Sidewinder
Sr Member
Here's the parts after a buffing with Brasso prior to chemical aging.
SAS
SAS
Sidkit Mal Gun Build Thread
- Thread starter DrMcoy
- Start date
Kadajiroth
Sr Member
Sidewinder
Sr Member
However, don't do what I just did and warm a part (before applying BCPB) with a blowtorch and melt it - GAAAAHHHHH!!!!
SAS
SAS
Sidewinder
Sr Member
Here are a couple more pics post chemical treatment.
I warmed the parts on a (food) hotplate first - still dodgy in terms of melting the parts - and then used the plumb brown. This gave an even meduim brown finish but not as dark as some areas seen on the prop. I then used Carr's Brass black, cold, which gives a much darker colour eventually going black if you leave it long enough (i didn't), I then rinsed and wiped down the parts which removed some of the loose smut from the carr's leaving this.
Left is flash right is no flash.
I'm going to cut off the back sight from the damaged area and remake the top rail with brass strip.
Will prob give a once over with brasso to shine corners etc. Not sure how or if i should seal it with something.
I warmed the parts on a (food) hotplate first - still dodgy in terms of melting the parts - and then used the plumb brown. This gave an even meduim brown finish but not as dark as some areas seen on the prop. I then used Carr's Brass black, cold, which gives a much darker colour eventually going black if you leave it long enough (i didn't), I then rinsed and wiped down the parts which removed some of the loose smut from the carr's leaving this.
Left is flash right is no flash.
I'm going to cut off the back sight from the damaged area and remake the top rail with brass strip.
Will prob give a once over with brasso to shine corners etc. Not sure how or if i should seal it with something.
Last edited:
Sidewinder
Sr Member
An assembled pic, grips 'textured' and undercoated black. Still need to sort the top rail as well (not shown).
(flash/no flash)
SAS
(flash/no flash)
SAS
Sidewinder
Sr Member
Gorgeous! :love
Kadajiroth
Sr Member
Seconded! Fantastic job.
Ditto!... or should that be 'Thirded'!?
PlanetLII
Well-Known Member
Sorry to dredge this ole' thread up from the depths :love
Did anyone else have what appeared to look like waterspots on their frame?
If so, how did you get rid of them?
I have now been sanding for what feels like an eternity and would like to know if there is a simpler way before my arms fall off. I am not bothered about the ones on the shroud, barrel etc, but I plan to leave the frame un-blued so a nice finish would be preferable.
Are these impurities in the metal?
Also, anyone actually use the Birchwood Casey perma blue and plum brown yet?
Is it durable?
Many thanks
Did anyone else have what appeared to look like waterspots on their frame?
If so, how did you get rid of them?
I have now been sanding for what feels like an eternity and would like to know if there is a simpler way before my arms fall off. I am not bothered about the ones on the shroud, barrel etc, but I plan to leave the frame un-blued so a nice finish would be preferable.
Are these impurities in the metal?
Also, anyone actually use the Birchwood Casey perma blue and plum brown yet?
Is it durable?
Many thanks
PlanetLII
Well-Known Member
Nigh on impossible. I just tried and they can't be seen due to the glare. I treid from all angles but they just didn't show.
They look like they are just below the surface which I know sounds weird because the metal is not see through but, that is how they look.
Mayne I am being just too picky. My wife says she can hardly see them :lol
Sidewinder
Sr Member
They might be pores in the metal.
SAS
SAS
Sidewinder
Sr Member
Just got a PM with Q's about what i did, thought i'd post response here 
I just cleaned the parts of any fash and major flaws, but left them otherwise as is. You can polish them first but the metal is porous and the more you polish the more minor flaws show up.
Find out from your electroplater what prep they do if any prior to plating.
Yes i used a brass bristle brush when i got them back as the plated finish was very matt and looked rubbish to be honest - that light dremelling brought out the shine though
It was for ease of use more than anything, brasso prob would do it but require more elbow grease.
I did use brasso after the dremel to give it an extra shine (then washed the parts, not sure if brasso leaves a residue that might affect the chem treatment)
I used Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown, dipping into the pot where possible, and cotton wool held with plastic tweezers soaked then wiped on for big bits.
I warmed the parts first using an electric hotplate (hostess trolley style)
This gave a light chocolatey brown colour.
HOWEVER be VERY careful how much you heat the parts as the recommended temp stated on the BCPB is close if not above the melting point of the metal! Found this out to my cost .
I only gave my parts 5-10 mins dipped before I gave up trying to make em darked with the BCPB, perhaps if you leave em in cold for hours(?) it will go darker?
However I had some Carr's Brass Black that i had tried before that gives a very dark black/brown finish - and it is a cold treatment, no need to warm parts. So I used CBB on all the parts, CBB blackens brass quickly but you will find a lot of this is just the smut that is given off in the reaction and wipes off when you rinse/wipe the parts in water. Repeated applications/ longer lengths of dip time will make this darker til its almost black (after rinsing).
This gave me the finish you see in the pics, I was aiming for the post/during filming look rather than the really dark new colour.
Note any surface features, rough areas etc. will most likely NOT be covered by the plating process. I personally didn't mind a bit of roughness here and there.
