Limited Run RUN CLOSED * DL-44 ESB Blaster Machined Parts Set * RUN CLOSED

I really can't work on that until I have got most of the ESB parts shipped.

I need to ask vice about the resin scope bodies but right now I am trying to catch up for the 2 days I took off for having the go to day crew for recertification.

I only got a total of about 7 hours of sleep during those 2 days and there was no way could come home at 6pm and have enough wits to work on these orders, I barely had enough metal acuity to spend all day soldering micro circuits to keep that certification.




Any word on the resin scopes with the brass upgrades?
 
Can't speak for anyone else, but for me: get some damn sleep. I can wait a little longer to have it done by someone who isn't driving themselves crazy trying to finish it with 58383727216 other things going on in their day.
 
We may be overly passionate, obsessive and eager to throw our hard earned money into Star Wars props but we are definitely considerate.

Take your time. Get some well deserved sleep. We know it will be worth the wait!
 
Kit received and build almost finished. I need to go into deeper detail on the scratches and carbon scoring. Fantastic kit!!! Thanks to all the contributers and Boba Debt especially, for realising this project! Two thumbs up image.jpeg
 
The consensus is mixed between a blued real mauser vs a normal MGC with parts added vs an MGC + parts that was painted one color and anywhere in between...and then there's prop accuracy vs screen accurate vs idealized version. So, it kinda depends what route you want to go.

Flat black works for the base and satin black for the scope...satin seems to match pretty well to my real M19 scope anyways. I do dull it with fine sandpaper during weathering so maybe the flat would've been fine :lol.

Boba Debt suggested using a BBQ black that you heat up a few pages or so back. I'm attempting to blue my Denixes this time around(new Hoth one and redoing my Bespin, pics forthcoming), and that is a real task in and of itself.
 
I use Rustolium Ultra Heat BBQ Black which is flat for the base and then I use Rustolium Ultra Heat Black for the top coat because it has a semi gloss appearance.

Then I use a rag to burnish or polish the paint to get rid of the fresh look
 
thanks for the advice guys!! i'm trying to mirror the blaster han uses to shoot vader. i know it's possible both live fires were used, i just don't want to mess it up.




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The scopebracket would turn on the single bolt, so I locked the scopebracket in place with a springsteel pin. The hole is drilled through image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg the bracket, the spacer and the magwell-wall. The whole thing is really sturdy....doesnt move at all and the top disc covers up the pin. Now for the flashhider: Do you guys glue it to the barrel or fix it to the barrel in another manner? Does anyone simply leave it on there with the friktion created between the barrel and the flashhider?
 
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The scopebracket would turn on the single bolt, so I locked the scopebracket in place with a springsteel pin. The hole is drilled through View attachment 676293View attachment 676294View attachment 676295View attachment 676293View attachment 676294View attachment 676295 the bracket, the spacer and the magwell-wall. The whole thing is really sturdy....doesnt move at all and the top disc covers up the pin. Now for the flashhider: Do you guys glue it to the barrel or fix it to the barrel in another manner? Does anyone simply leave it on there with the traction created between the barrel and the flashhider?

i've seen a lot of guys just use hot glue to keep the barrel on.

i like your pin idea!


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The scopebracket would turn on the single bolt, so I locked the scopebracket in place with a springsteel pin. The hole is drilled through View attachment 676293View attachment 676294View attachment 676295View attachment 676293View attachment 676294View attachment 676295 the bracket, the spacer and the magwell-wall. The whole thing is really sturdy....doesnt move at all and the top disc covers up the pin. Now for the flashhider: Do you guys glue it to the barrel or fix it to the barrel in another manner? Does anyone simply leave it on there with the traction created between the barrel and the flashhider?

Nice work. I had that same idea, but I've found a way to tighten it down enough that it doesn't move.
 
My scopebracket was fastened tight until I started messing around with holstering and unholstering the piece. I cant help it, I need to play with these things lol! Anyways, the pin was the way to go for me.
image.jpeg
 
i've seen a lot of guys just use hot glue to keep the barrel on.

i like your pin idea!


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My scopebracket was fastened tight until I started messing around with holstering and unholstering the piece. I cant help it, I need to play with these things lol! Anyways, the pin was the way to go for me.



Hot glue is the best way to secure the flash hider.


I tried to pin a Bracket but it still shifted so if someone worked a a way that it doesn't please post.




BTW: The threaded hole for the scope bracket is not intended to be the locking mechanism

It is just to hold it temporarily while you get the nut on the threaded rod.

I use an allen wrench to break the threads on the mauser by turning the rod and then I hold the rod in place and tighten the nut until I think it going to snap the rod.
 
Hot glue is the best way to secure the flash hider.


I tried to pin a Bracket but it still shifted so if someone worked a a way that it doesn't please post.




BTW: The threaded hole for the scope bracket is not intended to be the locking mechanism

It is just to hold it temporarily while you get the nut on the threaded rod.

I use an allen wrench to break the threads on the mauser by turning the rod and then I hold the rod in place and tighten the nut until I think it going to snap the rod.

Did you pin it through the entire assembly, like i did and did you use a hollow springsteel pin with a larger diameter than the drilled hole? My scopebracket is rock steady now, I'm really happy with it. The nut you provided sits tight up against the inner wall of the magwell, so if this thing should come apart, I'd be very surprised.
 
Hot glue is the best way to secure the flash hider.


I tried to pin a Bracket but it still shifted so if someone worked a a way that it doesn't please post.




BTW: The threaded hole for the scope bracket is not intended to be the locking mechanism

It is just to hold it temporarily while you get the nut on the threaded rod.

I use an allen wrench to break the threads on the mauser by turning the rod and then I hold the rod in place and tighten the nut until I think it going to snap the rod.
This is where you place your pin, to make it a secure and steady assembly. The top disc will cover the springsteel pin.
View attachment 676379
 
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