the pads and run it to your palm..(up to you)
** battery +/- pads (not more than +5v can be given.. try to use a +3.3v coin cell as optimal)
** speaker pads, where you solder you speaker of choice to.
PCB color?
Im thinking RED.. only because of spiderman..and because the main chip is 'black' and it will 'pop' (contrast) better on the red pcb?
I dont think green will work... white would be 'cool'.. but probably be too 'light/bright' looking under the bingo chip then..
yellow? blue?
black will 'drown' out the main chip..
What is general stance/poll on the 'lines' that come off of each pin from the MAIN chip?
something we are also looking to integrate? (will just be white silkscreen on top of the PCB)..
now that I have the hardware mirrored on a breadboard, and the audio..etc..etc working.
time to workout the firmware.. and nail down any 'options/effects' we want to add.
1.) press 'switch/trigger'...and:
a.) red leds on 'top' under bingo chip light up (there are only 3 there)
b.) 'thwip' sound effect is played
----rinse, repeated..
2.) after 'x' amount of shots fired.. the green leds on the top (counter leds) will go dim.
a.) say after every 5 or 10 shots.. '1' green led will go dim.. working its way down the led strip/counter.. until the last leds is lit.. when the 'max shots' fired is reached.. the last green led will go dim.
3.) After all shots are used up.. pressing the trigger will play an 'empty' sound..
4.) Im thinking that when cartridge is "EMPTY'.. holding down the trigger/switch for a few seconds will 're-load' the cartridges up again.. starting tings all over?
Hopefully this weekend.. I can start working on finalizing the 'code'..
Things/components needed for final electronics:
1.) microSD card (under 2GB I believe.. or formatted for FAT)
2.) speaker (small, hobby speaker of your choice and what you can fit & where) I going to be testing with a cell phone speaker at first a few more of bigger size after that.. (problem here is resonance chamber.. there is none.. no speaker sounds good/loud without it.. and with this already a 'crippled' audio output.. it'll be up the end user to work that out I guess.. I'll be trying to work the flat speaker into the leather strap myself.. or is applicable.. under the bottom piece still.. but that will KILL any audio from escaping!)
There is (as of now) only 1 switch (2 switch pads) that will be available.. this will trigger the 'thwip..thwip' sounds..
** switch choice is up to end user. you want to try and hide a 'reed' switch under the bottom (not certain on room, if any, available there after battery..etc)..
or solder a FPC (flexi printed circuit) to the pads and run it to your palm..(up to you)
** battery +/- pads (not more than +5v can be given.. try to use a +3.3v coin cell as optimal)
** speaker pads, where you solder you speaker of choice to.
PCB color?
Im thinking RED.. only because of spiderman..and because the main chip is 'black' and it will 'pop' (contrast) better on the red pcb?
I dont think green will work... white would be 'cool'.. but probably be too 'light/bright' looking under the bingo chip then..
yellow? blue?
black will 'drown' out the main chip..
What is general stance/poll on the 'lines' that come off of each pin from the MAIN chip?
something we are also looking to integrate? (will just be white silkscreen on top of the PCB)..
now that I have the hardware mirrored on a breadboard, and the audio..etc..etc working.
time to workout the firmware.. and nail down any 'options/effects' we want to add.
1.) press 'switch/trigger'...and:
a.) red leds on 'top' under bingo chip light up (there are only 3 there)
b.) 'thwip' sound effect is played
----rinse, repeated..
2.) after 'x' amount of shots fired.. the green leds on the top (counter leds) will go dim.
a.) say after every 5 or 10 shots.. '1' green led will go dim.. working its way down the led strip/counter.. until the last leds is lit.. when the 'max shots' fired is reached.. the last green led will go dim.
3.) After all shots are used up.. pressing the trigger will play an 'empty' sound..
4.) Im thinking that when cartridge is "EMPTY'.. holding down the trigger/switch for a few seconds will 're-load' the cartridges up again.. starting tings all over?
Hopefully this weekend.. I can start working on finalizing the 'code'..
The Dark Lord
New Member
You need to find the thread for this in the Junkyard section of the forum, on the first page of that you'll see the links for all the parts you need.
xl97
Master Member
Hey guys...
just a quick update:
got a preliminary firmware done...
