Sonic Screwdriver toy question

Risu

Master Member
OK, so I know more than one person has converted their CO toy screwdriver into a steampunk, or custom, or just fixed up shiny repaint of the original, so I'm posting a thread instead of PMing individuals. Also, somebody else who reads this might have some helpful info.

Now to get to the point. I'm repainting/modding my CO screwdriver to be more screen accurate and generally look less like a plastic toy. I'm not lucky enough to have access to a lathe of any kind, so there are no metal replacement pieces, just painting, etc. I got some clear acrylic tube to replace the plastic with the seam on it and have some questions about the toy itself and electronic components therein.

1. I want to replace the existing wires with yellow ones to be S4 accurate, but radioshack doesn't seem to carry yellow wires of any kind. Is there a site that is recommended for something like this, and what specific type of wire do I need? (Never really done any electronic work like this before, do I need a certain gauge, or will any do?)

2. I swapped out the LED in the sonic a long time ago, but left the speaker alone. Looking at it now, I know that I'll have to remove it both to change the wires and to get them through the tube, as the speaker won't fit through the hole. The thing is, it doesn't look like solder that's holding the wires to the speaker. How are they attached and what is the best way to remove them and attach the new wires?

3. When I split the emitter open to get at the electronics, the top section came apart into two halves and the ball joint type part stayed together. I then split that in half, but one half stayed attached to the emitter half. Are these pieces actually attached together in a permanent way, or should I risk applying a lot of pressure which could possibly crack the plastic to separate them? Have any of you ever had the same problem with these two pieces?

4. Last question is simply about masking for the paint job. The body of the sonic has the crackle handle and aluminum on each end. These pieces don't really come apart, I think they're all one solid piece of plastic. What would be the best way to mask these sections off to make them look like they are actually different pieces assembled together and not just like somebody wrapped painters tape around a rod and sprayed some paint on it?

Sorry for the lack of pictures, I hope I described it well enough, my camera is being difficult. Any help would be appreciated very much.
 
I'm going to jump in on this, as I intend to refurbish a couple of my screwdrivers.

What LED is used for the actually prop?

Risu: Could you not use some yellow heat shrink on the wire?

And @ 3: It does come off, it just seems to have been glued a little. Be careful not to snap the thing, but with a bit of extra pressure, it should come off.
 
I think it really depends on which one you grab off of the shelf. The first one I tried to take apart would not budge! I tried to get the "metal" parts off to modify, repaint, etc. I boiled, pried, everything, wound up having to saw the metal off! The second one I was expecting the same, went to cut it off and the metal popped right off!

Can't help with yellow wires, I usually get a "bundle" cable that has scores of wires in all colors, take the black and red, blue and green, yellow and yellow etc!

To paint it, I would just leave the crackle finish that the toy has molded in. Just repaint it as I suggested in my steampunk thread!

The neck would look much better with a clear tube instead of the CO plastic part.

Not too much help, I'm afraid, but hopefully a few useful suggestions.
 
Yea, I'm definitely going that way with the crackle paint finish, but I'm worried that the "aluminum" bits on either side are going to look really painted. The order I'll be painting that piece will probably be something like: prime the entire piece, mask ends, krylon semi-flat black the crackle part, mask the crackle part, chrome the ends, mask the ends, top coat of paint the crackle part, glow in the dark blue paint on the energy level bar, sealer, unmask. I'm also worried that peeling off the masking tape will leave a jagged line and rip some of the dried or drying paint off with it.

I picked up some yellow electrical tape at radioshack today. Mine has 4 wires instead of the accurate 2 for the prop anyways, so I figure why not just go all the way and make it one solid wire. The art had it as a glowing beam of some sort anyways, so it's one step closer. That also solves the speaker problem, as I can now just cut the wires, run them through the tube, and solder the wires back together and tape over the solder. I was really worried about getting the new wires to curl up properly to fit inside the toy again. If there's one thing I suck at it's getting things to fit in the packaging again after I open them.
 
Back
Top