Silver Rubb N' Buff...rubbing off, solutions?

[dropshipbob]

I've used the silver Rubb N' Buff on a few prop blades and the instructions say it will dry within a few seconds. Every time I handle anything coated with this stuff, a little of it rubbs off on my hands, is there something I'm doing wrong? I don't apply it thick, and I give it a good buffing with a cloth to remove excess material.
Is there more too it?

 

[OdiWan72]

I´m having the same problem with this stuff

Markus

 

[ortiz34]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OdiWan72 @ Mar 6 2007, 12:35 PM) [snapback]1433013[/snapback]</div>

I´m having the same problem with this stuff

Markus
[/b]

I think they say you need to spray a clear matte finish over it so it doesnt come off.
The only issue is then ya cant touch up the paint anymore since its 'sealed'.

 

[SethB6025]

I'm having the same issue, I haven't tried a sealer yet though. Anyone have a brand suggestion before we all start spraying?

 

[masterjedi322]

I thought Rubb-N-Buff was an acrylic, so you should probably seal it with an acrylic, like Future Floor Wax or something.

sean

 

[Gigatron]

You can seal it with Future Floor wax or automotive clear coat.

But I also found that if you really buff the daylights out of it, the heat from the friction causes it to seal itself and it will stop leeching off on your hands. But it takes a lot of buffing. Use a clean, lint free cotton cloth (t-shirts work well for this) and just keep buffing and turning the cloth over.

-Fred

 

[Talisen]

I've used krylon clears as well, but then go back over certain parts with the RnB to bring back some of the luster.

 

[Rylo]

You really need to "buff" it as the name suggests.

I love Rub-N-Buff but you have to put a little muscle behind it. I've finished some rather large pieces with no trouble at all... Works great for that 'aged down' faux metal finish.

The pieces seen below were done with RNB. The Destroyer shells were done with regular silver over a flat black base and Bubo's finish is nothing but silver and gold RNB over black.

NOTE: Most clears will instantly dull the finish (turning it gray) if you try and seal RNB. I have used Krylon tripple glaze on an RNB finish and had decent results but I was going for a really wet look and just 'misted' on several light junk-coats allowing lots of dry time before hitting it heavy.

I've also ruined a few jobs trying this, too. I advise buffing the job as hard as you can and you should be fine. Like anything, It just takes a little time to get the hang of working with the stuff.

- Rylo

 

[foxbatkllr]

Do not clear coat RNB... It will dull it significantly. You really need to buff it hard. The more you buff it, the more it seals it. I have had somethings still rub off a little bit, but eventually it seals after a week if that happens.

I have heard of using future floor wax to clear coat RNB, however I also hear the future floor wax is susceptible to water.

 

[Talisen]

Future can't be removed with water (not by itself) it takes ammonia to remove it (so windex window cleaner and the like will do it)

 

[dropshipbob]

Thanks for the info everyone, I too heard that you shouldn't seal it. I guess I'll get back to buffing it more.

 

[propstuf]

I second the "Krylon clear" suggestion. You can improve your results if, once the Krylon is good and dry - which doesn't take too long - you buff the heck out of THAT with a good automotive polish / scratch remover. It'll bring the "shine" back up on the piece, but will ensure that the R-n-B stays "sealed." In my experience, wax alone tends to wear off with handling, and you're back to square one. Good luck.

 

[The Stig]

You can coat it, but it'll look like plastic from up close.
Handling can be a problem though since it takes, literally about a month to fully dry. It's almost like an oil paint.

 

[cloudborn]

I've used RnB for years and found that the best way to apply it is on a "dulled" or flat painted surface first. Rubbing on a smooth glossy surface doesn't work as well. The previous comments are correct about sealing with a clear coat...it will remove the metallic sheen. Depending on how thick your spraying the coats, it can even cause the RnB to run and streak. In some cases, that actually creates a interesting rustic appearance but requires another RnB layer for ultimate realism.

A good trick is to use a blow dryer to warm up the RnB after applying (be careful not to hold the dryer in one place too long) and then quickly cooled it down. That seemed to accelerate the bonding and minimized the flake removal most of the time. One process to try out...apply some RnB, let dry in a warm environment for a day, then spray on a dull coat, let dry for at least 8 hours and reapply the RnB...finally, use the blow dryer as mentioned above. This has provided me with great results and it adds a subtle realistic touch.

 

[BlindSquirrel]

What a coincidence...I just happened to make a test with silver R&B in search of a non-scuffing metallic silver. The hand buffed test still scuffed so I set it aside to test some top coats tomorrow.

After reading this thread, I thought "What about buffing this with the Dremel?". I ran right out, hooked up the Dremel and went at it. What results. The Silver is easily TWICE as bright and reflective... You can almost read in its reflection. AND it doesn't scuff... I don't think any top coating will be necessary.

I just ran over it with the buffing wheel until all buffing marks disappeared. I think I'll buy a full size wheel for the bigger pieces....

 

[hydin]

buff the living hell out of it.

seriously, when you feel your arms about to fall off, and you think its officially looking good, add another half hour of buffing.

once its "buffed", itll stay shiny/smooth and wont come off on your fingers.

chris

 

[mr.predicta]

I think Rub N Buff is a wax with fine metallic powder not a paint.
So it may be possible to use Future wax to seal it. I usually just rub the S#.t out of it.
I know when we get our plastic back from the chrome shop it will rub off if not sealed with crystal clear.
but I think that process uses a different material.
I like the hair dryer Idea I may try that since one of the things I noticed when buffing the stuff out is you have to generate heat , I think its Carnuba wax.
just a thought