wolverine solo
Well-Known Member
mine arrived just a few minutes ago, cant wait to get started.:thumbsup
Sidkit Mal Gun Build Thread
- Thread starter DrMcoy
- Start date
Those look nice!
I've been planning on following this procedure, but have been too lazy to order the supplies...
http://www.sci-fire.com/how_to_wood_grain.htm
I've been planning on following this procedure, but have been too lazy to order the supplies...
http://www.sci-fire.com/how_to_wood_grain.htm
Kadajiroth
Sr Member
They look shiny, David!
I haven't done anything with my plastic grips, yet. I am just waiting it out for Wakal's grips.
I haven't done anything with my plastic grips, yet. I am just waiting it out for Wakal's grips.
Ok the trigger is the other detail thats often overlooked.
The Taurus which the mal gun was based off is, is a copy of a Smith and Wesson design........ S&W revolvers always have these nice case hardened/colored triggers and hammers that i really like the look of, so i decided to try to replicate that look on my Sid Trigger.
I started by polished it up really nice with a felt wheel on my Dremel, and then started applying the plum brown..... one light application at a time an then drying and rubbing it almost completly off with a paper towel until i had a pretty even durable copperish coloring.
Then i took a tiny ammount of Mothers aluminum Polish and started rubbing around the edges and a bit on the side flats until i obtained a marbled multi_colored look...... the pictures dont do it justice, but im fairly pleased iwth the way it turned out.
i clear coated it to protect it.
The Taurus which the mal gun was based off is, is a copy of a Smith and Wesson design........ S&W revolvers always have these nice case hardened/colored triggers and hammers that i really like the look of, so i decided to try to replicate that look on my Sid Trigger.
I started by polished it up really nice with a felt wheel on my Dremel, and then started applying the plum brown..... one light application at a time an then drying and rubbing it almost completly off with a paper towel until i had a pretty even durable copperish coloring.
Then i took a tiny ammount of Mothers aluminum Polish and started rubbing around the edges and a bit on the side flats until i obtained a marbled multi_colored look...... the pictures dont do it justice, but im fairly pleased iwth the way it turned out.
i clear coated it to protect it.
So today I used Boba Debt's finish technique - it worked out great! I'll semi-assemble it later and take some pictures. However, I'm doubtful as to the awesome durability he touted...at the very least, the outer Perma Blue layer seems to come off easily, even if the PS-11 finish doesn't. Should I try gun oil to seal it, or something?
Here's a quick snapshot of my semi-assembled pistol!
I'm very pleased with the way the finish turned out - it sort of looks like a heavily darkened copper. However, I am still concerned about the durability. When the pieces were loose before assembling, every time they touched each other they'd leave a small silver scratch. Even now, testing on inconspicuous places, a fingernail will scratch the finish. I tried oiling the gun, with no tangible effect.
I want this to be the kind of thing that I can pick up and play around with, or show to my friends, without being worried about ruining the finish. I wonder if it would be terrible to touch up the parts that have already been scratched, then put a matte clear-coat on it. However, I don't have an airbrush...I've got a bottle of matte brush-on stuff, which would probably leave too-obvious brush marks, or I could pick up a rattle-can of something useful.
I'm very pleased with the way the finish turned out - it sort of looks like a heavily darkened copper. However, I am still concerned about the durability. When the pieces were loose before assembling, every time they touched each other they'd leave a small silver scratch. Even now, testing on inconspicuous places, a fingernail will scratch the finish. I tried oiling the gun, with no tangible effect.
I want this to be the kind of thing that I can pick up and play around with, or show to my friends, without being worried about ruining the finish. I wonder if it would be terrible to touch up the parts that have already been scratched, then put a matte clear-coat on it. However, I don't have an airbrush...I've got a bottle of matte brush-on stuff, which would probably leave too-obvious brush marks, or I could pick up a rattle-can of something useful.
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Some thoughts:
If the oxidation is very "loose" (i.e. rubs off easily) it will affect the clear coats adhesion. Also, if there is any chemical residue or oil, the clear might not set. A regular rattlecan clear will not stand up to handling... but you should be able to get a 2-part automotive clear in a can. There's apparently a type of can with a "mix button" at the bottom.
Also.. be aware that a matte clear is both less durable than a glossy one and that it will kill any metallic sheen there is. I think it might be better to put on a glossy clear and then rub it down a little. (That's the method I used at any rate.)
If the oxidation is very "loose" (i.e. rubs off easily) it will affect the clear coats adhesion. Also, if there is any chemical residue or oil, the clear might not set. A regular rattlecan clear will not stand up to handling... but you should be able to get a 2-part automotive clear in a can. There's apparently a type of can with a "mix button" at the bottom.
Also.. be aware that a matte clear is both less durable than a glossy one and that it will kill any metallic sheen there is. I think it might be better to put on a glossy clear and then rub it down a little. (That's the method I used at any rate.)
DrMcoy
Sr Member
I've been touching up my scratches with the Plum Brown stuff. I don't think there is really any way around a few scratches getting on your pistol unless you put it in a case and don't touch it...although I imagine hitting it with a few coats of Krylon sealer might help a bit...I've been thinking about giving mine a shot of Krylon Super Gloss sealer -- but for now, I'm simply patching scartches or worn-down areas with the Plum Brown stuff.
Did your method "kill the metallic sheen" once you had roughed up the gloss, or is it still pretty convincing?