I'll take a video tonight (this is still on a breadboard, as I have not ordered PCB's yet of course)
top part does NOT have 4 red leds any more.. I had to cut it down to 3.. should still light up very bright/fine.. so no worries.
see if I can find & charge the vid camera tonight!
just a quick update:
got a preliminary firmware done...
I'll take a video tonight (this is still on a breadboard, as I have not ordered PCB's yet of course)
top part does NOT have 4 red leds any more.. I had to cut it down to 3..
should still light up very bright/fine.. so no worries.see if I can find & charge the vid camera tonight!
epilepticsquirl
Sr Member
That sounds great! Can't wait to see it :thumbsup
xl97
Master Member
I noticed 'we' (meaning not me! lol) need to find or edit the sound clips..
Im no audio engineer... and really have little to zero experience in audio work/editing..
but the beginning of the file has to be trimmed.. too much 'silence'..
when I press the button it it plays the file.. but the 'thwip' part is delayed a bit..
when I look at the file in Audacity.. and play it there and in WMP.. its the same thing.. and you can see the 'long' data/space in the beginning of the file too..
this was the one I ultimately went with:
Ultimate Spiderman Web twip 4 sound effect.mp3
(had to convert to .wav then to .afm)..
in the end though.. the euser can change these sound files to be whatever.. a chicken clucking.. a fart noise.. whatever you want.. LOL.
(just name the file the same name as on the SD card..and overwrite/replace it)
Im no audio engineer... and really have little to zero experience in audio work/editing..
but the beginning of the file has to be trimmed.. too much 'silence'..
when I press the button it it plays the file.. but the 'thwip' part is delayed a bit..
when I look at the file in Audacity.. and play it there and in WMP.. its the same thing.. and you can see the 'long' data/space in the beginning of the file too..
this was the one I ultimately went with:
Ultimate Spiderman Web twip 4 sound effect.mp3
(had to convert to .wav then to .afm)..
in the end though.. the euser can change these sound files to be whatever.. a chicken clucking.. a fart noise.. whatever you want.. LOL.
(just name the file the same name as on the SD card..and overwrite/replace it)
epilepticsquirl
Sr Member
ah that I can do! I'll try to tackle it later tonight.
xl97
Master Member
beautiful!,
thanks!..
also.. since In in the middle of code.. are we going for a simple:
1-press = 1 sound type of deal?
or we going for any 'semi-auto' feel? (ie: as fast as we press the button a 'thwip' sound will play?... or should it be a press the button.. 'FULL' 'thwip' sounds gets to play (all the way through).. and then we are 'available' to press/play again?
alternately.. I can work toward an automatic switch type effect to.. as long as the button is pressed down.. the sound will play over and over.. (not all the way through. it will begin and then be interrupted by another sound 'beginning' to play.. like an auto fire from machine gun or something..
thanks!..
also.. since In in the middle of code.. are we going for a simple:
1-press = 1 sound type of deal?
or we going for any 'semi-auto' feel? (ie: as fast as we press the button a 'thwip' sound will play?... or should it be a press the button.. 'FULL' 'thwip' sounds gets to play (all the way through).. and then we are 'available' to press/play again?
alternately.. I can work toward an automatic switch type effect to.. as long as the button is pressed down.. the sound will play over and over.. (not all the way through. it will begin and then be interrupted by another sound 'beginning' to play.. like an auto fire from machine gun or something..
xl97
Master Member
ok.. charged up the Flip video...
took a quick video of the current state: (which isnt much.. but its progress) LOL
TASM webshooter progressVid 1 - YouTube
I do NOT have the RED leds hook up in the demo yet. (I need to test if I can have PWM available to me.. even though the audio uses PWM on pin9 and uses alot of resources)
worse case scenario: the red leds dont 'fade' out.. just turn 'off'
green leds: current I only have it being a counter of '5' shots.. so each 'fire' it dims a bank (green led)..