The end finish is durable for casual handling/pointing and saying 'bwooar' and is fingernail resistant. Metal edged objects will scratch to the brass or down to the parent metal if done hard enough, though such incidents if small can be retreated with BCPB or CBB.
SAS
I just cleaned the parts of any fash and major flaws, but left them otherwise as is. You can polish them first but the metal is porous and the more you polish the more minor flaws show up.
Find out from your electroplater what prep they do if any prior to plating.
Yes i used a brass bristle brush when i got them back as the plated finish was very matt and looked rubbish to be honest - that light dremelling brought out the shine though
It was for ease of use more than anything, brasso prob would do it but require more elbow grease.
I did use brasso after the dremel to give it an extra shine (then washed the parts, not sure if brasso leaves a residue that might affect the chem treatment)
I used Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown, dipping into the pot where possible, and cotton wool held with plastic tweezers soaked then wiped on for big bits.
I warmed the parts first using an electric hotplate (hostess trolley style)
This gave a light chocolatey brown colour.
HOWEVER be VERY careful how much you heat the parts as the recommended temp stated on the BCPB is close if not above the melting point of the metal! Found this out to my cost .
I only gave my parts 5-10 mins dipped before I gave up trying to make em darked with the BCPB, perhaps if you leave em in cold for hours(?) it will go darker?
However I had some Carr's Brass Black that i had tried before that gives a very dark black/brown finish - and it is a cold treatment, no need to warm parts. So I used CBB on all the parts, CBB blackens brass quickly but you will find a lot of this is just the smut that is given off in the reaction and wipes off when you rinse/wipe the parts in water. Repeated applications/ longer lengths of dip time will make this darker til its almost black (after rinsing).
This gave me the finish you see in the pics, I was aiming for the post/during filming look rather than the really dark new colour.
Note any surface features, rough areas etc. will most likely NOT be covered by the plating process. I personally didn't mind a bit of roughness here and there.
The end finish is durable for casual handling/pointing and saying 'bwooar' and is fingernail resistant. Metal edged objects will scratch to the brass or down to the parent metal if done hard enough, though such incidents if small can be retreated with BCPB or CBB.
SAS
PlanetLII
Well-Known Member
Well I finally finished sanding mine down and decided that I should look into plating.
I found a local plater who is going to plate the frame and trigger in Nickel and the rest in brass. I showed him a picture from the series guide book of what I was trying to achieve and he said that they also do a chemical aging process with would dirty up the brass then they remove the high points with a soft scouring sponge to reveal the brasss underneath.
They usually apply two coats of lacquer which leaves it shiny but he told me that if he did it only one it shouldn't shine but would still slow the tarnishing process.
And now for the best part.........for the price of £50:eek
I left him with the book and he said he was going to do it personally. He seemed generally interested which I took as a good sign. I suppose it makes a change from exhaust pipes etc.
I am a little worried that I have left the finishing touch to someone else, but I still hadn't figured out how to stop the aging process going the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown Muzzle Restorer route as it doesn't appear to seal the brass. This way I won't have to worry. I had though about using Renaissance Wax but the rubbing and buffing would probably have taken the BC off. Ihave my fingers well and truly crossed that he can pull it off.
As soon as I get it back next week and have finished building then I will post pics. If any of you people in England are still deciding on their finish want the details of the plater, drop me a pm. They are based in Letchworth, Hertfodshire.
I found a local plater who is going to plate the frame and trigger in Nickel and the rest in brass. I showed him a picture from the series guide book of what I was trying to achieve and he said that they also do a chemical aging process with would dirty up the brass then they remove the high points with a soft scouring sponge to reveal the brasss underneath.
They usually apply two coats of lacquer which leaves it shiny but he told me that if he did it only one it shouldn't shine but would still slow the tarnishing process.
And now for the best part.........for the price of £50:eek
I left him with the book and he said he was going to do it personally. He seemed generally interested which I took as a good sign. I suppose it makes a change from exhaust pipes etc.
I am a little worried that I have left the finishing touch to someone else, but I still hadn't figured out how to stop the aging process going the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown Muzzle Restorer route as it doesn't appear to seal the brass. This way I won't have to worry. I had though about using Renaissance Wax but the rubbing and buffing would probably have taken the BC off. Ihave my fingers well and truly crossed that he can pull it off.
As soon as I get it back next week and have finished building then I will post pics. If any of you people in England are still deciding on their finish want the details of the plater, drop me a pm. They are based in Letchworth, Hertfodshire.
PlanetLII
Well-Known Member
Just picked up my Mal pistol from the platers and all I can say is I couldn't have asked for a better job.
Considering the plater had never even seen a Mal pistol before he has done an absolutely excellent job based on the pics I supplied. He even tried to research it a bit more online for more reference photos to know where to take the chemical ageing off.
I will be posting pics later or possibly tomorrow if I lose the light before I get home.
Considering the plater had never even seen a Mal pistol before he has done an absolutely excellent job based on the pics I supplied. He even tried to research it a bit more online for more reference photos to know where to take the chemical ageing off.
I will be posting pics later or possibly tomorrow if I lose the light before I get home.
