Plokman
Active Member
Hey all after finally getting a scale to measure my resin pours to make sure I don't waste anything, took ages to calibrate since we don't keep quarters, nickels and pennies in enough quantities to add up to 100 grams. But I have now calibrated it and am preping to make another attempt at making the Amethyst pendant for my Stepmother's Birthday, But I came upon a slight little problem, the first mold I made of the crystal somehow pulled apart or something as it now has what looks like a bubble that wasn't there before.
My Silicone is a 1 to 1 mix and I'd rather not spill silicone on my scale or waste any of it, so my question is does most types of Silicone when wet and after it has cured weigh the same? I still have the bad mold and all I could simply put the it into the mold container, after telling it to not include the container with the Tare button and see how much it weighed.
But that is of course only if the silicone wet or dry has the same weight, I have a hunch (Not just in my back either) that the answer is obvious and I'm being stupid again but I can't afford to waste any more of the materials I have available now, as it stands I think I may be able to buy one more thing of Mold maker and my torch next month. Everything else goes on Christmas Shopping (In particular putting a lathe into Layaway for more wood working possibilities)
By the way does anyone know the hardness level of this kind of resin https://www.artresin.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiYr0-ICm3gIVBL7ACh2UAAIsEAAYASAAEgJ92_D_BwE if it's tough enough I may just have to use it till I am able to afford the Urethane ones I'm planing to use for my Lego casts (I can't help it Micro-Mark make great stuff and I'm not going to abandon them fully Resin or otherwise) Plus it can help preserve a few things I don't want degrading (Some old notes from my old home that are singed and very brittle) so yeah that does it for the Resin and Silicone now onto another subject I need more info on.
Ok for my Pottermore wand I'm making I want to have a inlay for the paterns on the handle and part of the shaft, Two are to be resin filled with gold and a Lapis resin fill in but the third I want to use Soldier to make it look like it's steel or Platinum inlay (Funny how most Metals are grey silver when fully processed with yellow and orange being the others, Why no blue metals and before someone cracks anodized aluminum I mean in nature. Unless I'm wro... babah back on track) and I tried to do it with a Woodburner/soldiering Iron but the stuff just balled up or clung to the tip not even dripping, so I did the sensible thing looked it up on Youtube found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuVnqoeZAaA
As can be seen he dripped the soldier with a blow torch into the pattern the sanded it, my question is what gauge of soldier is he using?! My father he uses wire thin gauge but he is a Electronics repair guy but I've never seen the likes of this in any shop or catalogue and the ones he was subscribed to covered more than just Electronic size grade. I would assume that this is used more in plumbing or sculpting, but yeah anyone know what kind of solder is being used and if I could get away with smaller gauges as long as I have a torch?
Thank you and take care hope I didn't ramble on again.
My Silicone is a 1 to 1 mix and I'd rather not spill silicone on my scale or waste any of it, so my question is does most types of Silicone when wet and after it has cured weigh the same? I still have the bad mold and all I could simply put the it into the mold container, after telling it to not include the container with the Tare button and see how much it weighed.
But that is of course only if the silicone wet or dry has the same weight, I have a hunch (Not just in my back either) that the answer is obvious and I'm being stupid again but I can't afford to waste any more of the materials I have available now, as it stands I think I may be able to buy one more thing of Mold maker and my torch next month. Everything else goes on Christmas Shopping (In particular putting a lathe into Layaway for more wood working possibilities)
By the way does anyone know the hardness level of this kind of resin https://www.artresin.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiYr0-ICm3gIVBL7ACh2UAAIsEAAYASAAEgJ92_D_BwE if it's tough enough I may just have to use it till I am able to afford the Urethane ones I'm planing to use for my Lego casts (I can't help it Micro-Mark make great stuff and I'm not going to abandon them fully Resin or otherwise) Plus it can help preserve a few things I don't want degrading (Some old notes from my old home that are singed and very brittle) so yeah that does it for the Resin and Silicone now onto another subject I need more info on.
Ok for my Pottermore wand I'm making I want to have a inlay for the paterns on the handle and part of the shaft, Two are to be resin filled with gold and a Lapis resin fill in but the third I want to use Soldier to make it look like it's steel or Platinum inlay (Funny how most Metals are grey silver when fully processed with yellow and orange being the others, Why no blue metals and before someone cracks anodized aluminum I mean in nature. Unless I'm wro... babah back on track) and I tried to do it with a Woodburner/soldiering Iron but the stuff just balled up or clung to the tip not even dripping, so I did the sensible thing looked it up on Youtube found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuVnqoeZAaA
As can be seen he dripped the soldier with a blow torch into the pattern the sanded it, my question is what gauge of soldier is he using?! My father he uses wire thin gauge but he is a Electronics repair guy but I've never seen the likes of this in any shop or catalogue and the ones he was subscribed to covered more than just Electronic size grade. I would assume that this is used more in plumbing or sculpting, but yeah anyone know what kind of solder is being used and if I could get away with smaller gauges as long as I have a torch?
Thank you and take care hope I didn't ramble on again.