Im hoping to add some parameters to a config file.. so the end user can define how much 'ammo count' they have in there shooter.. this will dynamically be broken up into 5 banks..
so lets say you choose '50' as your ammo count..
the firmware will divde this by 5 (banks/leds).. and you will get 10 'shots' per bank/led.. when you hit 1 .. 1 green led goes dim.. 20, 2- leds go dim..etc.. until 'done/empty.
left to do:
1. red led(s) (fade out)
2. dynamic ammo counter/bank separator
3. empty sound play back/check
4. re-load check/watch-dog
5. possible semi-auto and full-auto firing modes (defined by length of button press)
other notes:
looking like we'll need:
1.) 'thwip' sound file
2.) empty cartridge sound file
3.) re-load cartridge sound file
4.) (optional boot sound..played when prop is powered on)
* still need to decide on the PCB color? (Im going with red as of now? thts an extra $5.0.. just everyone knows up front)
* still need to decide on the 'white' lines on top..going from the chip pins? the zig-zag/diagonal lines going form main chip.... we want these or no?
* I tried to keep the top as clean as possible.. but with limited room, I needed to put the resistors for the red leds on top.. also on the top.. (they are very tiny,.. 0603 resistor)
(I can post the 'Eagle' PCB design pics for people to get a somewhat idea of the component layout if they want?...just say so)
other notes:
there will be a switch pads you solder YOUR SWITCH OF CHOICE TO.. if you want/have FPC switch(es).. great..... if not you can use whatever you want.
there will be speaker pads.. the bigger the speaker, the better in this application.. (but do NOT think you are getting good quality sound here!.. there is no low-pass filter.. no amp...etc.. it bare minimum to get this prop (with its limited space) any audio output...at least for me!) LOL.. pick the speaker that sounds best as well as fits into your prop application.
Im not sure who (if anyone) even wants/is interested in this electronics.... but I reading you can get better audio output with more components.. and breaking out another pin for use along with the original pin used for output...
I could break this pad out..and leave it there.. just in case any future hackers want to take a stab at improving the audio quality?
dont quit on me now guys! I like the motivation!.. keeps me going!..
thanks!
took a quick video of the current state: (which isnt much.. but its progress) LOL
TASM webshooter progressVid 1 - YouTube
I do NOT have the RED leds hook up in the demo yet. (I need to test if I can have PWM available to me.. even though the audio uses PWM on pin9 and uses alot of resources)
worse case scenario: the red leds dont 'fade' out.. just turn 'off'
green leds: current I only have it being a counter of '5' shots.. so each 'fire' it dims a bank (green led)..
Im hoping to add some parameters to a config file.. so the end user can define how much 'ammo count' they have in there shooter.. this will dynamically be broken up into 5 banks..
so lets say you choose '50' as your ammo count..
the firmware will divde this by 5 (banks/leds).. and you will get 10 'shots' per bank/led.. when you hit 1 .. 1 green led goes dim.. 20, 2- leds go dim..etc.. until 'done/empty.
left to do:
1. red led(s) (fade out)
2. dynamic ammo counter/bank separator
3. empty sound play back/check
4. re-load check/watch-dog
5. possible semi-auto and full-auto firing modes (defined by length of button press)
other notes:
looking like we'll need:
1.) 'thwip' sound file
2.) empty cartridge sound file
3.) re-load cartridge sound file
4.) (optional boot sound..played when prop is powered on)
* still need to decide on the PCB color? (Im going with red as of now? thts an extra $5.0.. just everyone knows up front)
* still need to decide on the 'white' lines on top..going from the chip pins? the zig-zag/diagonal lines going form main chip.... we want these or no?
* I tried to keep the top as clean as possible.. but with limited room, I needed to put the resistors for the red leds on top.. also on the top.. (they are very tiny,.. 0603 resistor)
(I can post the 'Eagle' PCB design pics for people to get a somewhat idea of the component layout if they want?...just say so)
other notes:
there will be a switch pads you solder YOUR SWITCH OF CHOICE TO.. if you want/have FPC switch(es).. great..... if not you can use whatever you want.
there will be speaker pads.. the bigger the speaker, the better in this application.. (but do NOT think you are getting good quality sound here!.. there is no low-pass filter.. no amp...etc.. it bare minimum to get this prop (with its limited space) any audio output...at least for me!) LOL.. pick the speaker that sounds best as well as fits into your prop application.
Im not sure who (if anyone) even wants/is interested in this electronics.... but I reading you can get better audio output with more components.. and breaking out another pin for use along with the original pin used for output...
I could break this pad out..and leave it there.. just in case any future hackers want to take a stab at improving the audio quality?
dont quit on me now guys! I like the motivation!.. keeps me going!..
thanks!
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