Show off your TLJ Luke lightsaber!!(balance v4)

I cannot stand the design of this hilt (it's like they stretched the thing out lengthwise), but I printed one out, anyway.

Box is from TCSS.

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Later, I decided to print a new emitter flange, and fill the print lines a little more, it's not finished, yet.
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I cannot stand the design of this hilt (it's like they stretched the thing out lengthwise), but I printed one out, anyway.

Box is from TCSS.

View attachment 1018213 View attachment 1018214 View attachment 1018215 View attachment 1018216 View attachment 1018217 View attachment 1018218 View attachment 1018219 View attachment 1018220


Later, I decided to print a new emitter flange, and fill the print lines a little more, it's not finished, yet.View attachment 1018221

Nice Dann, I didn’t know you printed one! What is your filler of choice?

It really looks great, it’s amazing how smooth you make your cylinder shapes

It takes me forever to fill cylinder shaped prints.. I use old gift cards to apply the bondo..

Curious what you use for filler
 
Hey Danny, sorry I missed this!

So, for big projects, like my EE-3, I use Bondo. I'll use the spot putty sometimes on smaller things, as well.

But more often than not, I use Tamiya putty. I used all my grey putty on my Relby K-23, so lately I've been using the white stuff.

I also use Apoxie Sculpt for some situations. It's great for building up trigger guards.

I could swear I had bought some Milliput awhile back, but I cannot find it for the life of me! I really want to try some of the black and the silver grey Milliput.

Anyway, as for the smoothing-out of the printed cylinders, one word. LATHE! I'll put each part in, and start with 150 or 220 grit, then move up to 320, 400 and sometimes I'll go to 600, 800, steel wool or Scotchbrite, and I've got these polishing cloths that range from 3400 all the way to 12000. It all depends on the part for how far I take it. Lots of times I'll get up to 400, then paint, then polish.

My most secretest of weapons is Novus plastic polish/scratch remover. Shhhh;)

Now, all that said, if you look at the pic above, of the emitter faces, it's obvious I've been a little lazy with this particular project. There's no reason I shouldn't be able to get that thing smooth as glass.
 
THIS CREEPY UNCLE!!
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First off all joking aside, I am totally blown away with Roman Props new Balance v4! If anyone is wondering about the creepy uncle, Seths gave lukes green lightsaber in TLJ the nickname "the creepy uncle" and once he said that it has stuck with me! so from there on out i have always referred to this saber as just that! so thank you seth!


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I had forgotten my Balance V4 was once referred to as "Creepy Uncle"! :cool::p Great tutorial, Danny! (y)

Here are a few Balance V4'
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"Creepy Uncles" shipping later today.
 
I had forgotten my Balance V4 was once referred to as "Creepy Uncle"! :cool::p Great tutorial, Danny! (y)

Here are a few Balance V4' View attachment 1033455"Creepy Uncles" shipping later today.

Thanks! I now refer to it as the balance v4, though Seth was the one to come up with the nick name I really like it. But don’t want to confuse yours with someone else’s

I’m in the middle of FXing my balance, and once it’s done showing the upgrades ;)

That photo Looks great Roman!!
 
Alright. I'm waving this thread with a little bit of necromancy dust.

my "creepy uncle" isn't quite finished. Mainly the control box, but I have a question for those that have followed before me.

For those who've done the Balance or Lukyanov TLJ hilts... how did you dull the black anodizing? I am not using paint for my process but rather chemical and mechanical treatments... I know oven cleaner will remove anodizing but I don't want to remove it, just dull it some. Any ideas? Still oven cleaner but a quick treatment?

here is what I have so far:

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Hey Verity Cosplay ! You could try a little bit of ScotchBright pad or maybe some superfine steel wool to buff the shine off of the anodizing.

A cool way to do it would be with a little sand and dirt in a dampened rag or some cotton gloves and just grab it repeatedly until your handprint starts to effect the anodizing. That way you'd get a realistic pattern of wear.

Good Luck with whatever you choose!
 
Hey Verity Cosplay ! You could try a little bit of ScotchBright pad or maybe some superfine steel wool to buff the shine off of the anodizing.

A cool way to do it would be with a little sand and dirt in a dampened rag or some cotton gloves and just grab it repeatedly until your handprint starts to effect the anodizing. That way you'd get a realistic pattern of wear.

Good Luck with whatever you choose!

Thanks! Sadly I already tried mechanical abrasion with both scotch brite and steel wool and it didn't really do much other than lightly scuff it. I also didn't want to go too hard or too course grit as to remove it entirely.

Still hunting for the right treatment to dull it but not remove it.

I may try a shorter oven cleaner treatment on the male end of the body side Thread edge to see if that works.
 
Yup, matte clear would work

Can always buff the anodize with 0000 steel wool. Tape off the raw aluminum on the rings and cost the black with matte clear

;)
 
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