Serging without a Serger? Two methods I found.

[Sulla]

I have been looking for a good technique for my unfinished edges. I don't want to drop the coin on a serger (though I'd love to my wallet just can't support it right now for). I found two promising methods using a stitching technique and a specialized foot. I have not tried either of these methods yet.

Using an overcasting foot. I do have an overcasting foot, but I've never used it.

And a 'French Seam' or a 'French Feld Seam'. This could work for some of the more basic and strait seams, but perhaps not on something like setting a sleeve in an armseye.

What do you think?

 

[MattMunson]

Interesting, but still a far cry from an actual overlock stitch. I dunno man, I got my serger for like 120 bucks, brand new, and it's just amazing. If you find that you need an overlock stitch for LOTS of projects, it might be worth buying an entry level machine.

 

[Sulla]

Thanks Matt, I have given serious thought to buying one. I have two jumpsuits with undershirts to make, and at least two more in the future. Other than regular repairs, that's all I need a serger for. Still does not seem worth buying one, especially with my wife frowning at me every time I buy a new component for my expensive and massive 2' x 3' protoform vacuum forming machine...

Maybe I can find a good referb? I got my sewing machine referb for a very nice price... hmmm...

 

[the_batdemon]

It'll mimic an over lock stitch, but if you're careful, you can do that using the ziz zag stitch without a special foot. The thing I like about sergers is they cut the selvage.

 

[scruffyrebel]

I'm with you Sulla...I need a serger, just haven't dropped the money for one.

But it really is something that pays for itself even on one costume.

I can't stand looking at the unfinished edges on my costumes, and overlocking stitches and french seams - beautiful but too time-consuming for me - just don't cut it in comparison to an actual serged edge.

I know I need to bite bullet and just buy one, and with the projects you have coming out, it seems worth it to get one. Then at least if you ever do any other costumes in the future, you'll never have to worry about ugly edges again!

~Victoria

 

[MattMunson]

Victoria, I did not know you were a member here! how funny! I'm so out of touch. Be sure to come to the SoCal prop party if you are in town in March!

Anyhow, here's the serger I purchased a while back.
Amazon.com: Brother 1034D 3/4 Lay-In Thread Serger: Kitchen & Dining

Though I got mine from Wal-Mart when it was on sale. Purchased it online with free shipping. It's definitely an "entry level" machine, but for the work I am giving it, it's just perfect. It's also REALLY fast, so if you're used to a traditional sewing machine, a serger will really knock you on your butt. Great little machine, and the results you get are just stunning. Even a novice like myself can turn out really professional looking results.

 

[scruffyrebel]

Victoria, I did not know you were a member here! how funny! I'm so out of touch. Be sure to come to the SoCal prop party if you are in town in March!

Anyhow, here's the serger I purchased a while back.
Amazon.com: Brother 1034D 3/4 Lay-In Thread Serger: Kitchen & Dining

Though I got mine from Wal-Mart when it was on sale. Purchased it online with free shipping. It's definitely an "entry level" machine, but for the work I am giving it, it's just perfect. It's also REALLY fast, so if you're used to a traditional sewing machine, a serger will really knock you on your butt. Great little machine, and the results you get are just stunning. Even a novice like myself can turn out really professional looking results.

I'm always eyeing the sergers at Wal-Mart. Good price for a simple one.

And yeah, hey Matt! My bf and I joined sometime last year, but I almost never post...and then I didn't even check here for the past three months - I have a bad habit of always checking the Junkyard and wanting to buy things, so I ignored this place altogether so I wouldn't tempt myself XD

~Victoria

 

[MattMunson]

I hear you. The junkyard is definitely my undoing. No good. I need to get that entire section banned from my profile or something.

 

[mdb]

Before buying new machine first of all decide what kind of costumer you are By which I mean an overlocker is a wonderful tool but far from the "best" and only way to do things

Remember that the most astounding and amazing garments created tend to be done by hand, even now. As in with thread and hand sewing needle. Not only that but trims and fabric were woven by hand....

Check what your own machines are capable of and see how far you can push that.

A quick run down on what I use my machines for:

Industrial overlocker: bodysuits long seams, skirt seams, putting shell to lining for flat lined garments (ie all raw edges but not assembly).
Babylock overlocker: more bodysuits, "rolled" hemming of very fine fabrics, joining shell to lining for flatlining. And making tubes of fabric....
Essentially for seams in stretch fabrics and for very quickly finishing raw edges- for quick jobs.

Sewing machine with stretch stitch: piping for stretch and non stretch fabrics, fiddly curves in stretch fabrics and bodysuits, hemming stretch fabrics.
I usually use the triple stitch for stretch curves and corners in stretch fabrics. There are a few overcasting and overlocking stitches which is a fine alternative to an overlocker. It does not cut the raw edge which is an advantage but it it all sewn with just two threads which is a disadvantage when unpicking.

Hevy duty straight and zig zag stitch: all historical and non stretch fabrics.

I only got my first overlocker a few years back and I use it primarily for stretch and modern costuming only. Since getting them my bodysuit production has just become infinitely easier and faster.
I have an entry level Babylock. Partly chosen as it was half price and comparable to cheaper brands, partly because it is made to be easy to thread!

And a small note: the overlocker/serger is not about quality it is purely about speed. That is what they were developed for. To save time not make better A hand finished hem and seam allowance is time consuming but can be infinitely tidier. I recently hemmed my Mina skirt which is fully pleated. I used a slip stitch and you cannot see any of them. There is no good way to mimic that with a machine and certainly not with an overlocker


French seams are beautiful for sheer fabrics that have no strain I have used it on my Lizzy dress and for a chemise. I prefer flat felling for chemises though.

China/Hong Kong/Parisian hems use a fine and narrow silk binding on raw edges and looks amazing inside flat lined garments.

Flat felling is extremely strong and easily the best for chemises, jeans and any hard wearing garment.

VintageSewing.info
Amazing site with lots of techniques.
Also look on sewing machine sites as they often give examples of what stitches can be used for



And yes, refurbished is love Though older pre-computorised machines are easy peasy to fix yourself I know someone who has something like 20 industrial and home machines from the 19th and early 20thC and they are completely amazing. He has restored them himself too.

 

[glitterbomb]

everything mdb said.

it sounds like the OP is confusing seam finishes with the purpose of an overlocker. there are tons of seam finishes out there, all developed before we had sergers. each has a different purpose, depending on the type of fabric and the type of garment. a good basic sewing book will cover these.

that's different from needing an overlocker/serger to be able to sew knits and stretch fabrics, which is the primary use of a serger for most people. a serger will allow you to create seams that stretch with the fabrics, which is pretty much essential if you sew knits. (a straight stretch stitch on a sewing machine is just a triple stitch to prevent the thread from poping when the fabric stretches -- TOTALLY different than an overlock stitch.) A serger just happens to also finish edges and seams on woven materials, but that's the quick and dirty way of seam finishing. It's not really better than or preferable to traditional seam finishing, just a convenient option.

if you can only get one machine, get a sewing machine (consumer or industrial) because you can use it to construct just about anything. if you can afford both machines, then a serger is valuable as well.

 

[MattMunson]

Great post, MDB. Knew I could count on a fellow Kiwi for the straight dope on sergers

 

[Sulla]

Wow, thanks for all the awesome information everyone. I really appreciate the input.

Some more details on my current costuming needs:

I am making modern costumes whose extant examples show serged seam allowances and overlocked allowances.

Here are the fabrics I am using:

• A stretchy medium weight cotton-lycra
• A 6oz 4-stretch Spandex (92% cotton/8% spandex)
• A medium weight Poly-blend Gabardine
• Medium weight Denim

My machine: White 4040 (basically the previous generation 4042)

It looks like I have an a couple of overlock stitch settings on my machine (#'s 15 & 16 on the below diagram from the instruction booklet.) Hmm… never used it before; I wonder how it works?

*edit* It appears that overcasting is the 4040’s stitch setting for sewing up the edge of a single piece of light to heavy weight fabric (depending on the tension settings) to prevent fraying. While overlocking is intended to both prevent fraying and sewing your seam at the same time.

 

[scruffyrebel]

Thank you MDB for that lovely breakdown!

Really useful information for those of us that don't use more than the standard straight or zig-zag stitch settings on our machines >.>

I'm a fan of speed, as you mentioned for the serger. It takes me long enough to make a costume without worrying about making the edges look pretty, and a serger would make things so much more convenient and fast.

~Victoria